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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 09-13-2020, 05:59 PM   #29
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Wow that sounds really bad. I would try going back to stock ecu file if you can.

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Old 09-13-2020, 07:05 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Do you have a datalog?
I don't think so?




Quote:
Originally Posted by anticubus View Post
Sounds like a nasty leak from over here. Badly installed headers or maybe a loose spark plug, but the lack of CEL is confusing here. I know many tunes force the ECU to be quiet about exhaust codes with catless headers. You'd have a misfire and probably a real fire if the cylinder was dumping the A/F mix out the spark plug hole.

As such I'd be searching for an issue with the header install, say from a bad gasket or a badly installed O2 sensor. That would also explain the rough idle as it tries to compensate for O2 readings that don't represent what's actually happening.

Get CSG a data log though, I want his professional opinion!
Ok I am bringing the car to the shop tomorrow. I started the car again a little later and the knocking noise went away significantly but its still there. The squeaking was a lot more noticeable. I did an oil change after just to see if the old oil had any metal in there. I am happy to say it didn't. That alleviated my fears about the oil being done. Used my OFT tablet to see if there were any codes in the ECU and I had nothing, no codes.

Im wondering if the headers were loosely installed as well. My first thought was the 02 sensor but I was told earlier in this thread that the 02 sensors wouldn't cause that problem. I am happy that most likely my engine isn't done for. Just curious as to what the problem is still.
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Old 09-13-2020, 07:06 PM   #31
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Wow that sounds really bad. I would try going back to stock ecu file if you can.

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You think its the tune? I'm thinking about going back but now I'm afraid I may cause more problems?
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Old 09-13-2020, 07:08 PM   #32
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I would also go back to stock headers if possible. Were you monitoring fuel trims etc... After the flash to make sure your were not tuning lean or watching your IAM to see if your car was pulling timming?

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Old 09-13-2020, 08:12 PM   #33
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Im wondering if the headers were loosely installed as well. My first thought was the 02 sensor but I was told earlier in this thread that the 02 sensors wouldn't cause that problem.
The sensor may be fine, but if there's a leak anywhere from the valve to the last O2 sensor in a given exhaust set up, the ECU will compensate incorrectly, see other conditions change unexpectedly (like low RPMs from the now incorrect A/F ratio) and compensate for those, then cycle like that in a rough idle until the point where it can't recover and dies.

Along with the other guys, I'd go back to a stock tune and stock headers if possible. If you don't have the headers, definitely flash back to stock and make sure you're only throwing a P0420 Catalyst Efficiency code.
Maybe pick up a set of gaskets and start there too. I've seen many builds where the headers leak because of cheap or re-used gaskets. I'd also check that the flanges aren't warped if you have a good straight edge or a machinist friend.

Lastly, since it sounds like you're OFT so here's their article for logging: https://support.openflashtablet.com/...e-datalogging-

Some of the key channels to log are Air Fuel Ratio (AFR), Commanded AFR, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT), Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT), Ignition Advance, and Advance Multiplier (IAM). A normal log for a good tune at idle will have trims that are close to 0%, an AFR that's tracking the Commanded AFR almost perfectly, and an Advance Multiplier that's trending from 0.7 towards 1.

If you grab a log datazap.me is a pretty widely used site to chart and share them.
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:36 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by anticubus View Post
The sensor may be fine, but if there's a leak anywhere from the valve to the last O2 sensor in a given exhaust set up, the ECU will compensate incorrectly, see other conditions change unexpectedly (like low RPMs from the now incorrect A/F ratio) and compensate for those, then cycle like that in a rough idle until the point where it can't recover and dies.

Along with the other guys, I'd go back to a stock tune and stock headers if possible. If you don't have the headers, definitely flash back to stock and make sure you're only throwing a P0420 Catalyst Efficiency code.
Maybe pick up a set of gaskets and start there too. I've seen many builds where the headers leak because of cheap or re-used gaskets. I'd also check that the flanges aren't warped if you have a good straight edge or a machinist friend.

Lastly, since it sounds like you're OFT so here's their article for logging: https://support.openflashtablet.com/...e-datalogging-

Some of the key channels to log are Air Fuel Ratio (AFR), Commanded AFR, Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT), Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT), Ignition Advance, and Advance Multiplier (IAM). A normal log for a good tune at idle will have trims that are close to 0%, an AFR that's tracking the Commanded AFR almost perfectly, and an Advance Multiplier that's trending from 0.7 towards 1.

If you grab a log datazap.me is a pretty widely used site to chart and share them.
Thank you so much
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Old 09-13-2020, 10:07 PM   #35
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Post up that log once you have one, and i'll see if anything is badly off
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:45 PM   #36
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Post up that log once you have one, and i'll see if anything is badly off
Will do. In the meantime, what do you guys think about this? Found this thread while doing research. I really should be sleeping but I am just so anxious.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107577

This fix he found, about the vacuum pump? Never heard of that before.

"Automatics have a special vacuum pump that is attached to the cam (instead of just a cover) on the passenger rear of the engine. This pump had gone bad causing stalling issues AND the metal knocking. Since it is attached to the cam, it was masking itself as potential rocker noise. Pump, O-ring and gasket maker was $170. Install was 20 minutes taking my sweat time. Fix is confirmed! She purrs like a kitten with no stalls or clanking noises! I've been chasing this over a year and have spent $12k in upgrades trying to get rid of it. Hopefully others can shortcut this"
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Old 09-14-2020, 04:04 PM   #37
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Post up that log once you have one, and i'll see if anything is badly off
Shop told me just now that the motor is blown, super bummed. Here is the log info though:
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:09 AM   #38
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Engine blown from headers and a tune?
Seems suspect.
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Old 09-15-2020, 03:11 AM   #39
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I am sorry dude, sounds just like the "rod knock" I had. I can't tell you what it was for sure since we never opened the motor up to find out. I found a well priced 2nd hand FA20 and threw it in over a weekend with a mate. Almost certainly the header install had nothing to do with your failure it is just coincidental that it happened after the install.

I'd hazard a guess that if you weren't comfortable installing the header you won't be looking to swap in a motor either. Make sure you get a few quotes whichever direction you decide to go. Given the hack job on installing your o2 sensor I wouldn't be rushing back to the guys that installed your header.
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:40 PM   #40
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You fucked it up.
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:42 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anticubus View Post
Sounds like a nasty leak from over here. Badly installed headers or maybe a loose spark plug, but the lack of CEL is confusing here. I know many tunes force the ECU to be quiet about exhaust codes with catless headers. You'd have a misfire and probably a real fire if the cylinder was dumping the A/F mix out the spark plug hole.

As such I'd be searching for an issue with the header install, say from a bad gasket or a badly installed O2 sensor. That would also explain the rough idle as it tries to compensate for O2 readings that don't represent what's actually happening.

Get CSG a data log though, I want his professional opinion!
Maybe he should take all the extra headers off.
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:44 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Shop told me just now that the motor is blown, super bummed. Here is the log info though:
That’s not a log.
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