Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[brzlegend]

There's plenty of videos on youtube of how to tig weld.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by brzlegend

There's plenty of videos on youtube of how to tig weld.

TIG welding is more of an art to make clean welds. It is a skill that takes time to develop, especially for aluminum. I can lay down some adequate beads that should hold, but won't look too pretty, yet I don't know if they will last.

Irregardless, thin gauge metal will still have a tendency to crack when heat stressed or when it sees a lot of vibrations and external forces. A butt weld, which is joining two ends tip to tip isn't terrible for thicker gauge metal like the type of thicker gauge metals that are used on factory exhaust manifold or turbo headers, but even these welds fail, irregardless of whether these were steel, MIG, machine welded or steel, TIG, hand welded. Type cracked, exhaust-manifold welds into a Google search, and you will see thick factory manifolds to thin quality or cheap headers and other components fracturing. Ace headers have cracked and eBay headers have cracked. The downpipe will see enough stress from the heat cycles, engine torque, exhaust movement and weight that I just want to minimize my risks.

Cracks don't always show up as CELs or allow someone to drive home without potentially compromising the car if there is a significant fracture, so that is another issue.

For all the reasons above, I would rather reinforce the joints with a better joint for an amateur TIG welder, which would be creating a slip end that stabilizes the two ends, so there is less stress on the joint, and then to do a penetrating lap weld with enough filler to create a butt weld too. The aluminum intercooler pipes are subject to more pressure than the exhaust, but will see far less heat. None of the pipes will be hard mounted or overly stressed with weight, so the risk is low, but I also will play it safe and shoot for longevity. There is little downside. The radius decrease is negligible. The benefit is less waste of time and material blowing holes in the pipes and stronger joints.

I'll be practicing some more beforehand, so I may find my welds are adequate enough without the slip piece.

[visbits]

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I finished my K24 swap with a lot of helpful insight from your posts and obv's the kpower kit last week. Currently fighting some dumb BS with the oil feed line on the turbo, mainly waiting on a banjo bolt restrictor from ATP that's taking forever to arrive.

Items unmentioned worth noting:

1. You'll want to remove the t-stat as without the large diameter 1" return going through the housing the t-stat never opens.
2. The honda alternator LAMP does not perform the same high/low states for charging as the Subaru did, I may just need to put a FET inline to show proper state or maybe just a resistor to 12v to float it up? Have not investigated.
3. You have to hammer the crap out of the tunnel to move the trans, make sure you do that before you mount anything in there.
4. I recommend you unbolt the front sway bar and chassis brackets so it drops down, this makes putting the engine in MUCH easier.. you'll have to do it assembled to the trans.
5. The JDM K24A uses the timing mark under the water pump, not the arrow.. this is critical for timing the engine and setting base ign timing.




Also waiting on a Radium catch can for the driver side and an overflow tank since the intercooler pipe occupies that space now. I chose the over the radiator route and with the 2.5" couplings it has lots of room, I wasn't excited to try snaking plumbing through the headlight/apron areas.


My car is a lot different than the KPower base setup, I used their bridge adapter but I mapped out the interface and re-terminated all the wiring onto an ECUMaster EMU Black. Below is a picture showing the CAN integration working, I had a check engine for the flex fuel sensor (unplugged) which is nice to see also functioning properly. I made my own engine harness as well, my car has Flex, IAT, CLT, OT, OP, DBW, 2 Wire knock, EBCS, VVT, VTEC, Alt, AC, Both Cams, CAM 1 mapped as exhaust (fixed) and CAM 2 mapped to Intake for VVT.


Happy to answer any questions, thanks a lot for your effort on documenting your swap.



Sorry for the

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by visbits

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I finished my K24 swap with a lot of helpful insight from your posts and obv's the kpower kit last week. Currently fighting some dumb BS with the oil feed line on the turbo, mainly waiting on a banjo bolt restrictor from ATP that's taking forever to arrive.

