12-09-2021, 10:06 AM | #197 | |
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Like I said, I attached a rubber hose and vented it to atmosphere. The other thing I did was cut the hard line on the pulled fuel line and created a piece that can stick down into a gas jug. I need to empty and dispose of the E85 that’s been sitting in the gas tank. Once everything is hooked up, I should be able to turn on the accessories to activate the pump and clear out the gas, and then I can use the Kpower plug to cap that line. Probably a cleaner and simpler method than trying to use the existing line in the engine bay.
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Last edited by Irace86.2.0; 12-09-2021 at 02:36 PM. |
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12-09-2021, 10:32 AM | #198 |
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I'm almost on E so it may be time to pull the tanks and remove all of that as well.
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12-09-2021, 12:22 PM | #199 |
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I will leave it. Less weight would be nice, but it isn’t worth the effort, and the charcoal canisters should absorb most of the emissions and odors.
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12-09-2021, 12:39 PM | #200 |
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12-09-2021, 02:47 PM | #201 | |
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Unless I am confused, the EVAP system purges gases from the gas tank. Evaporating gas would normally vent to atmosphere, which isn’t good, but just creating a closed system with an air-tight gas cap would cause pressure to build, especially in the heat, so that isn’t good either. This could be bad for seals, and it could cause pressure to rapidly escape when the gas cap is removed. The EVAP system filters and purges the pressure to the intake manifold to be burned. I think if you remove everything and cap the system then that means you should burb the system or leave the gas cap off during storage for a long time, but regular and frequent fill-ups should relieve the pressure. If it is vented without the charcoal system then there may be odors and more emissions and potentially more opportunity for moisture and dirt to get in the tank. I don’t know how much of a risk there is in either way. I figured I would vent, but leave the particulates.
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12-09-2021, 03:05 PM | #202 | |
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I think you are right. Honestly dropping the tanks doesn't sound like fun anyway. |
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12-10-2021, 12:43 AM | #203 |
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I finished the driver's side of the engine bay, besides a few details that will need to wait until the rest is complete. For instance, I hooked up the vacuum lines, but I need to finish the BOV/IC pipes before I can route the line. Stuff like that.
The clearance on the intake and TB is fine. I should be able to fabricate a 3'' IC pipe that will clear the hood and route around everything. Speaking of clearance, the hood and TB do touch the hood insulation pad. Hopefully it isn't a problem.
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12-10-2021, 08:53 AM | #204 | |
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That top cover is a thing of beauty.
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12-11-2021, 12:21 AM | #205 |
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Why didn't anyone tell me I'm an idiot? I can't flip the wastegate down. If I do there then it won't work well. It needs to be 90 degrees at worst, but preferentially, it needs to go in the same direction as exhaust flow, and it must not go against the flow, so I'll have to play with things to see what I am going to do.
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12-11-2021, 03:19 AM | #206 | |
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You are learning a lot of things by trail blazing. Keep it going. All the best! Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk |
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12-11-2021, 11:27 PM | #207 |
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Pretty sure alot of people have.
Looks nice by the way. Last edited by brzlegend; 12-11-2021 at 11:56 PM. |
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12-12-2021, 04:54 PM | #208 | |
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higher pressure pre turbo than post turbo. The waistegate will control it, might need a little lighter spring than an in flow wastegate for the same boost level. |
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12-12-2021, 05:00 PM | #209 |
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12-12-2021, 05:57 PM | #210 |
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Glad I dont use precision waistegates.
Like I said it works and your turbo is way to small to worry about wastegate placement. Small turbos work off pressure, large turbos go towards the velocity side of things. If you really want to rack your brain study compound turbos where they drop engine backpressure by adding a big turbo after the small one exhaust wise, at the same boost. I won't interupt anymore, as the saying goes. https://www.suprastore.com/etstosumksit.html Last edited by brzlegend; 12-12-2021 at 08:18 PM. |
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