Changing spark plugs

[JFunk]

Originally Posted by takethecake

I changed my plugs on sunday at ~58k miles, took me about 7 hours to do that and an oil change. I think it'll take me 3 if I have to do it again - I'll be able to make sure I have all the sockets/extensions/adapters I need.



This came in handy for unbolting the screws holding the coil packs on. Also the telescoping magnet on a stick is a must - if you drop shit all the time like I do, you might even want to take off the metal underbody panel protecting the transmission/exhaust so everything just falls on the ground lol..



ALSO, I just ordered some thin kevlar gloves and heat sleeves - my arms and hands are covered in little cuts and scrapes.

You think you can show me all the tools you used ?


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[seant2h]

I changed my plugs yesterday at 100,056 miles and it took me, an amature wrencher, under 3 hours. The motor is simple to raise up after you remove 2- 14mm nuts and it raises up easily and gives you much more room to work. I found the left, drivers, side to be harder than the right when it was jacked up. My secret weapon was a short magnetic extension that was used to remove and screw in the spark plug initially. See the pics below for the tools I used and what my 100,000 mile plugs look like. I just realized I forgot to include the extendable magnet tool that was also very important in getting it done.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by seant2h

I changed my plugs yesterday at 100,056 miles............ ]

Could you tell much difference between the old ones and new ones, as far as electrode erosion .. ??


humfrz

[Black Tire]

Is everyone here using a light coat of anti-sieze on the spark plug threads before installing?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Black Tire

Is everyone here using a light coat of anti-sieze on the spark plug threads before installing?

You couldn't find that everyone here puts their pants on one leg at a time ......

I never have used anti-seize on spark plugs and I've never had a plug I couldn't get out.

Besides, that stuff messes with my built in, calibrated wrist, "spark plug tight" bio-sensor.


humfrz

[Black Tire]

Originally Posted by humfrz

You couldn't find that everyone here puts their pants on one leg at a time ......

I never have used anti-seize on spark plugs and I've never had a plug I couldn't get out.

Besides, that stuff messes with my built in, calibrated wrist, "spark plug tight" bio-sensor.


humfrz

Here in the land of winter and road salt, I tend to use anti-seize on a lot of fasteners and threads, and especially on lug nuts. I will be using anti-seize when I install my new spark plugs within a month or two.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Black Tire

Here in the land of winter and road salt, I tend to use anti-seize on a lot of fasteners and threads, and especially on lug nuts. I will be using anti-seize when I install my new spark plugs within a month or two.

I have read that some manufactures of some spark plugs (usually the nickel coated ones), recommend NOT using anti-seize ........

You may wish to look into that and take that under consideration.


humfrz

[Urmyson]

Originally Posted by seant2h

I changed my plugs yesterday at 100,056 miles and it took me, an amature wrencher, under 3 hours. The motor is simple to raise up after you remove 2- 14mm nuts and it raises up easily and gives you much more room to work. I found the left, drivers, side to be harder than the right when it was jacked up. My secret weapon was a short magnetic extension that was used to remove and screw in the spark plug initially. See the pics below for the tools I used and what my 100,000 mile plugs look like. I just realized I forgot to include the extendable magnet tool that was also very important in getting it done.

Those plugs don't look to bad for 100k, could you tell any difference after the change?

[BRZnut]

would be interesting to see a pic of the tip of the old next to the new plugs. But as stated above, for 100K they don't look too bad.

[seant2h]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

would be interesting to see a pic of the tip of the old next to the new plugs. But as stated above, for 100K they don't look too bad.

Here you go...

[seant2h]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

Those plugs don't look to bad for 100k, could you tell any difference after the change?

When I changed the plugs I also switched back to the OEM header & tune, cleaned the K&N air filter and did an oil change so it's not Apples to apples. That said, my car is running great after all of that work.

[DJCarbine]

Just did mine, an hour and a half. Passenger side remove ECU driver. Driver side remove fuel line plastic clip (3 lines) and injector cover. Didn't need anything special, just a 14mm deep well, 3" 3/8 drive extension.

They key is not to push any of the socket stuff together enough for them to clip together with the ball detent. Just put the 14mm deep well on the plug, loosely insert the extension, and get the end of the extension with the ratchet. Don't let any of the pieces click together, you only need to turn it enough to break loose the plugs. Once the plug is broken loose, I used some fuel hose to remove them.

Slightly harder than my WRX, but same basic principle. And the coil harness plug/clips are easier on the FRS.

[Gen3MR2]

Great write up.

I just did mine like this and it took me 3 hours total. I was working slow also.

I used a 3/8" drive deepwell 9/16" socket attached to a 3/8" drive reduced to 1/4" drive to a short 1/4" extension to a 1/4" drive ratchet. This seemed to be the best. I tried 3/8" tools and couldn't fit them in there.

I had the reducer clipped onto the socket and inserted it, then I clipped the extension on with the ratchet. Used a screw driver to remove the extension from the ratchet and the extension from the reducer since I can't grab both at the same time.

[D K]

Originally Posted by stevesnj

This is just crazy to replace spark plugs. This is probably the biggest downfall of the boxer design.

I can think of MANY others