Something is wrong S/C

[Smaay]

I have the Edelbrock S/C and the car has been running fine for almost a year. Well last week I got on it and it shuttered and the CEL flashed but no code was set.



Then the other day I had the same issue and then got a 0300 and 0301. I have 92k miles on the odometer so i finally installed the HKS sparkplugs. everything in the install was fine, but now the car run like absolute shit.



There is no power, its misfiring, and according to my gauges, it seems like the AF is not getting richer going into boost.



one thing that did happen is while turning a ratchet, I touched the positive battery terminal and fried the right side fuse link. The ECU was disconnected when this happened. I didnt realize I killed it until i went in and had no power. I moved that cable to the left side fuse link and got all my power back.


the spark plugs are gapped at .025





Nothing else was really touched in the install process.

[Irace86.2.0]

No codes now?

[soundman98]

install the oem spec spark plugs. the NGK's.

i did the same thing once with an older chrysler. it called for champions, i put in splitfires that i gapped to the factory spec. splitfire specifically said they would work with that motor. it barely ran, and wouldn't rev.

i re-did the job with champions, gapped as they should, and the car ran just as it was supposed to.

[Clutch Dog]

coppers too, if it matters

alot of companies will try to sell you iridium or platinum'

ive never had good results with platinum on modified cars.

also what heat range?

[soundman98]

i think the important thing is that while a supercharger was added, the overall ignition system is entirely stock. meaning that you need to treat the ignition system as a stock ignition system, and give it oem parts if you want it to work as it did before.

[Smaay]

Originally Posted by soundman98

i think the important thing is that while a supercharger was added, the overall ignition system is entirely stock. meaning that you need to treat the ignition system as a stock ignition system, and give it oem parts if you want it to work as it did before.

have you any experience on boosting these cars?

Originally Posted by soundman98

install the oem spec spark plugs. the NGK's.

i did the same thing once with an older chrysler. it called for champions, i put in splitfires that i gapped to the factory spec. splitfire specifically said they would work with that motor. it barely ran, and wouldn't rev.

i re-did the job with champions, gapped as they should, and the car ran just as it was supposed to.

this isnt a chrysler, I have been doing this a long time and I have done nothing i wouldnt do before

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

coppers too, if it matters

alot of companies will try to sell you iridium or platinum'

ive never had good results with platinum on modified cars.

also what heat range?

OEM are iridium and these are 1 step colder than OEM

[soundman98]

no, i don't do anything with boost. but the point still stands. you changed brands of plug, and now it runs like crap.

[Ultramaroon]

Iridium tipped plugs are easier on the coil packs. The higher breakdown voltage of regular plugs is hell on the more delicate, compact devices.


That's the main reason they exist.

[steve99]

Log misfire counts per cylinder , put some standard pligs vack in if its still getting misfire counts then its likely coil packs.


Misfire causes cel light to flash but doesnt log code. The cel doesnt flash till mosfire counts exceed a threshold. So you need a device to log mosfires lioe ecutk cable or techstream. Ecutek calls msfires roughness monitor

[Clutch Dog]

the one step colder might do it. esp if the supercharger was intended for the same heat range as OE.

[mswbrz]

What year is the ride ? If it’s a 2013-14 I would have changed the ignition coils with the plugs . That year model of Frs Brz is known to have the coils go bad in the 70k mile range .
First start with out with putting OE PLUGS IN from dealer, nothing fancy . If they don’t fix it then start with the next part being the coils .

However,Since you are boosted look for any vacuum leaks possible around the pcv filter area where it connects to the block or check under the manifold areas that may have had a hose pop off . Check for leaks everywhere there is a hose aswell.

A bad vacuum leak can make the car run funny from the minute you start it or it can run fine and then runny funny when the boost or rpms are high .
If the plugs don’t fix it perhaps get smoke test done to look for leaks .

[Irace86.2.0]

This has been discussed before, but there are people running 700whp with stock plugs.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by mswbrz

What year is the ride ? If it’s a 2013-14 I would have changed the ignition coils with the plugs . That year model of Frs Brz is known to have the coils go bad in the 70k mile range .
First start with out with putting OE PLUGS IN from dealer, nothing fancy . If they don’t fix it then start with the next part being the coils .

clearly, this can't be the problem because he already said his car and my experience in the same situation have nothing in common!

[Smaay]

I got a set of OEM plugs, ill put them in tomorrow. I got an email back from Edelbrock to check out the bypass actuator.



The car idles perfectly and cruises just fine. Its only WOT boost where its stumbling.