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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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03-26-2021, 01:42 PM | #15 |
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In the US, you can drive either regardless of which your test car has in it. You can also pass the test in most US states in an automatic with almost zero training, so there is that.
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03-26-2021, 02:41 PM | #16 | |
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03-26-2021, 02:46 PM | #17 | |
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
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03-26-2021, 03:35 PM | #18 |
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It’s in the CV’s as Ultra mentioned. I have a one piece in my car and it marginally effected the amount of lash. If anything there is now a much more pronounced thunk. It’s really noticeable in reverse when I am modulating the clutch.
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03-26-2021, 03:58 PM | #19 |
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Okay, here's my serious answer:
This is really an inherent trait of MOST manual transmissions, and only a problem to the one who PERCEIVES it to be a problem. An automatic transmission has a torque converter to prevent your engine from stalling when you approach a stop. In a manual transmission vehicle, your foot, through the clutch pedal, hydraulic lines, clutch fork, throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate, has to substitute as that torque converter. A driver will eventually become accustomed to how his vehicle responds to his commands and his vehicle will let him know when it is time to operate the pedal. If your car jerks, you can always just SLIGHTLY engage the clutch until it stops. You don't have to push it in all the way, and it's not going to hurt anything at low speeds as long as you're not revving the engine up while performing the manuver. Once you get the car to stop jerking, then release it a bit more until you find a smooth spot where it doesn't jerk anymore. I think this is why enthusiasts prefer driving manual transmissions. It forces you to become more INVOLVED in the act of driving. But really, if you just get up a few MPH (or KPH) you can just shift to second and not have to deal with it. |
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03-26-2021, 05:27 PM | #20 |
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I'm pretty sure the OP is asking about lurching while in 1st gear and the clutch engaged (i.e. the pedal is not depressed). This happens due to the high gear ratio of 1st gear (with the Twins, particularly the 2017+ ones, having a very tall 1st gear), translating small throttle inputs into large vehicle movements. This tapers off rapidly as you go up in gears, barely showing in 2nd and not at all in 3rd and higher. The same typically happens in reverse as well to a lesser degree, since reverse is usually between 1st and 2nd in ratio in most cars (but closer to 1st).
The best advice is to be smooth with the throttle in 1st and reverse, especially when coming on and coming off the throttle - don't stamp on the pedal, instead gradually apply pressure or reduce pressure. |
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