07-22-2022, 12:39 PM | #4215 |
Softer springs require more preload for a given ride height, which takes up more spring length. But you also need to be sure that you have enough spring travel for the amount of bump travel that you have at your ride height.
And yes, nothing in between 170 and 200 mm from KW springs. - Andrew |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Tatsu333 (07-22-2022) |
08-02-2022, 10:57 PM | #4216 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Drives: BRZ 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 134
Thanks: 6
Thanked 108 Times in 53 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Recommendations on chassis/bushings
Good day,
I would appreciate some insight to help to plan the stage of evolution of my brz set-up, based on my specific needs. My turbo 13 BRZ is my all year daily driver including in very snowy canadian winters, however I do use it for about 5 HPDE days a year. As my driving skills progress over the last few years, Next year I plan to replace my aging stock suspension with the RCE Superstreet 1 coilovers, and at the same time move up from my PS4S to Nitto NT01 tires for dry track time. My current alignement has -1.9 neg camber in the front using camber bolts and stock -1.2 neg camber in the back. With the added stiffness of the RCE SS1 and higher tire grip levels, I was wondering if it would make sense to replace some of the stock bushings for stiffer ones in order to keep a balanced set-up, or if I should stay with stock bushings. I do use my car for long rides so would need to keep it civilized (it’s not a race car) from an NVH standpoint, but would be ok to make some compromises to help the car behave well on track and have a set-up that is well balanced. Also since I do drive in the deep snow in winter my goal is to limit the drop of the SS1 to no more than 1inch from stock. Any feedback would be appreciated, Thanks |
08-03-2022, 10:57 AM | #4217 |
For your 9 year old daily driver I would definitely inspect your bushings. Even from a non-performance standpoint there is likely some wear and they could be due for replacement.
You can replace with new and fresh OEM or switch to something firmer. I think for your uses new OEM is totally fine. Or add a few easy aftermarket pieces like the rear diff and subframe bushing inserts. Do you have any adjustable arms or plan to add them? A 1 inch drop is no problem. - Andrew |
|
08-03-2022, 09:32 PM | #4218 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Drives: BRZ 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 134
Thanks: 6
Thanked 108 Times in 53 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Indeed, Actually the car is inspected before every hpde event. I failed to mention that the rear diff bushing was due last year and we did replace with an aftermarket insert on top the a new OEM one that made it a bit stiffer but not too much, that worked well. Also Years ago when I went forced induction we added the transmission insert as well, which really help smooth gear change due to the extra torque. I have no plan to add adjustable arms at the moment. Normally when something is due I look for opportunities to upgrade at the same time, or if there is clearly a performance issue I want to fix, and incrementally build things like that. So something I would consider if parts are due to be changed. The rear subframe bushing appears to be a fairly simple to install, so I’ll dig into that more and look to put that on the candidate list for next season…. Regarding the drop, I saw the instructions and feedback on the SS1 said that the optimum drop was between 1 and 1.5inch, so that’s why I was planning on doing the “minimum optimal” drop, to minimize having the car clearance issues in daily driving. One option could be to rise the suspension for the winter, but I was trying to shoot for a happy medium that would minimize/avoir the need to do two alignments per year, vice one in the spring. Maybe the trade-offs is not worth it however and I’d be better offer with another one in the fall. |
|
08-10-2022, 10:06 PM | #4219 |
A.K.A. Starlord
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: 2015 Series.Blue
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,842
Thanks: 845
Thanked 2,099 Times in 834 Posts
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
|
Here's an interesting one. I tried spreading a tiny bit of silicone grease I had laying around on the coils, but it didn't seem to help any? Not sure why they're sticking, but both fronts are doing it!
EDIT: Someone suggested I flip the springs to place the helper at the bottom. It hadn't occurred to me to flip them... but now that I think about it... I wonder if the lip on the top perch (the silver part from my Raceseng camber plates) is tall enough that it's wedging against the lip on the "mid-perch" that separates the main spring from the helper spring? Maybe under full load the two are wedging inside/outside of each other, and combined with the helper spring, forming a tasty perch lip sammich. Maybe I just need to try shaving down the lip on both pieces slightly. I'll need to take a closer look and see if the two are tall enough to interfere when the helper is fully-compressed. I suppose flipping the springs around would also have the same effect by separating those two collars so their lips can't interfere at all. Assuming that is indeed the issue.
__________________
.
Check out my blog, read all about my BRZ adventures, and oogle my sweet cell-phone photos! You can also find me on Instagram, and on Facebook. Last edited by Stang70Fastback; 08-11-2022 at 02:22 PM. |
08-12-2022, 01:43 PM | #4220 |
A.K.A. Starlord
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: 2015 Series.Blue
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,842
Thanks: 845
Thanked 2,099 Times in 834 Posts
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
|
So as a follow-up to my previous post, I tried flipping the springs around, but then observed that the helper spring seat would still interfere with the collar on the BOTTOM of the coilover... and it also placed that seat right at the edge of the shock body, which I wasn't a fan of.
