Soooo my motor blew up. Who's got the best short block?

[Milhouse86]

Thanks is for all of the replies and advice.

I have driven a lot of different cars. Everything from Tesla P100D to a Ferrari Scud. I truly like my FRS. I can afford more car but she fits like a glove. I am looking to pick up viper in a year or two, waiting for a liquidation event, and the FRS will stick with mostly track duty/cruise nights and car shows.

For the time being just looking for something reliable that I can beat on for the weekends. In a year I will probably add the JRSC but I will start with a standard pulley and see if I want more.

I talked to Full Blown and found out I can not send them my short block for the core charge. I thought if the block was not windowed then it was still ok. So have to add another 2k...

Should I find a junk yard motor and have a local shop build it? Talking to Full Blown they think my block is worthless now.



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[Goingnowherefast]

Originally Posted by Milhouse86

Thanks is for all of the replies and advice.

I have driven a lot of different cars. Everything from Tesla P100D to a Ferrari Scud. I truly like my FRS. I can afford more car but she fits like a glove. I am looking to pick up viper in a year or two, waiting for a liquidation event, and the FRS will stick with mostly track duty/cruise nights and car shows.

For the time being just looking for something reliable that I can beat on for the weekends. In a year I will probably add the JRSC but I will start with a standard pulley and see if I want more.

I talked to Full Blown and found out I can not send them my short block for the core charge. I thought if the block was not windowed then it was still ok. So have to add another 2k...

Should I find a junk yard motor and have a local shop build it? Talking to Full Blown they think my block is worthless now.

Well that's one of the beauty's of IAG's short blocks; no core charge. They start with brand new OEM Subaru case halves. I think it's worth it to remove the engine and inspect for damage. If we can figure out if the heads are okay, then it's a big cost savings right there.

[Milhouse86]

Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast

Well that's one of the beauty's of IAG's short blocks; no core charge. They start with brand new OEM Subaru case halves. I think it's worth it to remove the engine and inspect for damage. If we can figure out if the heads are okay, then it's a big cost savings right there.

Yah I just talked to them. They seem to know their shit. Going over a quote now. Little more expensive then I was expecting with all the extra BS that goes into it.

Do you know anyone running an IAG's FA20D motor?

[Clutch Dog]

Originally Posted by Milhouse86

Yah I just talked to them. They seem to know their shit. Going over a quote now. Little more expensive then I was expecting with all the extra BS that goes into it.

Do you know anyone running an IAG's FA20D motor?

I dont know of anyone running the FA20

but they are a key sponsor for Sally McNulty
https://www.facebook.com/IAGPerforma...18113971594296

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by Milhouse86

Yah I just talked to them. They seem to know their shit. Going over a quote now. Little more expensive then I was expecting with all the extra BS that goes into it.

Do you know anyone running an IAG's FA20D motor?

I would go with them. Good luck!

And, since you are not strict about power level, I would go with stage 1 12.5 compression. Then, I would go as high as possible with 93 octane and a good EL header.

[GrabTheWheel]

Originally Posted by Milhouse86

Yah I just talked to them. They seem to know their shit. Going over a quote now. Little more expensive then I was expecting with all the extra BS that goes into it.

Do you know anyone running an IAG's FA20D motor?

Hey, I’m just offering up the following info because A) You posted in this section B) You mentioned you will be tracking the car and C) I wish someone had done the same for me.

I fall into the same category as you being someone who can afford more car but is still a big fan of the platform. That being said please realize that no matter how high quality the parts used in your engine build I.E. forged pistons and rods that are good for 1000 HP, if your engine isn’t getting oil it’s all irrelevant. There’s a reason why Porsche is able to make their boxer engines reliable on track and it’s not because of the pistons and rods they use.

I know several people out there who tracked built motors from Outfront, Blue Moon etc. and not a single one lasted a full season. I’m not saying there’s nobody out there tracking a built FA20 and have had it be reliable, I’ve just never come across them.

Since you’re not after crazy power and it sounds like you enjoy wrenching I would just buy used motors and replace as needed. Again not saying there are no reliable built motors for the track just haven’t come across them personally. I would be willing to bet money that on the standard pulley that comes with any of the SC kits that a stock motor built by Subaru would last as long or longer than a built engine.

Again, I’m not telling you to not build an FA20 if that’s really what you want to do but please do your research. If I was going to be tracking an expensive built FA20 I would look into the following, a dry sump oiling system and potentially eliminating the direct injection all together and replace with more port injectors. To me the whole DI system is a completely unnecessary point of failure. At the very least try and improve the stock fuel filtration system as I found it to be inadequate.

Best of luck no matter which route you decide!

