SCCA DST Setup Thread(2025)

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Driving most of the spring and summer on -4 camber is freaking awful. Since I switch tires in between events, my all-seasons are super twitchy with anything over -3.

This might be my highway problem in the wet. The car's fine in the dry and isn't bad at all even with bumps and weird road conditions with the camber. But even with 75%+ tread left in heavy downpours it's undriveable. I remember coming back from longer events last year in the rain I had to pull off and wait it out a lot. I'd be at 50mph max in a 70 zone with SUVs and trucks flying around me.

[spcmafia]

What front control arms are allowed for this class. I'm starting to think the OEM ones might be a little strained on -4 front camber.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

What front control arms are allowed for this class. I'm starting to think the OEM ones might be a little strained on -4 front camber.

Not a concern.


Also, 14.8.H.2 prohibits it anyway unless you want to give up camber bolts AND camber plates.


"On arm-and-strut (MacPherson/Chapman) suspensions, the lower
arms may be modified/replaced OR other methods of camber adjust-
ment as allowed by Sections 14.8.B, C, or F may be used, but NOT
both."

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

What front control arms are allowed for this class. I'm starting to think the OEM ones might be a little strained on -4 front camber.

My buddy has like 5° on OEM arms and it's fine.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Not a concern.


Also, 14.8.H.2 prohibits it anyway unless you want to give up camber bolts AND camber plates.


"On arm-and-strut (MacPherson/Chapman) suspensions, the lower
arms may be modified/replaced OR other methods of camber adjust-
ment as allowed by Sections 14.8.B, C, or F may be used, but NOT
both."

Well that sucks. I think it was either the strut bearing being a little dry or something because after I got the alignment it would make this metallic noise when turning the wheel fully in either direction. Mostly happened during colder days. Not so much now.

[spcmafia]

What rotors-pads are you guys running? This last event, now that I've been getting slightly better, I noticed that I wished my brake pedal had a little more modulation. I either broke too much or too little and there was a little bit of travel on the pedal to get the brake to engage.

Not only have I noticed this, but two co-drivers also did point it out.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

What rotors-pads are you guys running? This last event, now that I've been getting slightly better, I noticed that I wished my brake pedal had a little more modulation. I either broke too much or too little and there was a little bit of travel on the pedal to get the brake to engage.

Not only have I noticed this, but two co-drivers also did point it out.

For modulation, I really like my Ferodo DS2500's. I used to like Stoptech 'Sport' 309 pads on my other autocross cars because of the heavy initial bite, but as I got better at autocross, I learned I liked a pad that was very linear in modulation. The DS2500 is known for that. I just use the stock rotors with them. I found I was the guy braking too heavily into corners when I should be carrying more speed and that's even more apparent with these cars lacking power.

Oddly enough, we have a lot of people running fancy pads like the DS2500, but also many running crap NAPA/Duralast pads because ironically they give a similar feel. IMO, go with something like the DS2500 and not just some crap pad, personally.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

For modulation, I really like my Ferodo DS2500's. I used to like Stoptech 'Sport' 309 pads on my other autocross cars because of the heavy initial bite, but as I got better at autocross, I learned I liked a pad that was very linear in modulation. The DS2500 is known for that. I just use the stock rotors with them. I found I was the guy braking too heavily into corners when I should be carrying more speed and that's even more apparent with these cars lacking power.

Oddly enough, we have a lot of people running fancy pads like the DS2500, but also many running crap NAPA/Duralast pads because ironically they give a similar feel. IMO, go with something like the DS2500 and not just some crap pad, personally.

Thank you for the feedback! Im on Duralast, and they are okay I guess, is probably mostly my pad choice that is hurting. If I can, I will replace them to OEM, just sucks that Centric is now underwater.

