Total newb strips his oil pan

[Ashikabi]

Why isn't it being drilled and retapped? Oil pan sounds expensive. Oh well, you'll get the hang of it. I've twisted off many bolts and broken many sockets on bolts that wouldn't twist. It happens. Just never tighten steel fasteners(drain plug) too tightly in an aluminum part(oil pan) because aluminum threads aren't very strong

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Golevka

PS, the mechanic called and I stripped the oil pan so he ordered a new one which should arrive tomorrow. I wonder how hard the oil pan is to extract...

Like @go_a_way1 mentioned ....... 11 bolts to take out and a gasket to replace.

FYI ...... since you have a "history" of over tightening bolts () ...... if you ever decide to tighten the bolts on an oil pan ...... just snug them up and do a gentle 1/4 turn more.

Yep, they twist off real easy ...... which begs the question "how many crankcase pan (oil pan) bolts can you twist off and the pan still won't leak ..... ??

ANSWER: about every other one .... if you have a thick gasket and use lots of Permatex........

How do I know that ?...... I don't wanna talk about it ......


humfrz

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Why isn't it being drilled and retapped? ..........

Now, Ashikabi, you know that nobody "fixes" anything anymore ... they just throw new parts at it ...


humfrz

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Now, Ashikabi, you know that nobody "fixes" anything anymore ... they just throw new parts at it ...


humfrz

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Golevka

But yeah I think the 1/2" drive and the length of the torque wrench was part of the problem. I was able to get too much force on the plug. Oh well back to the drawing board.. Thanks for your feedback

That's part of your problem. You are using 1/2" drive on something that is only a 14mm bolt.

Absolute worst case scenario, I would've used no more than 3/8" (and even 1/4" drive if it was a super sensitive bolt so I don't accidentally overtorque it).

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Why isn't it being drilled and retapped? Oil pan sounds expensive.

List price is $120. Much easier to just put on a new one than to take off, clean, fix, and reassemble... especially if the mechanic guarantees their work.

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-031-01.html

[qqzj]

i can feel your pain ...

i started working on my cars after reading lots of online chats. One of the key insight is that a good torque wrench is a very expensive tool and needs to be frequently calibrated. so the cheap stuff we buy are not going to be useful, except for tightening lug nuts. for anything less than 40 lb ft, just hand tighten. a good rule i use is that i use a short 3/8 wrench with a short pipe. i use both when removing nuts and only use the short one when tightening. this way i won't strip a nut/bolt and i can always remove them later.

hope this helps.

[zberz]

A bad borrowed torque wrench bent the swingarm on the motorcycle I used to have. Invest in a good torque wrench or tighten by feel. Don't rely on a cheap torque wrench. Since then, I've bought a Precision Instruments torque wrench and it's worked well for me. I'm a fan of torquing to specs, but if you don't have a good wrench, go until it stops and then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Be extra careful if anything is aluminum.

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[zberz]

Like others have said, don't let it discourage you. You learned a valuable lesson on something that isn't super expensive. That's a win in my book.

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[chaoskaze]

Hey op it's the prefect chance for you to get fumoto valve. Change oil is easy with that!


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[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by mav1178

That's part of your problem. You are using 1/2" drive on something that is only a 14mm bolt.

Absolute worst case scenario, I would've used no more than 3/8" (and even 1/4" drive if it was a super sensitive bolt so I don't accidentally overtorque it).




List price is $120. Much easier to just put on a new one than to take off, clean, fix, and reassemble... especially if the mechanic guarantees their work.

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-031-01.html

I think this may be taking it a little far... the size of the driver does not determine your torque. Just makes it easier to over torque. I work exclusively with a 3/8 and 1/2 sockets because I've broken too many 1/4s to bother. Just be careful.

[Euro7R]

I've always went with the "hand tight" method with my oil changes, no leaks or issues. I can't imagine the drain plug over time suddenly loosening itself?

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

I think this may be taking it a little far... the size of the driver does not determine your torque. Just makes it easier to over torque.

Never said anything about the driver size determining the torque.

It does make it easier to overtorque, but the more important part is using the right tool for the right bolt. 1/2" is too much for a simple oil drain plug.

-alex

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Euro7R

I've always went with the "hand tight" method with my oil changes, no leaks or issues. I can't imagine the drain plug over time suddenly loosening itself?

If you can "crush" a crush washer on a drain plug with your bare hands ....... you must have milked a lot of cows as a kid .......


humfrz

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by tomaszjanczak

Was it a harbor freight torque wrench? I've had those that didn't click at all, or sometimes would slightly click. Garbage. Their 1/2" drive torque wrenches clicks well though.

The Tekton ones are very similar to that (purchased off amazon) I wouldn't doubt they are from a similar manufacturer