getting only front BBK?

[jamal]

A well designed kit should not alter the brake bias by much, even if it's 355mm and has 6-pots. Stoptech for example is pretty good about keeping it the same. The essex kit moves the bias rearward a bit based on my numbers.

Also, with stickier tires on track, you can actually wind up needing more front bias as there is more weight transfer during braking. But stock systems are already generally pretty far forward under hard braking and EBD works pretty well.

[Stang70Fastback]

Nothing wrong with doing that if the kit is designed for it, which it should be if it was designed for your car. Here's my front BBK with stock rears:

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Lynxis

I do. RR Racing Sport Performance front BBK with OEM rear.

Are you running the same pads front and rear or staggered compounds?

Was curious how they worked out. The only reason I am running Stop Tech is I found a front BBK new for 1700 because a guy bought them then sold his car.

[Lynxis]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Are you running the same pads front and rear or staggered compounds?

Was curious how they worked out. The only reason I am running Stop Tech is I found a front BBK new for 1700 because a guy bought them then sold his car.

Same compounds. EBC Yellowstuff for street and Winmax W5 for track and autocross.

In terms of how it worked out, the setup works great. I'm only entering my 4th year of high performance driving this year so my word isn't worth much but there are no issues with brake balance that I can detect. Stopping distances are incredibly short and no issues with trail braking and reliability of the system has been amazing to me. That said, various people with 10 to 20 years of experience in amateur racing have driven my car and commented about how amazing the braking setup is. It seems to be the single most outstanding aspect of my car to anyone else who drives it.

[sIowbrz]

dont see alot of guys here running stoptech bbk 328. more s2k guys run stoptech bbk

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Lynxis

Same compounds. EBC Yellowstuff for street and Winmax W5 for track and autocross.

In terms of how it worked out, the setup works great. I'm only entering my 4th year of high performance driving this year so my word isn't worth much but there are no issues with brake balance that I can detect. Stopping distances are incredibly short and no issues with trail braking and reliability of the system has been amazing to me. That said, various people with 10 to 20 years of experience in amateur racing have driven my car and commented about how amazing the braking setup is. It seems to be the single most outstanding aspect of my car to anyone else who drives it.

Wondered how the numbers translated to actual use. If you have 5% change at 10K lbs of force in the front and 6k lbs of force in the rear, the difference in force is a lot less then if the numbers are 100k/60k. Never seen that data brought up. I'd imagine it varies greatly on track layout. Have you considered trying a staggered setup to see if there is any benefit?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by sIowbrz

dont see alot of guys here running stoptech bbk 328. more s2k guys run stoptech bbk

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UVSiMk8Ya0NExA9I3

[sIowbrz]

hows the dust boot hold up with track heat?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by sIowbrz

hows the dust boot hold up with track heat?

I have only one day at the track on them. 7 half hour sessions and they are fine. Never had an issue with the dust boots on my stock calipers.

[Lynxis]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Wondered how the numbers translated to actual use. If you have 5% change at 10K lbs of force in the front and 6k lbs of force in the rear, the difference in force is a lot less then if the numbers are 100k/60k. Never seen that data brought up. I'd imagine it varies greatly on track layout. Have you considered trying a staggered setup to see if there is any benefit?

I did run staggered pads when I first got the BBK. In the front were Wilwood BP10 ~.30mu and EBC Yellowstuff in the rear with ~.35mu and they felt fine although bite was lacking compared to my W5s but I can't tell a difference in terms of balance.

And honestly, I'm just not skilled enough yet to tell the difference in a ~5% bias change. It's certainly not enough to cause excessive fade or wear issues with the W5s but that's about all I can say for certain. I'm only entering my 4th year of high performance driving and while I'm starting to build serious pace, I don't yet have enough consistency for laptime comparisons to be meaningful.

[stlgrym3]

got a quote for a set (front and rear) of Stoptech BBK for $4k. 355mm two-piece rotors 4 POT front, 345 two-piece rotors 2 POT rear. good deal?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by stlgrym3

got a quote for a set (front and rear) of Stoptech BBK for $4k. 355mm two-piece rotors 4 POT front, 345 two-piece rotors 2 POT rear. good deal?

How much brake do you need?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by stlgrym3

has anyone done this? will it be too weird to rock BBK up front and not rear?

Front only is just fine unless you have a really, REALLY fast car.

[JRitt]

Many of our customers across all platforms only run our front BBK with OEM rears...Mustang, Corvette, FT86, S2000, STI...the list goes on. For some applications we only offer the front. As long as the kit is properly designed to maintain bias, there's no issue. On the 86, the rear is absolutely not a requirement. We have cars all over the world with our front Sprint Kit that are boosted, engine swaps, etc. pounding out thousands of laps with just our front kit. You can see feedback from a bunch of them on our blog.

On an 86, a rear kit is a total waste of money IMO. I'd spend that money on tires, fuel, and even entry fees. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any other questions. Thanks.

From our website:

Q: Is it okay to just buy your front-only brake kit? What about the rears?
A: Our front brake kits are designed to very closely mimic the OEM torque output on the front axle.That is accomplished by carefully sizing the discs and caliper pistons.For example, if we increase the disc diameter in our kit vs. stock, we decrease the overall piston area to produce the same overall torque output as the factory setup.As such, installing our front kit on your car will only have a negligible impact on brake bias.In most cases, the shift in brake bias is only in the 2-3% range.To put that in perspective, installing a more aggressive brake pad compound in your factory front calipers would typically have a greater impact on brake bias than installing our front kit while keeping the OEM front pad compound.



On most front-engine sports cars, the front brakes are taxed much more heavily than the rear brakes.That's why the front brakes are almost always larger, and why you go through 2-3 sets of front pads and discs for every set of rears you burn up at the track.The fronts do a disproportionate amount of work, and as such, they are the most critical component to upgrade.On many platforms, rear brake upgrades offer diminishing returns.The rear factory components tend to be smaller and lighter than the front components.As such, switching to AP Racing calipers and discs don't usually offer the dramatic unsprung weight savings that they do on the front.Since the rears tend to not run as hot, simply running good race pads and stainless steel lines on the rear will solve or prevent any rear brake issues.



On a rear-engine car, the rear brakes do a proportionately higher amount of work than on a front-engine car.As such, brake wear tends to be more balanced on the front and rear, and rear upgrades can be more relatively more important to the overall system performance.