Items unmentioned worth noting:

1. You'll want to remove the t-stat as without the large diameter 1" return going through the housing the t-stat never opens.
2. The honda alternator LAMP does not perform the same high/low states for charging as the Subaru did, I may just need to put a FET inline to show proper state or maybe just a resistor to 12v to float it up? Have not investigated.
3. You have to hammer the crap out of the tunnel to move the trans, make sure you do that before you mount anything in there.
4. I recommend you unbolt the front sway bar and chassis brackets so it drops down, this makes putting the engine in MUCH easier.. you'll have to do it assembled to the trans.
5. The JDM K24A uses the timing mark under the water pump, not the arrow.. this is critical for timing the engine and setting base ign timing.




Also waiting on a Radium catch can for the driver side and an overflow tank since the intercooler pipe occupies that space now. I chose the over the radiator route and with the 2.5" couplings it has lots of room, I wasn't excited to try snaking plumbing through the headlight/apron areas.


My car is a lot different than the KPower base setup, I used their bridge adapter but I mapped out the interface and re-terminated all the wiring onto an ECUMaster EMU Black. Below is a picture showing the CAN integration working, I had a check engine for the flex fuel sensor (unplugged) which is nice to see also functioning properly. I made my own engine harness as well, my car has Flex, IAT, CLT, OT, OP, DBW, 2 Wire knock, EBCS, VVT, VTEC, Alt, AC, Both Cams, CAM 1 mapped as exhaust (fixed) and CAM 2 mapped to Intake for VVT.


Happy to answer any questions, thanks a lot for your effort on documenting your swap.



Sorry for the

Great looking setup. Feel free to add more commentary. If it helps the community and is on topic then I appreciate the input.

1. You are saying the coolant thermostat doesn’t open with the larger port blocked off using the Hybrid Racing plug? This doesn’t sound right only because I have seen no one mentioning this being an issue or needing to remove the thermostat. Did you just have trapped air? I feel like Kpower would have mentioned this in their instructions too.
2. Are you using the USDM alternator or the JDM one? I have both, but I converted to USDM. Do you know if that matters? I think the JDM one is smaller. I don’t know about the specs or issues you are running into.
3/4. Are you saying you didn’t hammer enough? Are you saying Kpower didn’t mention other areas that need to be hammered out? I have already hammered out the spot they mentioned on the trans tunnel. There is maybe an inch to an inch and a half to the corner that is remaining. I flattened the fuel line bracket hopefully enough. I didn’t hammer the header spot because I am running a turbo like you. Are there other spots that need hammering? I asked Kpower, and they said I could mount the engine and then attach the transmission after, but clearance is tight, so it would be harder, but it sounds like you are saying it is impossible, and it is hard enough with the trans attached that I should drop the sway bar and subframe.
5. I feel like I did my timing right, but you are making me second guess myself. I used the video. It is the same as the writeup below. My chain had dark links with obvious timing marks, so I don’t know exactly what is different from what you have. I didn’t see any marks under the JDM water pump. Do you have a picture? Do you have a link to a discussion on the subject that might expand on this topic?

https://www.k20a.org/threads/how-i-i...rmation.46559/

Very impressive work! Add a picture to the K-swap owners thread. I’ll add you to the owners list.

[visbits]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Great looking setup. Feel free to add more commentary. If it helps the community and is on topic then I appreciate the input.

1. You are saying the coolant thermostat doesn’t open with the larger port blocked off using the Hybrid Racing plug? This doesn’t sound right only because I have seen no one mentioning this being an issue or needing to remove the thermostat. Did you just have trapped air? I feel like Kpower would have mentioned this in their instructions too.

Correct, even bought a Mishi 65C one and it still won't open. I have both my turbo coolant and heater core returning into the t-stat housing, still stays shut and overheats (100C+)

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

2. Are you using the USDM alternator or the JDM one? I have both, but I converted to USDM. Do you know if that matters? I think the JDM one is smaller. I don’t know about the specs or issues you are running into.

USDM from 04 TSX.

