Shuttering While Cornering Hard

[Robbie7c]

Sorry for such a late update. So heres a few things

I tried it when traction control off, no change.

It’s definitely not understeer as its only on the exit of the corner as soon as I get on the throttle and very clearly feels like it’s coming from the rear, it also stops as soon as I let off.

I’ll try rotating tires, thats a good idea. I also have snow tires, could throw them on and go hit the a corner and come back.

If I can completely rule out the tires, any tests I can do to see if its struts or bushings? Or is it just replace and hope for the best? Lol


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Robbie7c

Sorry for such a late update. So heres a few things

I tried it when traction control off, no change.

It’s definitely not understeer as its only on the exit of the corner as soon as I get on the throttle and very clearly feels like it’s coming from the rear, it also stops as soon as I let off.

I’ll try rotating tires, thats a good idea. I also have snow tires, could throw them on and go hit the a corner and come back.

If I can completely rule out the tires, any tests I can do to see if its struts or bushings? Or is it just replace and hope for the best? Lol

Serious question. When you say you turned off TC, was it with a quick push, or did you hold it down until both lights illuminate? Takes 3-5 seconds, I don't remember exactly.

[radroach]

@Robbie7c

If you think you're getting wheel hop when cornering and its causing the car to slow down, then that's probably what it is. Becomes more apparent when the car gets a lot of miles on it, gets some driveline slack from the transmission mount, diff mounts, and subframe mounts all wearing past 100,000 miles.

I had clutch chatter around slow corners and clunking driveline issues by about 100k miles. Also the tires would chirp for no reason when I gave it moderate gas around corners. And then I also had a couple instances where I felt the rear end twist or warp when I did a mighty peel out.

My fix for driveline slack, wheel hop, transmission-shifting problems, and slow body response when cornering was to put Perrin and Whiteline parts on it. 1) Positive Shift Kit, and 2) Positive Traction Kit really keeps the rear planted and stiff, at the expense of removing softness (ride quality) from the rear, it keeps so much traction that you'd have to be really trying to even chirp the tires taking a corner. It fixes low-speed driveline slack problems, especially when cornering in 3rd gear.

Another option to restore fresh factory drivability, is to buy an entire new or like-new subframe and differential cradle assembly, new transmission and engine mounts. And take care to refresh other things like driveshaft carrier bearing. You can get fresh parts from a wrecker / salvage car. Doing so makes for a good case for upgrading the differential to a 2017- diff.

[Robbie7c]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Serious question. When you say you turned off TC, was it with a quick push, or did you hold it down until both lights illuminate? Takes 3-5 seconds, I don't remember exactly.

Yeah I held it down until the two lights appeared, I’m very experienced in using that button


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Robbie7c

Yeah I held it down until the two lights appeared, I’m very experienced in using that button

The only other 'normal' shuddering I feel is when the diff locks up in a slow, tight corner like a three point turn. With that and VSC ruled out, I'm ready to agree that something isn't kosher.

Not particularly helpful outside of getting past the "it's normal" replies.

[Robbie7c]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

The only other 'normal' shuddering I feel is when the diff locks up in a slow, tight corner like a three point turn. With that and VSC ruled out, I'm ready to agree that something isn't kosher.

Not particularly helpful outside of getting past the "it's normal" replies.

Yeah fair enough, it’s definitely not normal, I’ve driven the car 130k and this only started happening in the last 3-4k I’m gonna try out my snowtires this weekend see what happens. I’ll give an update here once I’ve done that. If that doesn’t solve it then maybe shocks car has 220k on it so it’s anybodys guess at this point


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[Robbie7c]

Originally Posted by radroach

@Robbie7c

If you think you're getting wheel hop when cornering and its causing the car to slow down, then that's probably what it is. Becomes more apparent when the car gets a lot of miles on it, gets some driveline slack from the transmission mount, diff mounts, and subframe mounts all wearing past 100,000 miles.

I had clutch chatter around slow corners and clunking driveline issues by about 100k miles. Also the tires would chirp for no reason when I gave it moderate gas around corners. And then I also had a couple instances where I felt the rear end twist or warp when I did a mighty peel out.

