Question on removing rear sway bar brackets

[norcalpb]

Sawzall, the answer to this thread was sawzall. Took the guy maybe 15 seconds per side. Hardly any sparks. Very pleased.

[norcalpb]

I can now confirm that everything bolts right up. Subframe bolt spacing seems to be the same between generations. I will get more pics and test results soon as it was getting late. One issue I ran into is the bar is really close to this random subframe piece. I’m not even sure what this piece is for but I wish I had it cut off. Maybe it won’t hit but we’ll see.

Same overall sway bar preload as before. While you can wiggle the assembly back and forth while it’s loose, there really isn’t any meaningful adjustment to be had.

[whataboutbob]

I think that random subframe piece is for headlight leveling hardware.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

I think that random subframe piece is for headlight leveling hardware.

I was thinking that too but even the 2017+ cars have this piece and they have their headlight adjuster mounted on the control arm itself. I believe on our pre facelifts the adjuster is further into the car. Will do some research on this though.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

I think that random subframe piece is for headlight leveling hardware.

Pretty sure you were right on the money. I learned the 13-16 cars don’t have the sensor but must’ve kept the mounting for it.

[jeepmor]

I may be missing something here, but why not just buy the opposing brand subframe or assembly with that all in place and swap it out. Last check on shop time rates, might be a good path considering subframes are only ~500 new.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by jeepmor

I may be missing something here, but why not just buy the opposing brand subframe or assembly with that all in place and swap it out. Last check on shop time rates, might be a good path considering subframes are only ~500 new.

Simply the cost of it all. I paid $90 for the 2022 sway bar bracket and an exhaust shop cut off my stock brackets for free. I also installed it myself and didn’t need a new alignment doing it this way.

When buying a brand new subframe, it’s important to remember that you need disconnect the multitude of controls arms as well as the driveshaft + brake lines + gas tank evap lines, remove the diff, and then transfer it all over to the new subframe. This would truly be an excellent time to replace worn control arms (namely those with ball joints) but that just adds even more cost. And I’d most likely need an alignment afterwards. I would’ve paid someone to do all of this as I don’t really have the room so it would’ve been $1k + easily.

Also for some reason it seems like the 2022 subframes are more expensive than the 13-20 subframes. Maybe it’s because less of them have been made so far.

Edit; for clarification, this 2022 bracket is not included with the 2022 rear subframe

[Turdinator]

Driving impressions?

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Driving impressions?

Oops forgot to post those here too:

"Just wanted to mention that I have successfully put the 2022 bar mount on my 2013. The biggest difference by far, as mentioned, is how quickly the bar responds to steering input. I took the car on a backroad last night and found that I needed to start my steering input later than expected, and once the car settled on fully on its left or right side, the car would turn very hard. Overall, this is a pretty awesome upgrade for ~$80. Extremely easy to install too, once the stock mounts are cut out of course.

I would say it should come like this from the factory, but it already does!"

Overall I still need some more time driving on it, preferably on a race track. Butit feels good, and is excellent knowing that I'm knowing longer drawing and quartering my Verus underbody panels.

[gpvecchi]

In my opinion, a simple bolt on bar will achieve the same results.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by gpvecchi

In my opinion, a simple bolt on bar will achieve the same results.

To get the same results you’d need metal subframe bushings which would make the ride pretty uncomfortable. On my car the sway bar is parallel with the chassis at all times. On your car the sway bar loses its parallel status every time your subframe compresses. In my opinion, considering the purpose of a sway bar, you’d want it mounted in the most rigid way possible.

A simple bolt on bar does nothing to prevent the subframe from moving, you are just reinforcing the bolts by connecting them to each other.

[NoHaveMSG]

Can confirm. Solid mount subframe is much more nvh.

[gpvecchi]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

To get the same results you’d need metal subframe bushings which would make the ride pretty uncomfortable. On my car the sway bar is parallel with the chassis at all times. On your car the sway bar loses its parallel status every time your subframe compresses. In my opinion, considering the purpose of a sway bar, you’d want it mounted in the most rigid way possible.

A simple bolt on bar does nothing to prevent the subframe from moving, you are just reinforcing the bolts by connecting them to each other.

Solid frame bushes has nothing to do with the new kind of support.
The new kind of support will free the movement of the bar a little more (but not that much, just the play allowed by subframe bushes), so the effect will be similar to a softer swaybar.
In facts, the GR86 that is more a drift car, retains the old setup.
To be verified, the opposite position of the bar, in my opinion, using the same links, will put the bar less parallel to the ground.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by gpvecchi

Solid frame bushes has nothing to do with the new kind of support.
The new kind of support will free the movement of the bar a little more (but not that much, just the play allowed by subframe bushes), so the effect will be similar to a softer swaybar.
In facts, the GR86 that is more a drift car, retains the old setup.
To be verified, the opposite position of the bar, in my opinion, using the same links, will put the bar less parallel to the ground.

I was thinking the new setup restricts the movement of the bar rather than freeing it up. I’m not sure if it makes the effective spring rate higher like poly bushings do or endlinks connecting to the strut vs the control arm. If anything it just adds a quicker response.

My thought process is that having the bar chassis mounted creates more leverage over the 2 rear control arms than a bar that moves with the same structure the control arms are attached to. With the old setup, the bar does indeed stay more parallel to the ground but I don’t see how important that is if the subframe bushings are compressed causing the car to lean.