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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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09-13-2020, 05:59 PM | #29 |
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Wow that sounds really bad. I would try going back to stock ecu file if you can.
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09-13-2020, 07:05 PM | #30 | |
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I don't think so?
Quote:
Im wondering if the headers were loosely installed as well. My first thought was the 02 sensor but I was told earlier in this thread that the 02 sensors wouldn't cause that problem. I am happy that most likely my engine isn't done for. Just curious as to what the problem is still. |
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09-13-2020, 07:06 PM | #31 |
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09-13-2020, 07:08 PM | #32 |
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I would also go back to stock headers if possible. Were you monitoring fuel trims etc... After the flash to make sure your were not tuning lean or watching your IAM to see if your car was pulling timming?
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09-13-2020, 08:12 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
Along with the other guys, I'd go back to a stock tune and stock headers if possible. If you don't have the headers, definitely flash back to stock and make sure you're only throwing a P0420 Catalyst Efficiency code. Maybe pick up a set of gaskets and start there too. I've seen many builds where the headers leak because of cheap or re-used gaskets. I'd also check that the flanges aren't warped if you have a good straight edge or a machinist friend. Lastly, since it sounds like you're OFT so here's their article for logging: https://support.openflashtablet.com/...e-datalogging- Some of the key channels to log are Air Fuel Ratio (AFR), Commanded AFR, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT), Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT), Ignition Advance, and Advance Multiplier (IAM). A normal log for a good tune at idle will have trims that are close to 0%, an AFR that's tracking the Commanded AFR almost perfectly, and an Advance Multiplier that's trending from 0.7 towards 1. If you grab a log datazap.me is a pretty widely used site to chart and share them. |
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09-13-2020, 09:36 PM | #34 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Slade For This Useful Post: | anticubus (09-13-2020) |
09-13-2020, 10:07 PM | #35 |
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Post up that log once you have one, and i'll see if anything is badly off
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09-13-2020, 11:45 PM | #36 | |
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https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107577 This fix he found, about the vacuum pump? Never heard of that before. "Automatics have a special vacuum pump that is attached to the cam (instead of just a cover) on the passenger rear of the engine. This pump had gone bad causing stalling issues AND the metal knocking. Since it is attached to the cam, it was masking itself as potential rocker noise. Pump, O-ring and gasket maker was $170. Install was 20 minutes taking my sweat time. Fix is confirmed! She purrs like a kitten with no stalls or clanking noises! I've been chasing this over a year and have spent $12k in upgrades trying to get rid of it. Hopefully others can shortcut this" |
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09-14-2020, 04:04 PM | #37 |
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Shop told me just now that the motor is blown, super bummed. Here is the log info though:
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09-15-2020, 01:09 AM | #38 |
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Engine blown from headers and a tune?
Seems suspect. |
09-15-2020, 03:11 AM | #39 |
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I am sorry dude, sounds just like the "rod knock" I had. I can't tell you what it was for sure since we never opened the motor up to find out. I found a well priced 2nd hand FA20 and threw it in over a weekend with a mate. Almost certainly the header install had nothing to do with your failure it is just coincidental that it happened after the install.
I'd hazard a guess that if you weren't comfortable installing the header you won't be looking to swap in a motor either. Make sure you get a few quotes whichever direction you decide to go. Given the hack job on installing your o2 sensor I wouldn't be rushing back to the guys that installed your header.
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09-15-2020, 01:40 PM | #40 |
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You fucked it up.
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09-15-2020, 01:42 PM | #41 | |
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09-15-2020, 01:44 PM | #42 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Tokay444 For This Useful Post: | anticubus (09-15-2020) |
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