My fix for driveline slack, wheel hop, transmission-shifting problems, and slow body response when cornering was to put Perrin and Whiteline parts on it. 1) Positive Shift Kit, and 2) Positive Traction Kit really keeps the rear planted and stiff, at the expense of removing softness (ride quality) from the rear, it keeps so much traction that you'd have to be really trying to even chirp the tires taking a corner. It fixes low-speed driveline slack problems, especially when cornering in 3rd gear.

Another option to restore fresh factory drivability, is to buy an entire new or like-new subframe and differential cradle assembly, new transmission and engine mounts. And take care to refresh other things like driveshaft carrier bearing. You can get fresh parts from a wrecker / salvage car. Doing so makes for a good case for upgrading the differential to a 2017- diff.

I totally missed this post last time around, thats interesting though, this could very much be what I’m experiencing being that it is a high mileage car. I kinda hope not would be much nicer to have a simpler fix. But worth considering anyway.

I’ve definitely not had it as bad as what you’ve explained, the car has acted normal other than the wheel hop, it’s more apparent around slower speed corners but i’ve felt it a bit in mid-high speed corners, just takes a bit more confidence to get it to that point lol


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[Robbie7c]

So I tried swapping tires on the weekend with no luck. I tried my snowtires on the back and putting front tires onto the back. Both ways it still shuttered.

One other interesting thing I just kind of connected the dots about, is that ever since this problem came about I’ve been struggling more than usual for rear end traction, especially in high speed corners, get on the gas and it gives you a flick of oversteer. I thought this was just my tires wearing out but honestly having a closer look at them, they’re not down to the wear bars yet so they should still have good traction in dry weather.

I’m really starting to think this has got to be shocks, what do you all think? It kinda just makes sense to me, might give that a try


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Robbie7c

I’m really starting to think this has got to be shocks, what do you all think? It kinda just makes sense to me, might give that a try

Is it equal in both directions? Dampers are tough for me because of their gradual decline. Any leaks?

[Robbie7c]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Is it equal in both directions? Dampers are tough for me because of their gradual decline. Any leaks?

I think all of the lower speed corners where I get the shuttering on my daily drive are left hand corners. All the right hand corners are higher speed but, I did step out sideways on the right high speed which was unusual. I’ll have to see if I can find a slow right hand corner.

I’m gonna take a look for leaks this weekend seei if I find anything. Any other way to tell if I’ve got a bad shock while I got the wheel off?


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[e_lunatic]

i feel like if your shocks were that worn out you would notice in other ways.
just throwing it out there, is it possible that this is in your head and you're so focused on it that you're noticing things that either have always been that way? or making it out to be worse than it is? you wouldn't be the first to do it and im not saying that the case but have you considered it?


Sounds like you need to get under the car and start checking some boxes to see what still works so you can eliminate it off the possibilities list

[Robbie7c]

Originally Posted by e_lunatic

i feel like if your shocks were that worn out you would notice in other ways.
just throwing it out there, is it possible that this is in your head and you're so focused on it that you're noticing things that either have always been that way? or making it out to be worse than it is? you wouldn't be the first to do it and im not saying that the case but have you considered it?


Sounds like you need to get under the car and start checking some boxes to see what still works so you can eliminate it off the possibilities list

As far as the traction goes, that could be in my head. But the shuttering is definitely a real issue it can be rather aggressive, if it were like that from new I probably would have gotten rid of the car cause it’s not at all pleasant.

Yeah I think this weekend I definitely need to see what I can find. Probably just start shaking things around see if I can feel anything loose, looks for shock leak, and see if I notice anything that seems abnormal


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[Robbie7c]

So I took a look under the car, nothing really feels loose, all the bushings feel good. Shocks don’t look like they’re leaking. Only spot I wasn’t sure of was upper control arm bushings I couldn’t really move without the pry bar. I suspect that they just have pressure on them with the car up in the air.

I’m a bit lost on what to do next


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[RZNT4R]

Have you even had the alignment checked?