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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 06-27-2015, 05:33 PM   #29
Panman
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According to the Template, yes. Even stage II was very close to fitting.


That's what I'm ordering.
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:06 PM   #30
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How much mm of a spacer would you need to clear the Stage 2s on the 17x9 +35 RPF1?
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Old 06-28-2015, 06:21 AM   #31
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How much mm of a spacer would you need to clear the Stage 2s on the 17x9 +35 RPF1?

I'd say 5mm max possibly less.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:00 AM   #32
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Not bad, looks like these kits will work for folks building Spec86 Cup Cars as we allow up to 330mm rotors in the front!

-mike
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:46 AM   #33
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Not bad, looks like these kits will work for folks building Spec86 Cup Cars as we allow up to 330mm rotors in the front!

-mike



Agreed. We are confidant these kits will stack up to any BBK out there for the 86, only they are a much better value for what you get.


Stoptech ST40, for example, is a good kit, but our Stage IV package is much more track focused, and competitively priced.


Neal from The Racer's Line successfully ran our Stage II kit last weekend, and that's 1/2 the cost of an ST40.


Rafi
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:15 AM   #34
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Subbed for a Sprint kit vs RR RB kit discussion
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:31 AM   #35
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Subbed for a Sprint kit vs RR RB kit discussion

Not sure what you mean, but the direct comparison to our Competition Stage IV kit is the Endurance kit, not the Sprint kit.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:37 AM   #36
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The stage IV is ~450 less than the spint kit, and ~950 less than the endurance kit, yet looks to spec similar to the endurance kit. From what I can tell, it just doesn't have the brake ducts built into the caliper spacers.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:59 AM   #37
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The stage IV is ~450 less than the spint kit, and ~950 less than the endurance kit, yet looks to spec similar to the endurance kit. From what I can tell, it just doesn't have the brake ducts built into the caliper spacers.


Good point, and shortly we will address that with a new brake duct setup that will also seal off the ID of the rotor to get better cooling and flow, that is the best way to do a brake duct, otherwise you can just attach a pipe to the stock dust shields and call it a day:-)


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Old 07-07-2015, 10:15 PM   #38
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I am currently on the stock braking components. I have upgraded lines, fluid, and run HP+ pads. My last day on track i was starting to get some fade in the braking zone, and well as some slight loss of pedal feel, I am guessing I was overheating the Hp+ pads.

I have been looking at ordering a bbk on and off, and this sounds like a great combo. What pads do you suggest with this? The car is not a DD and sees lots of auto-x/road course events around the upper midwest.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:13 PM   #39
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I am currently on the stock braking components. I have upgraded lines, fluid, and run HP+ pads. My last day on track i was starting to get some fade in the braking zone, and well as some slight loss of pedal feel, I am guessing I was overheating the Hp+ pads.

I have been looking at ordering a bbk on and off, and this sounds like a great combo. What pads do you suggest with this? The car is not a DD and sees lots of auto-x/road course events around the upper midwest.



For street/track use, I highly recommend running the Wilwood BP20 pads that are available with our kits. We have tracked these pads and I can promise you they will hold up for 30 min HPDE track sessions, without the drawbacks of race pads such as excessive noise, dust, and rotor wear. BP20's are rated up to 1100F, and with the upgraded rotors, you will not reach those temps.


You can keep using the HP-Plus in the rear if you leave the stock rear brakes, they will work well with the BP20's up front.


-Rafi
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:52 PM   #40
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When would you recommend stepping up to the bp30? Do you have any links with the info between the pads?

Also, red is only available in the narrow calipers, correct?
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:02 AM   #41
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When would you recommend stepping up to the bp30? Do you have any links with the info between the pads?

Also, red is only available in the narrow calipers, correct?



We recommend stepping up to BP30's with full race slicks. The other alternative which we haven't experimented too much with (yet) is Compound "J" pads. They have a high temp capability, but friction coefficient is lower than BP30's, so they many work well with slicks or R-compounds. We don't like running race compounds on stock rear brakes, as it will push the rear to the limit. That said, you can get our Stage II front and rear kits for LESS than the price of many well known front kits. Even our Stage IV competition + Stage I/II rears is priced about the same as a competition 13" kit from our competitor.


We carry Wilwood and Hawk pads, here are some charts showing you the difference in friction coefficients and temperature capability:
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:43 AM   #42
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I typically run 200tw tires for most events. I have 2 events per year that I usually plan on r comps(Hoosier a6) for autox and time attack. The rest I run in street classes. My plan was to order dtc60s originally.

Looks like the end bp20 has a higher temp rating and a slightly friction rating, but only at the high heats. Are the compounds with letters the hawk products?

Would you say that the lower initial friction rating would result in a bit less intitial bite?

Dust,noise, etc don't bother me. The sacrifice is worth it when it comes to proper track performance.
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