Automatic Transmission Fluid Change

[KoolBRZ]

Like @kndonlee said, "Actually reading it through, they wrote the instructions really obtusely.

Basically, it's 3x drain/overfills @ 2.1Quarts. So you'll need 6.3 US Quarts.

drain/overfill, engine on, Park to M & back
drain/overfill, engine on, Park to M & back
drain/overfill, bring oil to "proper" (42deg C) temp, & drain through overflow until it's thin as a thread.
tighten everything to spec.

The instructions are obtuse because of the jumping around and slight differences in procedures on the first, second and third drain & overfills."

[Euro7R]

I am at 13,000 miles (3 years owning car). I am planning to change mines out in the spring/summer in 2016. I have never followed what the book says/recommends for their oil change intervals. It's really a matter of personal preference, no harm in changing earlier.

It appears that the AT oil change isn't as simple as the MT, drain and fill? Looks like have to drain, fill and drain and fill, to properly get as much of the old oil out.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Like @kndonlee said, "Actually reading it through, they wrote the instructions really obtusely.

Basically, it's 3x drain/overfills @ 2.1Quarts. So you'll need 6.3 US Quarts.

drain/overfill, engine on, Park to M & back
drain/overfill, engine on, Park to M & back
drain/overfill, bring oil to "proper" (42deg C) temp, & drain through overflow until it's thin as a thread.
tighten everything to spec.

The instructions are obtuse because of the jumping around and slight differences in procedures on the first, second and third drain & overfills."

Originally Posted by Euro7R

I am at 13,000 miles (3 years owning car). I am planning to change mines out in the spring/summer in 2016. I have never followed what the book says/recommends for their oil change intervals. It's really a matter of personal preference, no harm in changing earlier.

It appears that the AT oil change isn't as simple as the MT, drain and fill? Looks like have to drain, fill and drain and fill, to properly get as much of the old oil out.

@KoolBRZ has got it right, they want you to do that because old ATF is still in the torque converter doing this repeatedly flushes all of that out.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by kaede1337

I might have missed it somewhere but how atf do i put in when i drain it? As much as it came out or is there a specific amount? I plan putting the car on stands and waiting overnight to do it

Inspect every 30k replace if neccessary, but definitely replace every 60k, honestly I would replace at 30k

[phrosty]

Could probably do a single overfill/drain every 15k and be fine.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by phrosty

Could probably do a single overfill/drain every 15k and be fine.

That's over doing it I believe....

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by phrosty

Could probably do a single overfill/drain every 15k and be fine.

The point of repeated fills is to replace as much of the old fluid as possible. I'm doing it tomorrow, and every 30,000 afterwards. I'm currently at 45,000.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The point of repeated fills is to replace as much of the old fluid as possible. I'm doing it tomorrow, and every 30,000 afterwards. I'm currently at 45,000.

What fluid are you using? And is the diff being done as well?

[KoolBRZ]

First I leveled the car on jack stands and ramps. Drained, filled with 2.1 quarts, ran in P-R-N-D-M-D-N-R-P, drained, filled, ran in P-R-N-D-M-D-N-R-P, drained and filled again. Now, the final adjustment has to be done at 42 degrees centigrade. If you don't have the Subaru Select Monitor, You need to use the method I used. According to the manual, see pic, I have to short circuit terminals 13 and 4 with a jumper, (paper clip), start the engine, run in P-R-N-D-M-D-N-R-P, then quickly switch, (under 1.5 seconds) between Neutral and Drive, for a minimum of 6 seconds, to get into ATF temp check mode. Both shift indicators will light up for 2 seconds to indicate temp check mode is engaged, then they will turn off. Then I put it into Park and let it idle while I pull the jumper out of pins 13 and 4. Hopefully then I will see only the shift indicator which points down, because that means the ATF is still too cold to check. If I see the indicator pointing up, or both indicators, then I have to shut it off and wait for it to cool down. If it is still too cold to check, then I just let it idle and watch the indicators until I see them both on, then I can shut off my car and pull the plug from the overflow tube, waiting until it flows thin as a thread. Cap it, torque it, reinstall the cover and test drive it. Simple as...... no, wait, this isn't simple. If you can get this done for under $100, save yourself the hassle and have it done.

[KoolBRZ]

Edit. My car warmed up with the downshift arrow on until it went out. Tried it twice. It never went from down arrow to both arrows. It went from down arrow to no arrow. Drained to a thread, buttoned it up and test drove 10 miles. Shifts better now

[Estey]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Edit. My car warmed up with the downshift arrow on until it went out. Tried it twice. It never went from down arrow to both arrows. It went from down arrow to no arrow. Drained to a thread, buttoned it up and test drove 10 miles. Shifts better now

Can you show me how to short out those terminals? I have no idea on how to go about it. And is this the unit on the transmission itself?