SO, I grapped some HDPE sheets I had lying around, and machined a pair of spacers for each side. Pressed them onto the top hats, and effectively reduced the height of the lip enough to eliminate the interference. Just had to lower my coilovers by the same amount as the thickness of the spacers. Still not sure why I'm seemingly the only one with this issue, but at least it's resolved! We shall see how the HDPE holds up, but I can always machine more out of ABS or Nylon or even Aluminum if needed.
__________________
.
Check out my blog, read all about my BRZ adventures, and oogle my sweet cell-phone photos! You can also find me on Instagram, and on Facebook. |
08-13-2022, 06:38 PM | #4221 |
Sorry missed this...and whoa, never seen that before! Send me a PM with your email.
- Andrew |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Stang70Fastback (08-13-2022) |
08-20-2022, 08:41 PM | #4222 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Drives: Brz
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
So. Much. Reading LOL
I think i have a goal in mind here but some insight could be helpful Use - weekend driving, sometimes the odd service call lol and amateur track use 3-6 times a year, hopefully more. Currently set up - stock car(2015) and Oem tires(2014), pads and fluid are toast, tires are feeling like hockey pucks. Brake fluid, pads/rotors and tires all needed. Since new tires are needed, i figure this is the time to look into upgrading to build around the new tires. The end goal in a few years or so is ideally to run 200 TW 245s on 17x9s with something along the lines of the CSG spec Tien flex A or RCE super street 1 and the supporting suspension components. What’s the most efficient way to build to that from stock, without ruining the car and buying parts twice? If even possible I suppose could I get away with 17x9s with a 245section and less aggressive 300 TW tire, alignment, crash bolts, and LCAs without messing up the grip and suspension balance? Or best to stick stock tire size, 200 tw, alignment -2to-2.25F and -1.7to-2.0R, crash bolts, LCAs until the dampers are affordable to do all at once? |
08-24-2022, 01:15 PM | #4223 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Drives: FRS
Location: Chiraq
Posts: 304
Thanks: 79
Thanked 54 Times in 50 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
|
08-24-2022, 03:03 PM | #4224 | |
Purist
Join Date: Oct 2016
Drives: 2013 FRS - Hot Lava
Location: Milwaukee WI
Posts: 446
Thanks: 37
Thanked 228 Times in 135 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
As for the maintenance stuff, do that first as the budget allows. Find a set of daily tires for the stock rims and replace your brakes.
__________________
WTB: Everything Verus
RaceComp SS-1, Complete SuperPro bushings, TR Motorsport FF10 17x9 +45, GruppeS UEL, HKS Hi-Power V2, OFT(93/E85) |
|
08-24-2022, 08:41 PM | #4225 | |
Quote:
- Andrew |
||
08-24-2022, 08:45 PM | #4226 | |
Quote:
- Andrew |
||
08-30-2022, 06:41 AM | #4227 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Drives: BRZ (in near future)
Location: Indonesia
Posts: 37
Thanks: 9
Thanked 9 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
|
08-31-2022, 11:12 PM | #4228 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Drives: 2016 Subaru BRZ WRB
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Hi everyone. I have a 2016 BRZ (32k miles) that I started tracking this year, and I'm in need of some advice. Current suspension is stock aside from camber bolts up front. I seem to have made a mistake putting Falken RT615K+ on the car for track duty because high speed corners introduce a lot of body roll. I didn't have that much of an issue on old BFG UHPs at Putnam Park...At Mid Ohio (club layout with the chicane before the Keyhole), the body roll wasn't confidence inspiring and made me lift more than I probably needed to. I don't commute, so when I do drive, it is for fun or for a quick errand. I won't drive this car in the winter. I'm looking for something that isn't going to need endless tweaking but can handle track duty and a backroad drive. Roads around me are decent but occasionally bumpy enough to upset the car if I'm pushing too hard.
Here are the options I'm thinking about: 1. Lowering springs on stock struts and mounts (RCE Yellow?). 2. RCE Yellow + Bilstein B6 + Pedders top mounts (almost decent coilover money) 3. RCE Superstreet or something along those lines. I'd like to hear your thoughts on what I should do at this point. I have one more track day planned for September. Next year I plan to do at least 5 track days. Thanks, y'all! Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Air Suspension Discussion Thread - Let's Get Nerdy | Andrew@ORT | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 174 | 02-13-2016 04:17 PM |
RallySport Directs Everything Suspension thread!! | RallySport Direct | Brakes, Suspension, Chassis | 21 | 07-02-2014 06:31 PM |
The OFFICIAL Ohlins Coilover Suspension thread - High End Competition Suspension | ModBargains.com | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 63 | 05-22-2013 09:15 AM |
2012 Team USA vs the 1992 Dream Team | ERZperformance | Off-Topic Lounge [WARNING: NO POLITICS] | 1 | 09-14-2012 07:19 PM |
Team build thread; PROJECT.STH | trueno86power | Other Vehicles & General Automotive Discussions | 0 | 03-02-2010 11:13 AM |