Clutch replacement checklist

[Willy Smith]

Hello to all;
Getting ready to do the clutch on my '13 FR-S. The clutch release bearing has been talking to me for a while now. I'm not shocked. Three previous, (young male) owners w/ some track days, 47K miles, and weak bearings to begin with, (from what I read).

I've done a dozen clutches w/ success, and have read an entry on this site. Seemed thorough, (but I wouldn't re-use a pilot bearing). Watched the job on a couple of youtube vids, doesn't look too bad. Anyway, please feel free to point out anything I'm missing.

New OEM Exedy flywheel, w/ new pilot bearing.
New Exedy stage 1 organic clutch kit.
New OEM flywheel and clutch plate bolts.
New OEM clutch fork retainer springs, (3).
Verus clutch fork / torque solutions billet pivot.
Lucas red & tacky grease.
Enough Motul Gear 300 for trans and rear diff.
Medium strength thread locker.
Bottle jack, floor jack, and transmission jack / lots of stands / two ramps.

And???
Many thanks;
Alan

[BlueLine]

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tungsten_disulfide

I’ll be adding this next time around. You can add the powder right to the diff and transmission.

Make sure you also replace the crush gaskets, and have the correct size hex head/internal wrenching tool

[Willy Smith]

Roger that; big thanks BlueLine.
I have the hex head socket and washers, and a copy of the service manual on pdf.

Man, that tungsten disulfide sounds like amazing stuff! I understood most of those words. Never heard of it, but unless I can find a downside it'll be going in both trans and diff.

[BlueLine]

Originally Posted by Willy Smith

Roger that; big thanks BlueLine.
I have the hex head socket and washers, and a copy of the service manual on pdf.

Man, that tungsten disulfide sounds like amazing stuff! I understood most of those words. Never heard of it, but unless I can find a downside it'll be going in both trans and diff.

[ToySub1946]

May need Bearing Retainer ( the part which surrounds input shaft, front of trans). Other names for this same part: quill, snout.

View about 16 minutes into video.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJEoYAWOPvA[/ame]

[Willy Smith]

Definitely will check the bearing retainer. Hope to smooth and lube, but will replace if necessary.
So, what's the best way / product to get the right amount added? I see everything from expensive industrial sources to this inexpensive stuff on feeBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MICROLUBROL...wAAMXQUmFSiAOZ

[BlueLine]

2 grams per 15oz of fluid is what most recommend. It should also help cut down on rear end noise and whining from the transmission.

Another eBay that backs up that formula https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F131291964433

[toast]

Did you already buy the stage 1 kit? I think it has the worst feel of any clutch I've ever driven - very wide engagement area, my pedal has to be near the floor to totally disengage the clutch and get smooth gear changes and then the pedal is near the top of the travel when doing the engagement and the final engagement point is very abrupt.

You still get the same amount of harmonic vibrations in the driveline as you would with an ACT HD unit. If you need more holding power over the stock clutch (ie you are boosted) then I would get the ACT. If not all you are doing is adding noise and irritation over the stock unit.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by toast

Did you already buy the stage 1 kit? I think it has the worst feel of any clutch I've ever driven - very wide engagement area, my pedal has to be near the floor to totally disengage the clutch and get smooth gear changes and then the pedal is near the top of the travel when doing the engagement and the final engagement point is very abrupt.

You still get the same amount of harmonic vibrations in the driveline as you would with an ACT HD unit. If you need more holding power over the stock clutch (ie you are boosted) then I would get the ACT. If not all you are doing is adding noise and irritation over the stock unit.

It is literally identical to OEM, which is also Exedy, except the pressure plate has thicker gauge steel for the pressure plate splines, so it holds more force. Considering that it uses the stock flywheel and the stock organic, full-face clutch, it feels the most OEM because 90% of it is identical to OEM.

Anytime you wear a flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate surfaces significantly down, a new clutch assembly will be thicker, and thus, the clutch pedal may need to be adjusted. This is normal.

If you haven't done the spring mod then consider that. I don't know if the spring is designed around the force characteristics of the OEM assembly, so a different assembly feels even worse.