[KoolBRZ]

Sure. First slide the drivers seat back. Now step outside the car. With your back to the car, lean back and slide in the car on your back until you can push the gas pedal with the top of your head. Open your eyes and look up. Right there is your OBD2 connector. The pic I posted earlier with the numbers on it from 1-8, and from 9-16 is it. This is just how it looks from below. Now get back out of the car because you forgot to get a paper-clip first. Bend the paper-clip into a U shape. Make one of the legs of the U a little longer than the other one. Insert the longer end into the 4th hole from the left side of the fatter end, that's hole number 4, then, (here's why one end is longer) swing the U shaped paper-clip while it's partially in hole number 4 around so the other end is over hole number 13, (that's the 4th hole from the right side of the skinnier end of the connector), push and wiggle until both ends are in holes numbered 4 and 13 in the pic i posted previously. Now slide back out, start up your car. You'll immediately notice the check engine light flashing. Follow the instructions going through the gears again, then do the shifter thing moving between "N" and "D" quickly with your foot on the brakes. Eventually the shift up and down lights will come on, indicating you are in "Oil amount adjustment" mode. Shift it into Park. Leave the engine running. Pull out the paper-clip. Watch the shift indicators. If you see the indicator pointing up, or if you see both indicators, your car is too warm. Shut off your car and wait at least 30 minutes before you try again. When you can pull out the paper clip and just see the shift indicator pointing down then it is too cool to measure, but watch and wait as your car warms up. As soon as both lights come on, slide out and underneath your car, remove the overflow plug and drain until it comes out thin as a thread. reinstall plug with new metal compression washer, reinstall refill plug with new rubber O-ring, slide out and shut off your car. Yes it was supposed to be running this whole time.
I just realized this while I was typing this up. I didn't print out that part of the instructions and now I have to do it again. !@#%&* I drained it while my car was off. See pic below and instruction number 9. It does say start the engine. It never says to turn off the engine, it just says turn ignition to off.

[Estey]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Sure. First slide the drivers seat back. Now step outside the car. With your back to the car, lean back and slide in the car on your back until you can push the gas pedal with the top of your head. Open your eyes and look up. Right there is your OBD2 connector. The pic I posted earlier with the numbers on it from 1-8, and from 9-16 is it. This is just how it looks from below. Now get back out of the car because you forgot to get a paper-clip first. Bend the paper-clip into a U shape. Make one of the legs of the U a little longer than the other one. Insert the longer end into the 4th hole from the left side of the fatter end, that's hole number 4, then, (here's why one end is longer) swing the U shaped paper-clip while it's partially in hole number 4 around so the other end is over hole number 13, (that's the 4th hole from the right side of the skinnier end of the connector), push and wiggle until both ends are in holes numbered 4 and 13 in the pic i posted previously. Now slide back out, start up your car. You'll immediately notice the check engine light flashing. Follow the instructions going through the gears again, then do the shifter thing moving between "N" and "D" quickly with your foot on the brakes. Eventually the shift up and down lights will come on, indicating you are in "Oil amount adjustment" mode. Shift it into Park. Leave the engine running. Pull out the paper-clip. Watch the shift indicators. If you see the indicator pointing up, or if you see both indicators, your car is too warm. Shut off your car and wait at least 30 minutes before you try again. When you can pull out the paper clip and just see the shift indicator pointing down then it is too cool to measure, but watch and wait as your car warms up. As soon as both lights come on, slide out and underneath your car, remove the overflow plug and drain until it comes out thin as a thread. reinstall plug with new metal compression washer, reinstall refill plug with new rubber O-ring, slide out and shut off your car. Yes it was supposed to be running this whole time.
I just realized this while I was typing this up. I didn't print out that part of the instructions and now I have to do it again. !@#%&* I drained it while my car was off. See pic below and instruction number 9. It does say start the engine. It never says to turn off the engine, it just says turn ignition to off.

Thank you! this was super informative. I already changed 8 quarts out with redline, but I couldnt figure out how the hell to short the terminals lol, so I just played the temp by ear. But I intend to to another 8 quarts anyways, so I can get most of the oem fluid out. This time ill be able to do it 100% correct
I didnt drain while the car was running either.. oh well, its a learning experience. no harm no fowl

[shr133]

Yeah change it every 30K if you drive easy...
I bought mine mine with 36K and the fluid was dark..

I also changed the fluid on my tacoma at 30K and it was dark..
used amsoil...

I flushed myself replaced 8 qts...
I may drain the pan once a year from now on...

replaced with 6 qts of redline D6 and 2 qts of redline D4

Shifts much better, firmer shifts...

I like the redline better than the amsoil....

Also changed out the rear diff and was really dark also....