[DocWalt]

Hawk HPX with stock rotors for now

[spcmafia]

So, learned a few things. When going to -4 camber on the front or more, it is imperative to get new control arms end links, adjustable if possible. I was running the Perrin Polyurethane ones, and unless I had them on wrong, the bolt that connects to the strut hole was sticking inward way too much, causing the bolt to scratch against the firewall and making a horrible screech sound.

Ordered a set from Racecomp Engineering (Shoutout to Myles) and their adjustable front end links are perfect. Did take some finessing on getting the proper height which has to be less than 230mm (9 inches or so) between the sway bar hole and the strut.

Another thing to add to this is the type of sway bar. I have a Perrin 22mm one and the geometry is a little different. Hard to explain but in any case, if you are planning on adding camber, adjustable end-links are a must, especially ones that don't risk on hitting the firewall.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

So, learned a few things. When going to -4 camber on the front or more, it is imperative to get new control arms end links, adjustable if possible. I was running the Perrin Polyurethane ones, and unless I had them on wrong, the bolt that connects to the strut hole was sticking inward way too much, causing the bolt to scratch against the firewall and making a horrible screech sound.

Ditto. Not really sure if it's the "firewall", but the chassis. Those endlinks served me well for a good ~75+ autocross events in CS/DS. The bushings are great in them. However, they're wide/thick, so when you move the strut/coilover assembly inward, it rubbed on the chassis a lot for me at -4 degrees.

Basically you need "low profile" endlinks, that have thinner bushings or rational areas (for lack of a better term here). Ironically the stock endlinks fix this specfic issue, but then you're left with too long of an endlink for how low the car is sitting now - putting more strain on the swaybar, activating it when it shouldn't.

I went with some cheap-ish, but adjustable endlinks that have similar bushings as the stock ones. Almost look stock except they're threaded. The RCE ones are great too, just expensive.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

Ditto. Not really sure if it's the "firewall", but the chassis. Those endlinks served me well for a good ~75+ autocross events in CS/DS. The bushings are great in them. However, they're wide/thick, so when you move the strut/coilover assembly inward, it rubbed on the chassis a lot for me at -4 degrees.

Basically you need "low profile" endlinks, that have thinner bushings or rational areas (for lack of a better term here). Ironically the stock endlinks fix this specfic issue, but then you're left with too long of an endlink for how low the car is sitting now - putting more strain on the swaybar, activating it when it shouldn't.

I went with some cheap-ish, but adjustable endlinks that have similar bushings as the stock ones. Almost look stock except they're threaded. The RCE ones are great too, just expensive.

Right..right. I don't know why I kept calling it the fire wall lol. 100% to everything you said.


Car does handle a little different now, is like the sensitivity was increased and I have to correct the steering input mid way on a turn because of how the sway behavior of the car has changed.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Car does handle a little different now, is like the sensitivity was increased and I have to correct the steering input mid way on a turn because of how the sway behavior of the car has changed.

Not sure how you did yours, but I put mine up on concrete blocks by the wheels/tires enough to slide my 145lb frame under it. Then lined up the endlink so it just slid into the swaybar mounting holes. One side was a good 1/2" or something different than the other if I remember correctly - which was odd to me.

However, once it was all done, I noticed at autocross specifically the car was just 'better'. Like more predictable, event, or something like that. Might be the sensitivity thing you're saying. Either way, it helped and I was surprised it made a difference enough to feel.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

Not sure how you did yours, but I put mine up on concrete blocks by the wheels/tires enough to slide my 145lb frame under it. Then lined up the endlink so it just slid into the swaybar mounting holes. One side was a good 1/2" or something different than the other if I remember correctly - which was odd to me.

However, once it was all done, I noticed at autocross specifically the car was just 'better'. Like more predictable, event, or something like that. Might be the sensitivity thing you're saying. Either way, it helped and I was surprised it made a difference enough to feel.

Essentially. I verified yesterday during my autox event. The car was a lot easier to predict and correct mid-way thru a power slide out of a gate.

Just sucks that 2nd gear tops off at around 50mph lol. Certainly hurt in areas where I could've carried more speed.