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Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps.


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Old 10-21-2016, 11:57 AM   #1
DustinS
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Another V8 Swap (Now 2jz/DCT)

With the impending release of the Vorshlag Swap kit, I have strayed from my Twin Charged FA20 Plans and started putting together my list to put in a crate LS3 over winter. Simple plans of CNC Heads and a decent Cam at first, with a turbo down the road. Eventually looking at 600-700whp (eventual plans had I kept the FA20 as well)

Current List:

TSP Turnkey Forged LS3 - Still deciding on which to go with.
Improved Racing Baffled Front Sump oil pan swap kit
Vorshlag Stg.0 Swap kit (Brackets/mounts, Driveshaft, Long Tube Headers)
Vorshlag Custom T56 Magnum XL
Vorshlag Tilton Master cylinder/Slave cylinder setup
MRS Can Device
ACT Clutch kit w/ Lightweight Flywheel
Oil Cooler set-up
Assorted Fuel Fittings
Greddy Evo GT 3" Exhaust
Vibrant 18" Resonators

Planning on starting to order things Monday. I have flip flopped on what parts I am wanting to go with quite a bit. Changed between the LS3 and a LS7 four or five times now. So I am giving myself a bit more time to really think it over. Though I am almost positive I won't deviate from the current plan/parts list at this point.
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:47 PM   #2
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I love a good mod thread just as much as the next guy but if this is the route you wanna go why not just start with a corvette and go from there?
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:51 PM   #3
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I love a good mod thread just as much as the next guy but if this is the route you wanna go why not just start with a corvette and go from there?
Because I already own the FRS and I don't want a Corvette. I will be in the LS Swap for less money than I would the Twin Charge set-up and I will get almost the same powerband N/A. This also takes care of the poor transmission.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:01 PM   #4
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I guess LS swaps are cheaper then I thought as I would expect it to cost more to swap and get working properly then it does to just start out with a ls vet.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:08 PM   #5
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I guess LS swaps are cheaper then I thought as I would expect it to cost more to swap and get working properly then it does to just start out with a ls vet.
Normally. Yes. I wanted a broad power band with 500-600whp on the FA20. My plans were an Element Tuning Built FA20, Cosworth Supercharger, and GTX4088R. Should have netted around 500whp with a wide powerband, if not more. So my FA20 plan cost ALOT. They actually came up just about even, but being able to sell all my current FA20 parts brings the end total down.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:18 PM   #6
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I was sort of looking forward to where you went with the FA20.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:23 PM   #7
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I was sort of looking forward to where you went with the FA20.
+1 the engineer in me really wanted to see the bi-charge set-up documented properly. But the realist was glad it wasn't my money going for it.

Better choice in the end for LS swap for reliability I think. Watching all these build threads for when my motor goes.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:44 PM   #8
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I must admit I am torn as well, but the more I thought about it, the more difficult it was going to be to get it done completely right. There were a lot of variables that made the LS swap a much more solid choice.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:51 PM   #9
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Why go fresh crate motor? You could be cheaper off with a bottom end since you're changing a lot of the surrounding parts anyways.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:01 PM   #10
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Why go fresh crate motor? You could be cheaper off with a bottom end since you're changing a lot of the surrounding parts anyways.
From what I have priced out, It's about the same either way. If you have links/suggestions, please feel free to post.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:32 PM   #11
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https://www.texas-speed.com/c-3188-a...d-engines.aspx


I considered a stroker from them and they were super helpful. Otherwise, tick performance, TEA, BTR.... the list of lsx performance providers is a mile long.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:14 PM   #12
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I would like if you track every part price so i can figure out how much cost at the end. Considering this route as well when fa20 blow up. Also my concern are related to drive train, and the cost of custom job to fit it. Best wishes and good luck
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustinS View Post
With the impending release of the Vorshlag Swap kit, I have strayed from my Twin Charged FA20 Plans and started putting together my list to put in a crate LS3 over winter. Simple plans of CNC Heads and a decent Cam at first, with a turbo down the road. Eventually looking at 600-700whp (eventual plans had I kept the FA20 as well)

Current List:

GMPP Crate LS3 (430Hp version)
LS3 430 Controller kit
Fluidamper Crank Pulley
Canton Racing Front Sump Kit (Baffled Front sump oil pan to help with oiling issues)
Trick Flow Top End kit (Trick Flow CNC ported aftermarket casting heads, Dual valve spring, Ti retainers, stainless valves, 230/238 Cam)
COMP Cams Trunnion Upgrade Kit
Vorshlag Stg.0 Swap kit (Brackets/mounts, Driveshaft, Long Tube Headers)
Vorshlag Custom T56 Magnum XL
Vorshlag Tilton Master cylinder/Slave cylinder setup
MRS Can Device
ACT Clutch kit w/ Lightweight Flywheel
Oil Cooler set-up
Assorted Fuel Fittings
Greddy Evo GT 3" Exhaust
Vibrant 18" Resonators

Planning on starting to order things Monday. I have flip flopped on what parts I am wanting to go with quite a bit. Changed between the LS3 and a LS7 four or five times now. So I am giving myself a bit more time to really think it over. Though I am almost positive I won't deviate from the current plan/parts list at this point.
The cast aluminum block is decent. Consider a cast iron block for a small weight penalty. A built LS engine can achieve the numbers you wrote NA.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:53 PM   #14
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The cast aluminum block is decent. Consider a cast iron block for a small weight penalty. A built LS engine can achieve the numbers you wrote NA.


If he is keeping it strictly NA I don't think a cast iron block would be beneficial. The aluminum blocks are proven to add little weight to this chassis, and are durable enough for FI in the future.


600-700 NA is achievable, but will take more than you think to make that at the wheels and still be completely livable on the street.
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