This is why you need an aftermarket header for tracking with an FI car

[Sleepless]

These failures could be caused by your tune. There are others out there with stock header and FI and so far you are the only one that seems to be having this problem.

[Scott@HKSUSA]

Holy cow! The first one looks like it separated at a seam. But the second one... It takes serious heat and really strong pulses to blow metal out like that.

Good choice on the replacement!

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

No leaks just returning mostly to stock. Plus it was overkill for DD. Oil temps at night or cold days were way to low IMO. It the 170-180's F

"overkill".. I hear this word pretty often these days
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=76

for a track day no cooling mod is "overkill" IMO, there is "adequate" or "inadequate " cooling..

if you don't have a thermostat or thermostatic sandwich plate (so called "high flow plates" which I've never been a fan of) or don't block the oil cooler during cold winters/days, it's expected to see those kind of temps .. if you still have the oil cooler I would keep it and add a thermostat (not a thermostatic plate that is prone to failure)

I would get some sort of oil cooler (OEM preferably ) even when stock,

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Wow that's pretty telling about oem headers - though this usage is waay out of their design envelope. I couldn't tell from reading your post on my phone- did you try gutting the primary cat?


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I didn't but I bought a gutted OEM header from craigslist (for track only) and results were the same.. ideally we would want to header as far as possible from the heads to avoid a catastrophic failure when the cats go bad, so instead of getting catless FP and Catted header, catted FP and Catless header sounds a bit safer..

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

These failures could be caused by your tune. There are others out there with stock header and FI and so far you are the only one that seems to be having this problem.

nope, it's not tune related Pete, FYI my tune is on the conservative side and I know I am leaving some power on the table because of that..
we also hear many people claim that they never pass 230 F with their boosted cars, makes you wonder how hard they drive or the average RPMs during that specific session

I am willing to bet you that I can destroy the OEM header with any boosted car as long as the ambient temps are the same and there is no restriction to the boost or tune

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA

Holy cow! The first one looks like it separated at a seam. But the second one... It takes serious heat and really strong pulses to blow metal out like that.

Good choice on the replacement!

if you think about it, it shouldn't take too much heat to crack a low quality mild steel header at the welds

Today, I've got my HKS headers from the coating place that
@Drift-Office recommended (thanks Bob!) I am hoping that it won't crack this time

I will install them soon along with the other things (Cosworth thermostat, Berk FP and possibly a home brew oil cooler since I don't like the current offerings in the market)

[bfrank1972]

I was thinking tune has to be a factor as well - a lot of factors affect EGT. Often 'conservative' tunes are backing off on timing, and retarding timing can increase EGT in many cases - but I'm sure your tuner has a far better idea than I do. I've seen your track vids and you hustle the car pretty good- I think you made a sound investment


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[Lunatic]

Your going to love the coating. I had my headed coater with 2000 degree ceramic inside and out and it made a big difference.

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by glamcem

if you think about it, it shouldn't take too much heat to crack a low quality mild steel header at the welds

Today, I've got my HKS headers from the coating place that
@Drift-Office recommended (thanks Bob!) I am hoping that it won't crack this time

That was my car on the dyno at @Drift-Office when you stopped by ...

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

Your going to love the coating. I had my headed coater with 2000 degree ceramic inside and out and it made a big difference.

good to know Steve

that combined with the Titanium (sounds fancy when they say "Titanium" I think, haha) and the wrap that came with the header I think it should be fine.. I will also get some more heat wrap to cover all the oil and fuel lines in engine bay, close to the header area..

I was also planning a custom vent on my hood then I decided to wait till I get my Vented hood instead .. I have a few other projects for cooling, will keep you posted

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

That was my car on the dyno at @Drift-Office when you stopped by ...

wait a minute, when?

also, if you don't have any plans for September you should come join the RRS events , they now offer Monday-Tuesday events, I couldn't make it to the last one (thanks to the headers) but my friends really liked it .. open track all day

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by glamcem

wait a minute, when?

also, if you don't have any plans for September you should come join the RRS events , they now offer Monday-Tuesday events, I couldn't make it to the last one (thanks to the headers) but my friends really liked it .. open track all day

Today. They installed the Crawford intake spacers.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

Today. They installed the Crawford intake spacers.

oh ok, yeah I was in Auburn area and called Bob soon after left the coating place, I was planning to go there but decided to come back home since they were about to go for a lunch and I had to work this afternoon

[2much]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

I agree with OEM is better. I just switch all my exhaust(Catless Borla UEL, Motiv OP, and Perrin 2.5inch Resonated CB) back to stock. WoW what a difference. I don't think I can't go back to aftermarket. I love the quiet smooth OEM sound.

But what's going to cover up the crickets??