KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

I clearanced that spot and still rub on the rear section of the pan. I would hammer the whole edge of the subframe.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I clearanced that spot and still rub on the rear section of the pan. I would hammer the whole edge of the subframe.

I briefly tried that today, thing is strong as hell

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I briefly tried that today, thing is strong as hell

You need a big sledge hammer. If I had to do it again, I would have cut and welded a relief area.

[funkjaw]

Anyone get a P1300 Trigger Sync Error code?



Basically I went to start my car up after not driving it for a week and it was a pretty weak crank. After cranking for a bit I put a jump charger on it so I wouldn't kill the battery. Tried cranking some more, still wouldn't fire up. Then tried clear flood cranking it where you put the gas pedal to the floor and after some effort it fired up. Idle was super duper rough and I had to give it some gas to keep it alive but eventually it idled on it's own and started running normal.

This sprung up before some time ago and I swapped the two cam sensors around to see if it would fix it. But it did not. I am half thinking maybe I am flooding it from having a weak crank which is why clear flood trick works.... and maybe the error is just from having a weak battery while trying to crank and actually has nothing to do with my cam sensors? Ionno, any thoughts guys?

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Is it the same place on the other side too. I may as well create some clearance while the engine is still out.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Is it the same place on the other side too. I may as well create some clearance while the engine is still out.

Nah, other side is clean.

[RedReplicant]

I bring you two more issues today...

1. Some of the initial Miata necks were not threaded correctly on the 1/2" NPT outlet.

If yours is only threaded in this far the threads were cut wrong and it has probably been seeping.



2. I had a mis-shift a few weeks ago - the pressure plate came apart. I can count on a couple of hands the number of times I've mis-shifted a car in the last 20 years so feel free to chalk it up to skill issue but I got the car back together yesterday and found this:

Tearing stuff apart I found out that the two steel pins that go through the shift selector rod wallowed out the aluminum selector rod.

I M O - KPower tried to emulate the BMW DSSR / dual sheer selector rod (https://www.uucmotorwerks.com/DSSR/) but they didn't understand what made it actually work. The point is that the side to side motion of the shifter is transmitted from the shifter to the sides of the selector rod and from the selector rod to the transmission shift input... instead the load goes through the steel pin to the aluminum selector shaft.

BMW piece:


KPower piece:



They left a gap because the stock plastic bushings have an outer lip. That was a mistake.

[funkjaw]

What's wild is after you money shifted and broke your car, I did the same thing! Luckily in my case nothing actually broke (see video below, you can see how I screwed up by going into 3rd instead of 5th).

But you are right the shifting on this swap absolutely sucks balls. What can be done to make it better do you think? I definitely see your point about the slop and my car has the same exact slop....

[RedReplicant]

Oof, that could have ended worse.

I got 2nd instead of 4th at 7800-ish rpm, the over rev in the log was 9820rpm. One of the buttons that holds the friction surface of the pressure plate got ejected so the clutch pedal stuck down so I couldn't pull the car out of the over rev.

I've talked to a few people with the swap that've had it running for a while, they all have the same slop but haven't taken the shifter off to see if it is in the pins to shift selector rod. I think the selector rod design is flawed.

That said, on Friday I wrote an email to KPower outlining the issue and also overnighted another one that should be here this week... I don't have time to deal with a fix otherwise right now, the car just needs to survive 5 events over the next two months.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I bring you two more issues today...

1. Some of the initial Miata necks were not threaded correctly on the 1/2" NPT outlet.

If yours is only threaded in this far the threads were cut wrong and it has probably been seeping.

Oh fun, that's exactly what mine looks like. I remember thinking it didn't seem to thread in very far when I installed it. Guess I'll give KPwr a call.

Edit: Kpower confirmed the same issue and is going to send me a new coolant neck.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Oh fun, that's exactly what mine looks like. I remember thinking it didn't seem to threaded in far when I installed it. Guess I'll give KPwk a call.

Yea it sucks, I tried fixing mine with a 1/2 NPT tap and a bunch of thread sealant last week but it didn't work.

If your motor is already in the car then the "easy" way is to unbolt the transmission from the transmission mount and jack the transmission up. You'll want a short 6mm hex bit and a long flexy 1/4" ratchet. You'll probably want to pull the wiring harness out of the area and unbolt the clutch slave from the transmission.

[RedReplicant]

Since Redlined asked for pics of properly threaded, I figured other people might want them too.





(mm what is deburr)

[redlined600]

Cnc operator must have had a killer hangover that day.

[RedReplicant]

Got an email back from KPower, they basically said they're aware of some issues in the machining of the water outlet but they've resolved them as of this summer.

They also said that they're aware of the shifter selector rod wear and have seen it before. The retention of the stock bushings was an intentional decision and they're considering updating the design in the future.