Electric Power Steering (EPS) noisy

[ermax]

I can’t even get this damn column cover off. The service manual makes it look like there are some screws holding it on which are behind the steering wheel. So I guess I have to take the wheel off first. Your photos make it look like you left your wheel on so I’m confused.

[ermax]

Finally progress. This job is actually really easy. I will write it all up when I am done. Basically you remove the radio bezel and then the cluster hood/bezel. Then you have to turn the wheel 45 to the right and remove the screw holding the right side of the column cover. Then turn the wheel 45 to the left and remove the other screw. Then the column cover comes right off. Now you remove the lower cover where your knees are and then the metal reinforcement thing right behind it. Remove the bolt that is on the back side of the EPS which is near the brake switch. This bolt will only come out so far. Come back to that later. Now remove the two bolts that hold the column to the chassis. This will let you drop the whole column and then you can rotate it enough to get that back bolt the rest of the way out. After that you can drop it while rotating the entire EPS counter clockwise which then exposes the bolts to remove the motor. I then slid my seat forward enough to rest the unit on the seat so the cables aren’t pulled. Make sure to telescope the wheel all the way out first.

I didn’t remove any of the cables on the column. It sounds like a lot of work but it’s not bad.

My coupler was all shredded up so I’m feeling good that this will be the source or the rattle.

Now onto the trimming and reassembly. I will write up better instructions in the morning.

[ermax]

@HRTROB is our savior! It freaking worked. It’s a 100% fix. It’s like a whole new car now. Man I can’t thank Rob enough for discovering that this Hyundai coupler is nearly a perfect fit. Just like Rob I cut the nipples on one side but when I did a test fit it was too tight. So I cut the nipples off the other side and although the motor didn’t fit by hand it pulled up with out much effort on the bolts.

This project is actually damn easy once you figure out how to detach all the interior pieces. Again I will write this junk up in more detail when I get to a computer. The hardest part is getting the back bolt out (the one near the brake switch). Getting that bolt back in was even harder. You have to hold the unit by the motor to get enough leverage to rotate the whole unit until the bolt runs through and lines up with the flange nut. All total there were 5 small screws. 5 bolts and 2 nuts. Nothing on the wheel is disconnected. No need to worry about the alignment of the wheel because you never take it off.

So happy right now!





Some pictures of the original coupler here:
https://imgur.com/gallery/f7YXotA

You can see the original coupler is a hard plastic with a green rubber inside to reduce rattle. Once the rubber is gone the gear teeth rattle on the raw plastic. I guess there is some advantage to this design in that it never fully disintegrates. The Hyundai coupler is solid rubber so once it’s gone you aren’t left with metal to plastic but instead metal to metal.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by QuickieSilver143

Thanks bud, I went back read all that after I posted and saw what was going. I'm definitely in it for the win with you guys. Hoping this is something I will be able to handle. Seems like I should be able to though. I might go the opposite route he did though and buy a used one, rebuild with new bushing and then swap them so I'm not out my daily driver. I think I could swap them in a day. Then I will rebuild my original and try to sell and recoup some money

I wouldn’t even bother buying a used unit. Save the $150 the used unit costs. With instructions this job could be done in 30mins.

[Ultramaroon]

[HRTROB]

So glad to be able to help out @ermax! Thanks for confirming that the Hyundai bushing fixes the clunk! Even though I’m not a fan of Hyundai, I gotta give it to them for offering a TSB and selling the bushing separately.

I agree, with the Hyundai bushing confirmed to work, there’s no need to pick up a used EPS. Down time for the car will be the same, if not longer, if you have to swap EPS units. I paid $100 for mine but it came with the whole column assembly including the steering wheel, headlight and wiper switches, clock spring and shaft with joints so it wasn’t that bad. It sucks though for those who had to pay for a new EPS.

[QuickieSilver143]

Originally Posted by ermax

@HRTROB is our savior! It freaking worked. It’s a 100% fix. It’s like a whole new car now. Man I can’t thank Rob enough for discovering that this Hyundai coupler is nearly a perfect fit. Just like Rob I cut the nipples on one side but when I did a test fit it was too tight. So I cut the nipples off the other side and although the motor didn’t fit by hand it pulled up with out much effort on the bolts.

This project is actually damn easy once you figure out how to detach all the interior pieces. Again I will write this junk up in more detail when I get to a computer. The hardest part is getting the back bolt out (the one near the brake switch). Getting that bolt back in was even harder. You have to hold the unit by the motor to get enough leverage to rotate the whole unit until the bolt runs through and lines up with the flange nut. All total there were 5 small screws. 5 bolts and 2 nuts. Nothing on the wheel is disconnected. No need to worry about the alignment of the wheel because you never take it off.

So happy right now!





Some pictures of the original coupler here:
https://imgur.com/gallery/f7YXotA

You can see the original coupler is a hard plastic with a green rubber inside to reduce rattle. Once the rubber is gone the gear teeth rattle on the raw plastic. I guess there is some advantage to this design in that it never fully disintegrates. The Hyundai coupler is solid rubber so once it’s gone you aren’t left with metal to plastic but instead metal to metal.

