Attatched Spacer

[SquidyTweak]

Originally Posted by mav1178

The general rule is to get 5 full turns on the lug nut. You need to spread the load on enough threads to not sheer the stud.

-alex

General rule of thumb is 1 bolt/stud diameter of thread engagement.

Source: ASME, ME degree.

[dizzario]

Originally Posted by SquidyTweak

General rule of thumb is 1 bolt/stud diameter of thread engagement.

Source: ASME, ME degree.

I'm well aware of the '5 turn thing'. Just waiting on a chance to to try it out.

[fstlane]

Originally Posted by dizzario

...did you mean to put 'stock studs'...?




I'm running a 5mm in the rear right now. Slip-on. I want move up to 10mm. Are you running any spacers? I'm not trying to be a ****, but it seems like a lot of this '3-5mm only' jazz is coming from peoples' asses, you know? I'm gonna have to throw both of my 5mm on one side just to check the thread engagement. Again, not trying to call you out. Just stating that I have yet to see anyone try a 10mm slip-on and realize there isn't enough thread left.

It's simple math that you can do without even removing your wheels. With your wheel on, put a lug nut on the recommended number of safe turns (9.6 for 12mmx1.25), and then count how many extra turns you get till the nut is all torqued down. Then multiply the number of extra turns by the thread pitch, 1.25mm.

For example, if you turn your lug nut 9.6 times, and then it turned an extra 4 times till it was snugged and torqued, you could safely use a (4 turns) x (1.25mm per turn) = 5mm spacer and still have 9.6 turns when it was installed.

That said, I came up with about a 4mm spacer thickness measurement with my Rota Titan wheels running stock length studs.

[dizzario]

Originally Posted by fstlane

It's simple math that you can do without even removing your wheels. With your wheel on, put a lug nut on the recommended number of safe turns (8 for 12x1.25), and then count how many extra turns you get till the nut is all torqued down. Then multiply the number of extra turns by the thread pitch, 1.25mm.

For example, if you turn your lug nut 8 times, and then it turned an extra 4 times till it was snugged and torqued, you could safely use a (4 turns) x (1.25mm per turn) = 5mm spacer and still have 8 turns when it was installed.

That said, I came up with about a 4mm spacer thickness measurement with my Rota Titan wheels running stock length studs.

@SquidyTweak care to chime in on this? Where does this formula come from?

[SquidyTweak]

Originally Posted by fstlane

It's simple math that you can do without even removing your wheels. With your wheel on, put a lug nut on the recommended number of safe turns (8 for 12x1.25), and then count how many extra turns you get till the nut is all torqued down. Then multiply the number of extra turns by the thread pitch, 1.25mm.

For example, if you turn your lug nut 8 times, and then it turned an extra 4 times till it was snugged and torqued, you could safely use a (4 turns) x (1.25mm per turn) = 5mm spacer and still have 8 turns when it was installed.

That said, I came up with about a 4mm spacer thickness measurement with my Rota Titan wheels running stock length studs.

I would like to see your source for this calculation. From what I see is you are determining the number of threads needed to obtain proper torque on the nut and stud.

I like to keep it simple and look at two things: 1) proper torque 2) adequate # of threads engaged to support the rated load without shearing.

My recommendation to anyone reading this thread is to

1) torque the lug nuts to factory settings

2) measure the diameter of the stud, and make sure there is equal to our more than that diameter in depth between the end of the stuff and the wheel.

I can provide the source to the recommended bolting practice if needed, or just trust a design engineer at a nuclear powerplant. I honestly would love to spread any knowledge I can on to those curious.

[SquidyTweak]

It would be worth checking whether torque values change with different lug nut material such as aluminum vs carbon steel.... I'll look into it check back in.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[fstlane]

Originally Posted by SquidyTweak

I would like to see your source for this calculation. From what I see is you are determining the number of threads needed to obtain proper torque on the nut and stud.

I like to keep it simple and look at two things: 1) proper torque 2) adequate # of threads engaged to support the rated load without shearing.

My recommendation to anyone reading this thread is to

1) torque the lug nuts to factory settings

2) measure the diameter of the stud, and make sure there is equal to our more than that diameter in depth between the end of the stuff and the wheel.

I can provide the source to the recommended bolting practice if needed, or just trust a design engineer at a nuclear powerplant. I honestly would love to spread any knowledge I can on to those curious.

Negative, I'm not even taking torque into consideration. I'm just saying you can take minimum engagement, in this case 12mm, and divide it by the thread pitch 1.25mm to come up with how many revolutions of the lug nut it takes to travel the 12mm engagement depth on the wheel stud. I screwed up the math initially (was using 1.5mm pitch) as it should be 12mm divided by 1.25mm pitch which equals 9.6 revolutions. If you cannot get 9.6 revolutions from the lug nut from the start of the thread until it's torqued down then you don't have the recommended 12mm of thread engagement. I'll update the above post with the correct numbers. Thanks for pointing out the error!

[SquidyTweak]

Originally Posted by fstlane

Negative, I'm not even taking torque into consideration. I'm just saying you can take minimum engagement, in this case 12mm, and divide it by the thread pitch 1.25mm to come up with how many revolutions of the lug not it takes to travel the 12mm engagement depth on the wheel study. I screwed up the math initially (was using 1.5mm pitch) as it should be 12mm divided by 1.25mm pitch which equals 9.6 revolutions. If you cannot get 9.6 revolutions from the lug not from the start of the thread until it's torqued down then you don't have the recommended 12mm of thread engagement. I'll update the above post with the correct numbers. Thanks for pointing out the error!

Ah, I see what you are doing and definitely agree with your approach. Thanks for putting it out there.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[dizzario]

Awesome. Teamwork is always handy.

[V3rtigo]

Originally Posted by dizzario

...did you mean to put 'stock studs'...?

The studs may be referred to as lugs.