To the OP, you need to buy the new MY17+ TOB. I don't know if Exedy has finally replaced the old bearings in their kits like they said they would a long time ago, but just check. If the TOB in the kit has a white dot on it then it is good. Also, check my sig for pics of the install and pics of the snout getting replaced if it helps. If there is scoring on the snout then it should be replaced.

[Willy Smith]

All info appreciated.

I was hoping for a near-stock clutch pedal feel, which is why I went w/ the Exedy. I'll be bummed if my experience is the same as toast's.

Stock motor; no boost. Used as daily driver, w/ occasional outbursts of fun, and some weekend canyon car driving. I'm not rough on clutches, generally.

I never fully believe online reviews, (like on Amazon) but the Exedy stage 1 had lots of positive reviews on various sites. I'd love to hear from anyone who installed one, positive or negative feedback.

I'm also really hoping the, "white spot" on the release bearing is what I'm seeing in the pic. It's one of the main reasons I'm doing this job. Please let me know on that.

Much thanks;
Alan

[Kiske]

Do a MTEC shifter springs while you have it out. A super cheap mod with nice results.

[toast]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

It is literally identical to OEM, which is also Exedy, except the pressure plate has thicker gauge steel for the pressure plate splines, so it holds more force. Considering that it uses the stock flywheel and the stock organic, full-face clutch, it feels the most OEM because 90% of it is identical to OEM.

Anytime you wear a flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate surfaces significantly down, a new clutch assembly will be thicker, and thus, the clutch pedal may need to be adjusted. This is normal.

If you haven't done the spring mod then consider that. I don't know if the spring is designed around the force characteristics of the OEM assembly, so a different assembly feels even worse.

To the OP, you need to buy the new MY17+ TOB. I don't know if Exedy has finally replaced the old bearings in their kits like they said they would a long time ago, but just check. If the TOB in the kit has a white dot on it then it is good. Also, check my sig for pics of the install and pics of the snout getting replaced if it helps. If there is scoring on the snout then it should be replaced.

It absolutely NOT the same thing, I've held them both in my hands. The clutch disc is different. It is missing the 'wide angle damper' that the stock unit has (look at the springs in the clutch disc, there are a pair of different size springs in each hole in the stock unit). This missing damper transmits a LOT more vibrations to the drivetrain; you will hear a substantial hum when decelerating from 3000 rpm.

I know how a clutch works and what needs to be adjusted. The engagement characteristics are fundamentally different than the OEM clutch.

I called Exedy when I did my clutch, they said the only place to get the new TOB is from a Subaru dealer.

[Irace86.2.0]

@Willy Smith

Yes, that dot. An Exedy rep on here said the new TOB would be updated in their kits soon, so it looks like you lucked out


@Kiske

If we are going to advise MTEC shift springs then I would also advice on a Perrin shift bushing and Whiteline transmission bushing. If you haven't upgraded your reverse lockout then this is also the time. Just a note: the transmission bushing will increase NVH, yet if you like the sound of a dog box/straight cut gears, but turned down from 10 to 2-3, then the character of the NVH will be appreciated.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by toast

It absolutely NOT the same thing, I've held them both in my hands. The clutch disc is different. It is missing the 'wide angle damper' that the stock unit has (look at the springs in the clutch disc, there are a pair of different size springs in each hole in the stock unit). This missing damper transmits a LOT more vibrations to the drivetrain; you will hear a substantial hum when decelerating from 3000 rpm.

I know how a clutch works and what needs to be adjusted. The engagement characteristics are fundamentally different than the OEM clutch.

I called Exedy when I did my clutch, they said the only place to get the new TOB is from a Subaru dealer.

From this thread:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...edy+tob&page=2

This post:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=19

His has the white dot, so I'm assuming they finally updated their kits like they said they would.

I installed the Exedy Stage 1, but I couldn't really tell a difference besides the springs. They looked identical to me, but you're probably right. I do hear a hum when I let of the gas while decelerating. I kinda like it though. All I know is that it feels like stock and it holds 12psi from my Harrop kit on E85.

Here is my stock one:



I never took a pic of the new one, but here they are from speed factory, but those could be generic pics:

OEM



Stage 1