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

3/4. Are you saying you didn’t hammer enough? Are you saying Kpower didn’t mention other areas that need to be hammered out? I have already hammered out the spot they mentioned on the trans tunnel. There is maybe an inch to an inch and a half to the corner that is remaining. I flattened the fuel line bracket hopefully enough. I didn’t hammer the header spot because I am running a turbo like you. Are there other spots that need hammering? I asked Kpower, and they said I could mount the engine and then attach the transmission after, but clearance is tight, so it would be harder, but it sounds like you are saying it is impossible, and it is hard enough with the trans attached that I should drop the sway bar and subframe.

My swap was in and car running before their guide became available, my swap parts came about 2 weeks ago. I'm pretty much serial 0000001 lol

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

5. I feel like I did my timing right, but you are making me second guess myself. I used the video. It is the same as the writeup below. My chain had dark links with obvious timing marks, so I don’t know exactly what is different from what you have. I didn’t see any marks under the JDM water pump. Do you have a picture? Do you have a link to a discussion on the subject that might expand on this topic?

If you used the colored chain links your mechanical timing is probably fine, use some extensions/screw drivers to find ACTUAL TDC in #1 and ensure the mark on your balancer and cover match.


My TDC is this mark on the JDM K24A, its under the water pump to the FAR RIGHT (facing engine) side of the cover.

[Irace86.2.0]

I laid down some nice line with the TIG welder. I then tried to just do some passes without filler on some practice tubing, and it went ok, but much harder. I added filler, and it was tough to maintain gap with 90 degrees to not overheat the metal. I’m sure I will learn one day, but I don’t have the time, materials or time for ordering potentially destroyed parts, so I might just hire a mobile welder or something. I tried laying passes with the spool gun on the MIG welder, but the splatter with MIG aluminum is just out of control, even with anti-splatter spray, and the beads on thin aluminum was less than ideal for boost, even if I cleaned them up. Most of my experience is with welding steel of all sizes with MIG, but aluminum is a different beast. For the thick bungs it was doable, but I’m throwing in the towel early for the IC piping. I might still do the exhaust. I’ve watched lots of videos, but at this point I can make more money working than paying someone to do it right, so I’ll do that and just keep practicing for future builds. If I wasn’t also in nursing school then I would have more time to practice on some blanks, but I just don’t have the time or much will left. I just want to get this done.

[visbits]

I've been tig welding for about 9 years for hobby and I'm just now getting to the point I'm not ashamed of my welds lol

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by visbits

Correct, even bought a Mishi 65C one and it still won't open. I have both my turbo coolant and heater core returning into the t-stat housing, still stays shut and overheats (100C+)

Weird. I know the K motors are a bitch to bleed. I have one of those radiator tall funnel systems. I feel like if this was a common issue or thing then it would be discussed along with the Hybrid racing plug. What have you seen from comments on other forums?

Originally Posted by visbits

USDM from 04 TSX.

Weird. Do you think this is managed in the Kpower harness and setup, since you went custom?

Originally Posted by visbits

My swap was in and car running before their guide became available, my swap parts came about 2 weeks ago. I'm pretty much serial 0000001 lol

So it sounds like I should be good with the hammering I have done following their guide, right?

Originally Posted by visbits

If you used the colored chain links your mechanical timing is probably fine, use some extensions/screw drivers to find ACTUAL TDC in #1 and ensure the mark on your balancer and cover match.

My TDC is this mark on the JDM K24A, its under the water pump to the FAR RIGHT (facing engine) side of the cover.

Thanks. So I first brought the engine to TDC, and then I did the gear change, and then I attached the chain and new tensioner. I only had to make small one tooth adjustments because nothing really moved, so I feel like I should be good. My crank has two alignment spots: the large arrow and the rectangle on the right like you mentioned, but the crank pulley wants to align itself to the dowel and only goes one way once reinstalling everything, so if the crank was setup tight then when the cover and pulley go on everything should be good. Pretty sure.

