Got a headlight or foglight question? ASK here.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by DaveB.inVa

I intend to eventually to follow instructions from a thread to allow the headlight boomerangs to run at full brightness.

I would like to have the boomerang turn off when the signal on that side is activated. I can build a circuit with a relay to interrupt the boomerang circuit when the signal is on and have the relay continue to be powered during the off period of the signal by using a diode and capacitor to keep the relay pulled in.

However, is there a simple module I can buy that does this?


Thank you for any info you can provide.

i believe this will do what you're looking for:
http://www.wolstentech.com/products/...elay/tdr-o.php

[Capt Spaulding]

I'mm pretty happy with the distance capabilities of my BRZ's oem HIDs but would like to supplement the peripheral lighting particularly on high beam. Diode Dynamics sells a set of pod lights that they claim are SAE approved fog beams (Sharp low cutoff) that fit in the OEM fog light locations that have caught my eye. I've found the bezels for the lights (my Premium has blanks) and a bezel for the factory dash switch and, I think the switch itself.

What I'm pretty hazy on is wiring the things. The OEM approach is fogs on only with the low beams which defeats my purpose. I have a rough mental schematic of a power wire from the main underhood fuse box running through a relay with outputs to each pod triggered by a lead from the dash switch. My questions are about locations to tap into power for the primary power for the lights and the power for the trigger circuit.

Any and all suggestions and observations would be appreciated. Thanks.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

I'mm pretty happy with the distance capabilities of my BRZ's oem HIDs but would like to supplement the peripheral lighting particularly on high beam. Diode Dynamics sells a set of pod lights that they claim are SAE approved fog beams (Sharp low cutoff) that fit in the OEM fog light locations that have caught my eye. I've found the bezels for the lights (my Premium has blanks) and a bezel for the factory dash switch and, I think the switch itself.

What I'm pretty hazy on is wiring the things. The OEM approach is fogs on only with the low beams which defeats my purpose. I have a rough mental schematic of a power wire from the main underhood fuse box running through a relay with outputs to each pod triggered by a lead from the dash switch. My questions are about locations to tap into power for the primary power for the lights and the power for the trigger circuit.

Any and all suggestions and observations would be appreciated. Thanks.

There is a simpler method: Just run a new wire from the headlight connector high beam power to the foglight power.

Add a diode on this new wire (and possibly another upstream of the existing foglight power) to prevent the power from flowing where you don't want it. This will prevent the high beams triggering during normal foglight operation.

It's already fused, and I don't think operation of both the foglights and highbeam flap actuator will draw enough current to overload the existing fuse and wire work.

[Capt Spaulding]

Thanks EA. I hadn't considered that. I'll put it on the list. I'd like to have the option of running the fogs whenever the lights are on, or even make them completely manually controlled. I really appreciate the suggestion.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

Thanks EA. I hadn't considered that. I'll put it on the list. I'd like to have the option of running the fogs whenever the lights are on, or even make them completely manually controlled. I really appreciate the suggestion.

I just finished installing a light bar on my car. It is wired up to the high beam circuit, and controlled by an illuminated toggle switch in the cabin. The switch simply "enables" the light bar, which is then free to come on and off whenever I turn on my high beams. I can't turn it on without the high beams, but that is the way I wanted it; just an auxiliary supplement to the stock high beams.

The light bar itself is powered by a relay (which gets power from the battery), and that relay is triggered by a lead that runs from the high beam circuit in the fuse box, through that switch in the cabin, and then to the relay.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D20GuJV_ng[/ame]

[Stang70Fastback]

@korhun it says you quoted me and replied, but I'm not seeing anything. Weird.

[korhun]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

@korhun it says you quoted me and replied, but I'm not seeing anything. Weird.