Thank you guys so much, you have no idea how insane this makes so many of us. I will take your advice and go all in on the install and not iy another unit. I have 2 couplers coming on Amazon tomorrow. I have Sunday and Monday off and will be tearing into it then. Hope fully your write up will be in by Sunday afternoon and if not I think I should be able to handle it based on you guys other posts. I am so stoked to be able to get this fixed. Thank you so much @HRTROB AND @ermax

Saving grace of the community.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by QuickieSilver143

Thank you guys so much, you have no idea how insane this makes so many of us. I will take your advice and go all in on the install and not iy another unit. I have 2 couplers coming on Amazon tomorrow. I have Sunday and Monday off and will be tearing into it then. Hope fully your write up will be in by Sunday afternoon and if not I think I should be able to handle it based on you guys other posts. I am so stoked to be able to get this fixed. Thank you so much @HRTROB AND @ermax

Saving grace of the community.

For sure I will have more detailed instructions by then. I am completely swamped at work right now so it will probably have to wait until I get home. It's really not bad at all. It took me a while because I didn't want to rip away at plastic pieces and crack stuff. Once you know where to grab and pull and which direction to pull it all comes off real easy. Those are the sort of details I want to add.

[ermax]

Okay I posted directions here:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3199017

If anyone has any suggestions, corrections or needs a photo of something let me know. I wrote these directions from memory so I may have the socket sizes off.

[sato]

This thread might prove to be a lifesaver. Eager to try it myself! Even have a friend ask me about the EPS rattle who just bought FR-S, so here is to hoping it will spread out like the plague.

BTW, I read the Hyundai TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) 14-ST-002-1 which calls for PN 56315-2K000-FFF. However, the Amazon page states PN 56330-4Z000 is better than the TSB called part. Which one did people pick up?

[ermax]

Originally Posted by sato

This thread might prove to be a lifesaver. Eager to try it myself! Even have a friend ask me about the EPS rattle who just bought FR-S, so here is to hoping it will spread out like the plague.

BTW, I read the Hyundai TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) 14-ST-002-1 which calls for PN 56315-2K000-FFF. However, the Amazon page states PN 56330-4Z000 is better than the TSB called part. Which one did people pick up?

That’s a good question. Amazon has a bunch of them. I figured at $7 if it only lasts 50k miles it’s not a big deal. If it only lasts 2000 then I will probably research within they Hyundai community to see which one has the best compound.

As far as this spreading like wildfire. I’ve suspected for a while that a lot of people think they have noise in their suspension that is really in the EPS. I got my car used with ~83k and it didn’t rattle until I autoxed it for the first time one month into ownership. Took months of messing with my bumper, hood, etc before I settled on it being EPS. I was convinced it was coming from the passenger footwell until my son convened me it was conning from my footwell. I notice most people with this issue are from countries that I am assuming don’t have the greatest roads. The constant banging on the rack of bad roads or racing probably accelerates the wear. I also suspect there are a lot of people tracking cars that make noise that write it off as their aftermarket suspension making noise. So yeah I could see this fix becoming common. It would be cool if Toyota/Subaru created an improved part and TSB though.

[ermax]

Note to everyone. Rather than use a 3rd party site to host the instructions I started a new post in the DIY section and rewrote the instructions in BBCode. You can find the post here:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3199017

I also edited the link in my post above to avoid confusion.

[sato]

Originally Posted by ermax

That’s a good question. Amazon has a bunch of them. I figured at $7 if it only lasts 50k miles it’s not a big deal. If it only lasts 2000 then I will probably research within they Hyundai community to see which one has the best compound.

As far as this spreading like wildfire. I’ve suspected for a while that a lot of people think they have noise in their suspension that is really in the EPS. I got my car used with ~83k and it didn’t rattle until I autoxed it for the first time one month into ownership. Took months of messing with my bumper, hood, etc before I settled on it being EPS. I was convinced it was coming from the passenger footwell until my son convened me it was conning from my footwell. I notice most people with this issue are from countries that I am assuming don’t have the greatest roads. The constant banging on the rack of bad roads or racing probably accelerates the wear. I also suspect there are a lot of people tracking cars that make noise that write it off as their aftermarket suspension making noise. So yeah I could see this fix becoming common. It would be cool if Toyota/Subaru created an improved part and TSB though.

1) I don't have a son, but it's awesome that he got involved and nailed it. He should be very proud.

2) Have a feeling that Toyota might issue a TSB, but most likely never remotely admit or even acknowledge that Hyundai makes a ”superior product" (even it is from a subcontractor assembly).

Oh, and the day they admit fans or forums came up with the solution... Hahaha

3) This post is another reason why I fucking love this community!

[QuickieSilver143]

Originally Posted by sato

This thread might prove to be a lifesaver. Eager to try it myself! Even have a friend ask me about the EPS rattle who just bought FR-S, so here is to hoping it will spread out like the plague.

BTW, I read the Hyundai TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) 14-ST-002-1 which calls for PN 56315-2K000-FFF. However, the Amazon page states PN 56330-4Z000 is better than the TSB called part. Which one did people pick up?

The part I ordered from Amazon says "updated version" on the bag it came in