[DIY]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I laid down some nice line with the TIG welder. I then tried to just do some passes without filler on some practice tubing, and it went ok, but much harder. I added filler, and it was tough to maintain gap with 90 degrees to not overheat the metal. I’m sure I will learn one day, but I don’t have the time, materials or time for ordering potentially destroyed parts, so I might just hire a mobile welder or something. I tried laying passes with the spool gun on the MIG welder, but the splatter with MIG aluminum is just out of control, even with anti-splatter spray, and the beads on thin aluminum was less than ideal for boost, even if I cleaned them up. Most of my experience is with welding steel of all sizes with MIG, but aluminum is a different beast. For the thick bungs it was doable, but I’m throwing in the towel early for the IC piping. I might still do the exhaust. I’ve watched lots of videos, but at this point I can make more money working than paying someone to do it right, so I’ll do that and just keep practicing for future builds. If I wasn’t also in nursing school then I would have more time to practice on some blanks, but I just don’t have the time or much will left. I just want to get this done.

I welded bits of scrap together for 6 months before I even touched my car and that was mild steel. Starting with aluminium is certainly jumping in the deep end of the pool, especially if its thin wall.

[Irace86.2.0]

@visbits

Did you use the stock, Honda, plastic, IAT sensor, and if so then where do you mount it? Kpower uses a spot on the intake. K-tuned makes an adapter with a bung, and I figured I could get that and have it welded to the IC pipe before the throttle body.

https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Int...ter_p_554.html


Does the Kpower intake manifold have any NPT ports for running a boost signal for a gauge or anything? I see some ports under the manifold in the pictures.

[visbits]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

@visbits

Did you use the stock, Honda, plastic, IAT sensor, and if so then where do you mount it? Kpower uses a spot on the intake. K-tuned makes an adapter with a bung, and I figured I could get that and have it welded to the IC pipe before the throttle body.

https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Int...ter_p_554.html


Does the Kpower intake manifold have any NPT ports for running a boost signal for a gauge or anything? I see some ports under the manifold in the pictures.

No I used a GM fast response sensor and its in a 3/8 npt bung just after the intercooler behind the radiator in the front of my car, Also using a Bosch Motorsport 68mm DBW throttle.

Sensor: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/4172

K connectors: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/static.php/post/k24




I drilled holes in the intake manifold and tapped them to 1/8 npt to service FPR, ECU and BOV.

[Irace86.2.0]

Some of the Honda boys file down the plastic on the OEM Honda sensor, so it is faster acting.

I feel like that is the ideal placement for the sensor, so it reads the cooled air, but also gets airflow over the back of it for heat-soak reasons, yet I don’t think the Kpower harness is likely to reach. I’ll have to see what are my limitations when I the kit arrives.m

I know some Hondas have a brass threaded sensor, some have two bolts, and others are plastic held-in, and I don’t know if they are all compatible with Kpower’s harness and signal parameters. I’m sure it wouldn’t be too hard to change with Haltech, but I’m trying not to get too custom to reduce chances of issues.

[visbits]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Some of the Honda boys file down the plastic on the OEM Honda sensor, so it is faster acting.

I feel like that is the ideal placement for the sensor, so it reads the cooled air, but also gets airflow over the back of it for heat-soak reasons, yet I don’t think the Kpower harness is likely to reach. I’ll have to see what are my limitations when I the kit arrives.m

I know some Hondas have a brass threaded sensor, some have two bolts, and others are plastic held-in, and I don’t know if they are all compatible with Kpower’s harness and signal parameters. I’m sure it wouldn’t be too hard to change with Haltech, but I’m trying not to get too custom to reduce chances of issues.

Dude just cut the harness off where IAT is an put a 2 pin DTM connector and extend it.. lol

Scaling for the GM sensor is CAKE and probably a preset drop down in haltech. I would strongly recommend being less scared about making changes.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by visbits

Dude just cut the harness off where IAT is an put a 2 pin DTM connector and extend it.. lol

Scaling for the GM sensor is CAKE and probably a preset drop down in haltech. I would strongly recommend being less scared about making changes.

I already had bought the GM sensor, bung and clip I had figured what the hell; it would be better than the stock plastic piece.