[Milhouse86]

Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel

Hey, I’m just offering up the following info because A) You posted in this section B) You mentioned you will be tracking the car and C) I wish someone had done the same for me.

I fall into the same category as you being someone who can afford more car but is still a big fan of the platform. That being said please realize that no matter how high quality the parts used in your engine build I.E. forged pistons and rods that are good for 1000 HP, if your engine isn’t getting oil it’s all irrelevant. There’s a reason why Porsche is able to make their boxer engines reliable on track and it’s not because of the pistons and rods they use.

I know several people out there who tracked built motors from Outfront, Blue Moon etc. and not a single one lasted a full season. I’m not saying there’s nobody out there tracking a built a built FA20 and have had it be reliable, I’ve just never come across them.

Since you’re not after crazy power and it sounds like you enjoy wrenching I would just buy used motors and replace as needed. Again not saying there are no reliable built motors for the track just haven’t come across them personally. I would be willing to bet money that on the standard pulley that comes with any of the SC kits that a stock motor built by Subaru would last as long or longer than a built engine.

Again, I’m not telling you to not build an FA20 if that’s really what you want to do but please do your research. If I was going to be tracking an expensive built FA20 I would look into the following, a dry sump oiling system and potentially eliminating the direct injection all together and replace with more port injectors. To me the whole DI system is a completely unnecessary point of failure. At the very least try and improve the stock fuel filtration system as I found it to be inadequate.

Best of luck no matter which route you decide!

Hey thanks for the advice! Hope I did not come across defensive. Open to all advice currently as I do not know what I am doing yet. Would rather the honest opinion.

Should I be doing any work to the heads while everything is apart? At least get them cleaned out? New springs and valves?

I know 4th gear is already going and I am on the stock clutch at 100k miles so I am gonna rebuild the trans with carbon syncros for a little more durability and replace the clutch.

Anything else I should be looking at with everything out and apart?

**** my car is gonna be down all winter....

[Milhouse86]

What does everyone think about Element Tuning? I talked with them for a little bit today about their Pro Comp 10.5:1 with big valve heads. Anyone running one of their engines?

I don't think I am ready to give up the built engine with a SC dream yet.

[eherschend]

Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel

Hey, I’m just offering up the following info because A) You posted in this section B) You mentioned you will be tracking the car and C) I wish someone had done the same for me.

I fall into the same category as you being someone who can afford more car but is still a big fan of the platform. That being said please realize that no matter how high quality the parts used in your engine build I.E. forged pistons and rods that are good for 1000 HP, if your engine isn’t getting oil it’s all irrelevant. There’s a reason why Porsche is able to make their boxer engines reliable on track and it’s not because of the pistons and rods they use.

I know several people out there who tracked built motors from Outfront, Blue Moon etc. and not a single one lasted a full season. I’m not saying there’s nobody out there tracking a built FA20 and have had it be reliable, I’ve just never come across them.

Since you’re not after crazy power and it sounds like you enjoy wrenching I would just buy used motors and replace as needed. Again not saying there are no reliable built motors for the track just haven’t come across them personally. I would be willing to bet money that on the standard pulley that comes with any of the SC kits that a stock motor built by Subaru would last as long or longer than a built engine.

Again, I’m not telling you to not build an FA20 if that’s really what you want to do but please do your research. If I was going to be tracking an expensive built FA20 I would look into the following, a dry sump oiling system and potentially eliminating the direct injection all together and replace with more port injectors. To me the whole DI system is a completely unnecessary point of failure. At the very least try and improve the stock fuel filtration system as I found it to be inadequate.

Best of luck no matter which route you decide!

I am supercharged c38 right now which I currently use exclusively for drifting (@super_handsome_brz on the gram ). I would also like to eventually build my motor and extract a bit more power out of my setup but I keep reading about oiling issues.

I got a couple of questions; In your opinion does the chance of have an oiling issue increase with HP? And, Do G forces play a role? (Drifting, anecdotally I've heard, pulls less G's in comparison to road racing.)

[Milhouse86]

Originally Posted by eherschend

I am supercharged c38 right now which I currently use exclusively for drifting (@super_handsome_brz on the gram ). I would also like to eventually build my motor and extract a bit more power out of my setup but I keep reading about oiling issues.



I got a couple of questions; In your opinion does the chance of have an oiling issue increase with HP? And, Do G forces play a role? (Drifting, anecdotally I've heard, pulls less G's in comparison to road racing.)

I have been going through @Element Tuning thread about our oiling issues. I spent some time on the phone with them and was very impressed. I would out a link to the thread but I'm on my phone. Should be easy to find. Worth the read so far.

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