OK. I've said something like: "Why would you do that? BRZ's headlight's are more than enough. What if you accidentally turn on your high beams and blind a driver coming towards you?"
Then I decided not to argue, since I hate arguing. And deleted it.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by korhun

OK. I've said something like: "Why would you do that? BRZ's headlight's are more than enough. What if you accidentally turn on your high beams and blind a driver coming towards you?"
Then I decided not to argue, since I hate arguing. And deleted it.

Ahh. Lol. Well the headlights on this car are decent, but when driving at night on un-lit rural roads through forest preserves full of wild animals, more light is always better. Once you experience proper "driving lights", everything else seems useless. I'm very diligent with my high beams, and I only engage the light bar at night on rural roads without much traffic anyway. It's a huge safety benefit, not only because it allows you to see much more clearly at night, but because it does a great job of adding extra definition to the roadway itself, which makes it much easier to spot potholes, or debris on the road too

[korhun]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Ahh. Lol. Well the headlights on this car are decent, but when driving at night on un-lit rural roads through forest preserves full of wild animals, more light is always better. Once you experience proper "driving lights", everything else seems useless. I'm very diligent with my high beams, and I only engage the light bar at night on rural roads without much traffic anyway. It's a huge safety benefit, not only because it allows you to see much more clearly at night, but because it does a great job of adding extra definition to the roadway itself, which makes it much easier to spot potholes, or debris on the road too

Hey, I was expecting a "that's non of your f.in business" kind of answer You're so kind.. Anyway, I'm using it in dark, rural areas almost every night, and love its lights. Just be careful with the rabbits I had met one who likes to stop in the middle of the road and look at the bright lights. Thank god I could stop.

[YamahaR86]

What about those that went FI, where do we mount that giant light bar without blocking the intake?

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by YamahaR86

What about those that went FI, where do we mount that giant light bar without blocking the intake?

Roof mount! Lol. Or just mount it there anyway. I can't imagine it would be an issue unless you were maybe hardcore tracking the car.

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

I just finished installing a light bar on my car. It is wired up to the high beam circuit, and controlled by an illuminated toggle switch in the cabin. The switch simply "enables" the light bar, which is then free to come on and off whenever I turn on my high beams. I can't turn it on without the high beams, but that is the way I wanted it; just an auxiliary supplement to the stock high beams.

The light bar itself is powered by a relay (which gets power from the battery), and that relay is triggered by a lead that runs from the high beam circuit in the fuse box, through that switch in the cabin, and then to the relay.

Actually, it was your post and video that rekindled my interest in doing this. In my part of Texas and particularly out in the far west, it's flat and largely treeless. You can see into next week. I find that I have a hard time over driving the BRZ's high beams. With them on, however, the light pattern narrows and I lose a lot of the roadside coverage.

We have a lot of suicidal deer (white tails, invasive escaped exotics, and mulies), javelina and feral hogs. All of those guys have a nasty habit of jumping in front of vehicles so the pattern width can matter. Hence the choice of fogs over driving beams. This way at least I'll see them before I hit them.

Assuming I can get them aimed correctly, they won't bother other drivers and I can run them whenever the lights are on or, in the event I hit some really dense fog by themselves. Thanks for the inspiration. Depending on how these work out, I may duplicate your "driving light bar behind the grill" approach. Lumen lust knows no bounds.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by korhun

OK. I've said something like: "Why would you do that? BRZ's headlight's are more than enough. What if you accidentally turn on your high beams and blind a driver coming towards you?"
Then I decided not to argue, since I hate arguing. And deleted it.

it's also important to understand the area and country. in america, and in the midwest at the least, more and more people seem to be using their high beams all the time. so while his setup might be more, it's just a natural progression of the headlamp wars that consume our streets!

[D4S BRZ]

So I just realized that my fog lights aren’t turning on. The switch and indicator on the dash work fine but the light themselves don’t turn on. Not sure how long it’s been like this but I just recently noticed it. I don’t think it’s been too long though. For reference it’s a 2013 BRZ with stock fogs/bulbs. Only light mod are the smoked helix, which we haven’t had any problems with and have been in the car forever with no issues. Fuses all checked out fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk