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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 05-01-2020, 06:28 PM   #5475
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Originally Posted by stacyu18 View Post
for anyone thinking about installing the c38 supercharger by yourself let me tell you that it is no easy process. I work on cars for a living and know what i am doing but to the normal person it will be a bitch. the best thing to do is break it down into days.day 1 take off the tires,fender wells,the under cover then the bumper.day 2 install the super charger. day 3 install the inter cooler and piping for me this was the most time consuming job due to the fact you had to make sure that the piping was set well enough that you could fit your headlights in and make sure that you have a screw gun or electric screwdriver and tape measure this will help a hell of alot. day 4 install the oil cooler and lines. day 5 install the tune check all hoses for leaks make sure that nothing is going to rub the fans or engine to burn anything and take car for test drive. day 6 if all is good and car is not leaking reinstall the bumper,fender wells,under cover and make sure that you didn't forget anything. some people may just say or take it to a shop to have done,well you can do that also but a extra 1000 dollars is a lot to some people.so i hope this help some people out. good luck on your adventure if you do it yourself.BTW each day maybe up to 3 hours.
The first time will always be the toughest! The first time I attempted an installation, it took me about 12 hours.
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Old 05-09-2020, 11:02 AM   #5476
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Just started the install on my 2013 day before yesterday. Taking my time, put in a few hours each day. Lots of down time due to the "plague", so no rush. About half way through the install with no issues so far. I have a bad back so utilizing a four post lift for the work. That makes a world of difference on the body (mine).
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Old 05-14-2020, 10:49 PM   #5477
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Finished the install this afternoon. Started up ran for 15-20 min. to check for leaks. Test drive tomorrow weather permitting. Took me about 12 hours total over a few days.
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Old 05-15-2020, 05:52 PM   #5478
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Finally ordered the dedicated oil cooler from CSG, have all the other pieces ready.
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Old 05-17-2020, 09:39 AM   #5479
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Went for about a 100 mile shake down cruise after the JRSC install. All good. No issues or leaks apparent. BRZ is a blast to drive now. Also painted the scuffs on the bottom of the front fascia with truck bed liner while it was off for the supercharger install. Topped it off with ProTeck skid plates as well.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:43 PM   #5480
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if you get the carb sc and then later decide to go with a custom tune, how will governing bodies ever be able to tell?
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Old 05-23-2020, 07:58 PM   #5481
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Finally took some time to install the dedicated oil cooler. No pictures of that as most of you know it but wanted to share a couple of things.

@ML shared a few tips to help with the temp issues, I was able to do 2 of them: reflective tape on the pipes and a custom piece to help direct the airflow better. I tried to do the cold air intake he mentioned but the coupler was too big to fit in the opening so I left it out. It's a 3" U coupler + a filter. If someone wants these parts, let me know. I think the radiator I have doesn't provide enough clearance.



@ML what radiator do you have?

As for the custom pieces, they're made out of Polyethylene. You can see with a flashlight how much space is left after having the stock piece around the IC pipe. Air is definitively leaking through there and not going through the cores.



After cutting the foam to fit you can see the difference (yes, the flashlight is still shinning).



Every little bit counts, the air has nowhere else to go but through the cores. View from the outside:



And the other side:



After the foam



Haven't been able to start her up, the stupid adapter for the oil filter won't come loose from the old sandwich plate so I need to get a new one. The adapter for this kit is thermostatic while the adapter from the DROC is not.



If someone wants to try this, I have Polyethylene left. Send me a PM and I'll ship it to you.
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:08 PM   #5482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peaches View Post
Finally took some time to install the dedicated oil cooler. No pictures of that as most of you know it but wanted to share a couple of things.


@ML shared a few tips to help with the temp issues, I was able to do 2 of them: reflective tape on the pipes and a custom piece to help direct the airflow better. I tried to do the cold air intake he mentioned but the coupler was too big to fit in the opening so I left it out. It's a 3" U coupler + a filter. If someone wants these parts, let me know. I think the radiator I have doesn't provide enough clearance.






@ML what radiator do you have?



As for the custom pieces, they're made out of Polyethylene. You can see with a flashlight how much space is left after having the stock piece around the IC pipe. Air is definitively leaking through there and not going through the cores.







After cutting the foam to fit you can see the difference (yes, the flashlight is still shinning).







Every little bit counts, the air has nowhere else to go but through the cores. View from the outside:







And the other side:







After the foam







Haven't been able to start her up, the stupid adapter for the oil filter won't come loose from the old sandwich plate so I need to get a new one. The adapter for this kit is thermostatic while the adapter from the DROC is not.







If someone wants to try this, I have Polyethylene left. Send me a PM and I'll ship it to you.
You went from the dual oil/rad to a dedicated one correct?

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Old 05-23-2020, 11:30 PM   #5483
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Stuck thermostatic oil cooler plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by peaches View Post
Finally took some time to install the dedicated oil cooler. No pictures of that as most of you know it but wanted to share a couple of things.

@ML shared a few tips to help with the temp issues, I was able to do 2 of them: reflective tape on the pipes and a custom piece to help direct the airflow better. I tried to do the cold air intake he mentioned but the coupler was too big to fit in the opening so I left it out. It's a 3" U coupler + a filter. If someone wants these parts, let me know. I think the radiator I have doesn't provide enough clearance.



@ML what radiator do you have?

As for the custom pieces, they're made out of Polyethylene. You can see with a flashlight how much space is left after having the stock piece around the IC pipe. Air is definitively leaking through there and not going through the cores.



After cutting the foam to fit you can see the difference (yes, the flashlight is still shinning).



Every little bit counts, the air has nowhere else to go but through the cores. View from the outside:



And the other side:



After the foam



Haven't been able to start her up, the stupid adapter for the oil filter won't come loose from the old sandwich plate so I need to get a new one. The adapter for this kit is thermostatic while the adapter from the DROC is not.



If someone wants to try this, I have Polyethylene left. Send me a PM and I'll ship it to you.
Peaches tech tip to try: As a retired Air Force F-15, C-130 and Aerospace Ground Equipment mechanic, when we would have to change a nose gear bearing set. We would pack the spindle in dry ice for 20 to 30 mins. It constricts the metal or alloy (shrinks it ever so slightly). Light tap with a mallet and they pop right off the spindle. Thatís per tech data.
I realize this is not an aircraft nose gear bearing set, however I have used this technique on my lawnmower shaft before in trying to get the collar off. It has worked every time. Maybe give this a try Iíll bet it will release. Especially as the O-ring shrinks as well. Hope this helps. Steve
I forgot. Publix grocery store sells dry ice. If not. Throw that sucker in your freezer for about an hour. Positive results will occur.

Last edited by sroby; 05-23-2020 at 11:32 PM. Reason: More info
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:35 AM   #5484
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Even just normal ice in a ziploc bag will cause noticeable shrinking
@peaches fantastic work!
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:13 AM   #5485
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You went from the dual oil/rad to a dedicated one correct?

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Yes, that's what I have. I removed those lines and capped the ends of the radiator.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:14 AM   #5486
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Peaches tech tip to try: As a retired Air Force F-15, C-130 and Aerospace Ground Equipment mechanic, when we would have to change a nose gear bearing set. We would pack the spindle in dry ice for 20 to 30 mins. It constricts the metal or alloy (shrinks it ever so slightly). Light tap with a mallet and they pop right off the spindle. Thatís per tech data.
I realize this is not an aircraft nose gear bearing set, however I have used this technique on my lawnmower shaft before in trying to get the collar off. It has worked every time. Maybe give this a try Iíll bet it will release. Especially as the O-ring shrinks as well. Hope this helps. Steve
I forgot. Publix grocery store sells dry ice. If not. Throw that sucker in your freezer for about an hour. Positive results will occur.
I ended up getting a replacement piece from a friend, took me over an hour to re-route the lines so they wouldn't be kinked. Going to run it for a while and makes sure there are no leaks, then I'll go for a ride and log some temps.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:47 AM   #5487
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@peaches I have a Koyo rad.
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I swear I will punch your car if you put these on. Right in the face.
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:08 AM   #5488
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Originally Posted by peaches View Post
Yes, that's what I have. I removed those lines and capped the ends of the radiator.
Good to know that's an option in the future if need be

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