KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

I would ask a tuner. Obviously the FA20 and other modern motors are in the 12+:1 on 91, but this is with direct injection. If you are ever considering boost then I would go lower, especially if you want or need to be on pump gas. E85 makes a huge difference, even with higher compression and boost. The Texas heat might make a difference too. It isn’t worth adding compression just to pull timing. I’m sure your tuner would know if a lot of timing needs to be pulled for a higher compression motor.

[ML]

My supercharger build is 9.5:1. Seems 11 or 10.5 maybe a good compromise setup between the boost and motor

[RedReplicant]

Cam choice is important with respect to fuel and static compression ratio. Agreed to talk to your tuner, hopefully they are a K person.

For what it is worth, the 09+ TSX is 11:1 stock, there are a lot of people that put those pistons (or the nippon racing equivalent) into the earlier motors. They are referred to as RL5.

[Dresj442]

Having issues with my AIM but will check it out today

[funkjaw]

Couple updates:

1. Raced my buddies FBO AP1 S2k last night (F20c). His car is a full track prepped time attack car (~2600lbs) and was tuned at the same place as my KRZ. We make very similar power; I have more torque, he has more revs (9k). All in all I pulled ahead a few car lengths by the end. This might be the first time in history a Gen 1 BRZ beat an S2k lol jk jk. (Sorry for the poor video quality, you can see his car on the left falling behind)

2. A/C line on the high side has always had a tiny leak, but it's gotten pretty bad lately. I emailed Kpower about it and they had no problem replacing the line - actually they just sent me the entire A/C package, new belt and all. So that was super cool of them. They were very responsive about the issue, and got the new A/C lines out the same day

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

2. A/C line on the high side has always had a tiny leak, but it's gotten pretty bad lately. I emailed Kpower about it and they had no problem replacing the line - actually they just sent me the entire A/C package, new belt and all. So that was super cool of them. They were very responsive about the issue, and got the new A/C lines out the same day

Interesting about the a/c line leak. I had a low side leak early on at the crimp and they replaced it. I still have a leak on the new one only it's a tiny amount at the valve. I've replaced the core multiple times without any positive effect. I may have to just get another new one at this point but waiting for the weather to cool off first.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Interesting about the a/c line leak. I had a low side leak early on at the crimp and they replaced it. I still have a leak on the new one only it's a tiny amount at the valve. I've replaced the core multiple times without any positive effect. I may have to just get another new one at this point but waiting for the weather to cool off first.

Initially my A/C wasn't working very well at all. I had the honda tuner shop look at it and they found while the compressor was turning on as it should, it wasn't providing much suction (this was a "tested good" compressor I got from a used part seller on eBay)

So I just went ahead and replaced the used compressor with this new compressor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The new compressor did the trick and the system worked pretty well for a few days but then the crimp on the high side line started leaking and got worse and worse over a few months. So a few days ago I replaced that line, gave it an evac/new charge (used 12oz of R134a) and it works flawless now, even better than when the used compressor was first swapped (I'm thinking there was some air in the system) - it now blows air at 35 degrees!

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Initially my A/C wasn't working very well at all. I had the honda tuner shop look at it and they found while the compressor was turning on as it should, it wasn't providing much suction (this was a "tested good" compressor I got from a used part seller on eBay)

So I just went ahead and replaced the used compressor with this new compressor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The new compressor did the trick and the system worked pretty well for a few days but then the crimp on the high side line started leaking and got worse and worse over a few months. So a few days ago I replaced that line, gave it an evac/new charge (used 12oz of R134a) and it works flawless now, even better than when the used compressor was first swapped (I'm thinking there was some air in the system) - it now blows air at 35 degrees!

I replaced the compressor as well after the first leak with a new GPD unit and a deslugger at the same time. It blows cold but not as good as I know it should. Whoever is doing their lines needs fired?

[captain awesome]

Oh, I also saw it mentioned on the FBook that the fuel gauge has been working with the recent NSP update. I updated the other evening and it's now way more accurate. Like doesn't just jump from full to half and then half to empty.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Oh, I also saw it mentioned on the FBook that the fuel gauge has been working with the recent NSP update. I updated the other evening and it's now way more accurate. Like doesn't just jump from full to half and then half to empty.

Are you on the 3.7.0 or whatever? I noticed an improvement in an older version and almost screwed myself trusting it.

Apparently the stock cluster uses input from the ABS unit (wheel speeds) and a fuel injected cc count from the ECU to calculate an estimated distance to empty and this is what was missing before.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Are you on the 3.7.0 or whatever? I noticed an improvement in an older version and almost screwed myself trusting it.

Apparently the stock cluster uses input from the ABS unit (wheel speeds) and a fuel injected cc count from the ECU to calculate an estimated distance to empty and this is what was missing before.

I don't recall which version it updated to but it's the most recent one that was available. Today I had a quarter tank showing on the dash, and only 9 gallons to top off which is the first I've had happen before. I haven't checked the MPG AVG that used to read way off the charts so I'll check that on the drive home and see if it seems more reasonable now.

[captain awesome]

Watched MPG average and MPG meter on the drive home. It’s accurate like factory now.

[Arthur-A]

Question to those who took the car to a racetrack or a canyon road after the swap. Since the car has a better weight distribution with K24, did you notice any improvements in cornering?

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by Arthur-A

Question to those who took the car to a racetrack or a canyon road after the swap. Since the car has a better weight distribution with K24, did you notice any improvements in cornering?

I regularly drive my car like a maniac on back roads and such and I can say it does handle better, but it's not so night and day like I was hoping. Probably because the baseline set originally is just so dang good.