Towing your 86

[jmimac351]

Originally Posted by philooo

Be careful with the Macs strap I linked to earlier.

They are the greatest strap quality, but the hook are a little too big for the front transport "loop" under the front. they do hook and close but they are very thick and when you add tension to the strap they will not be able to stay aligned with the strap, they will be "trapped inside the transport hook" . I'll try to get a pic to illustrate. Hard to explain

Good to know. On the front, I'm using a strap with this style hook. On the rear I'm using T-hooks with the spring loaded clasp. I found that the T-Hooks do not like this style hook.

[redlined600]

Just came across this, https://www.autohaulersupply.com/cat...color-5206.php

I think I'll switch to the t-hook method for the rear, I can just adapt these to my current ratchets.

[gatorac]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Edit*
Here is what the manual recommends

Do this. The angle on the straps from these points allows the car to ride a bit on it's suspension. Pulling on wheels and control arms puts stress on the bushings. The T-hooks are cheap enough. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Pierce-Sales-Arrow-Towing-T-Hook/dp/B0000AXA6N/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458003697&sr=8-1&keywords=t+hook"]Amazon.com: Pierce Arrow Towing T-Hook: Automotive[/ame]

[philooo]

I'll check this weekend but I am pretty sure my aero under panel are covering this holes

[frssfo]

I installed e-track on the bed of my trailer and got straps that go over the tires to secure them in place. That way the FR-S can move on it's own suspension and movement won't loosen anything up. Total cost for the e-track, fasteners and straps was less than $200. I've been towing for about 9 months now with zero issues.

Just remember not to leave the tires strapped down for a long period of time, otherwise it'll flat-spot the tire and it takes a few laps to round it out again.



got them from Auto Hauler Supply

[JimR]

My nag for wheel straps only is that a suspension free to move is cycling the dampers and bushings, even when stationary on the trailer. If you have pimpy suspension bits installed and tow a lot of miles, your investment is seeing wear before it even hits the track.

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by JimR

My nag for wheel straps only is that a suspension free to move is cycling the dampers and bushings, even when stationary on the trailer. If you have pimpy suspension bits installed and tow a lot of miles, your investment is seeing wear before it even hits the track.

All the ways people are strapping the cars down will have suspension movement. So, this is really a non-issue.

[JimR]

I bought some 2" snap hook ratcheting straps from U.S. Cargo Control in Iowa, and have towed my FR-S a couple of times with them now. The snap hooks fit the front eyelets fine, and the materials seem to be substantial. The ratchets work and release without balking. They also offer several colors, and I bought red to match my two red cars (for that trailer steeze/hard towing).

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratche...Ratchet-Straps

For the back, I bought some Mac's T-bolts. The castings were different on the exact same part numbers, and one didn't fit the tie-down slot on the car without ludicrous force and dexterity. I guess one of the molds used left some excess material on the "spine." Just a touch on the bench grinder made it fit the car fine.

[ka-t_240]

Well.... I ordered the rennlist tie downs posted earlier in this post to mount on the rear subframe.

I was finally able to get my car out of storage, and had a nice enough day to try and load the BRZ on our new trailer. It went pretty easy, now to make some nice, "adapter ramps" to make loading easier and buy some new straps(Haven't found anything under 25ft at the local stores).

Trailer was made by Rice Trailers, 16+Dovetail(its a bit over 2 feet). has Built in tool box, flip up jack, d-rings welded on the front, diamond plate dove tail with d-rings welded, 5ft ramps, solid headace rack(should help with rocks) and full LED lighting. Got it brand new for just under $3k.

[JimR]

My pollen-covered towing setup:



I have a Big Tex 70DM 18-foot steel open car hauler that was about $3k from a place in town a few years ago. Nice wide, theft-proof ramps, but I had to make helper ramps out of 2x10 boards to keep from scraping the lower fascia on my lowered FR-S. Straps lengthwise in front to factory eyelets, crossed in back to T-bolt holes. Third trip now and tows solid.

[redlined600]

So I'm really striking out finding a trailer for an event in July. Has anyone rented a Uhaul trailer before and had luck getting on and off it? My car is lowered just over an inch. Are they usually decent or total piles of sh1t?

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by redlined600

So I'm really striking out finding a trailer for an event in July. Has anyone rented a Uhaul trailer before and had luck getting on and off it? My car is lowered just over an inch. Are they usually decent or total piles of sh1t?

Coming to NASA at BIR?

Are you wanting to buy at all, or just rent/borrow?

Uhaul trailers are a Pain in the ass. We had to lift a r32 gtr with stock suspension up to get the bumper over the front.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Coming to NASA at BIR?

Are you wanting to buy at all, or just rent/borrow?

Uhaul trailers are a Pain in the ass. We had to lift a r32 gtr with stock suspension up to get the bumper over the front.

Road America

Not looking to buy until we move to somewhere with more room.

Anyone with experience with loading a twin on a uhaul?

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Road America

Not looking to buy until we move to somewhere with more room.

Anyone with experience with loading a twin on a uhaul?

I would be doable, but I would expect to need some 2x6/8/10 to be sure, or to clear the bumper.