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Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods.


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Old 01-24-2017, 01:51 PM   #15
switchlanez
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That is what I was concerned about. I have seen other guys mentioned that there might be some shaking after putting it on. But prob they haven't done it in right way. So the part comes with instructions then I think there wouldn't be problem.
I can see how people wouldn't install it correctly if they didn't have all the proper tools and/or didn't torque everything correctly. The one tool I didn't have and ordered on Amazon beforehand is the 7mm ball ended hex socket. That and the extensions are needed for a few bolts that are tricky to access and torque down all the way but possible if you have all the tools called out in the instructions and some persistence.

Here are the instructions with a tools checklist: http://www.billswebspace.com/PTR54-18130inst.pdf
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:01 PM   #16
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Lol what is the story behind it? I am thinking about doing some quickshifter mod but I just bought the car so I'd rather put on some stock parts like TRD instead of aftermarket, even tho I know some of them are even better than TRD. Any thoughts?
The design is critically flawed. I wrote about my experience here. Funny, I remember that thread differently, like I unloaded a lot more than I did. Maybe I wrote more elsewhere.

I cannot endorse the adapter. If your heart is set on a short shifter, I recommend the Kartboy or the JDM TRD lever.
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:25 PM   #17
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The design is critically flawed. I wrote about my experience here. Funny, I remember that thread differently, like I unloaded a lot more than I did. Maybe I wrote more elsewhere.

I cannot endorse the adapter. If your heart is set on a short shifter, I recommend the Kartboy or the JDM TRD lever.
+1 I think I would have preferred the JDM TRD shifter as well, even though it cost more.

Thought he STI looks more convenient to order [SpeedFactory].
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:50 PM   #18
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+1 I think I would have preferred the JDM TRD shifter as well, even though it cost more.

Thought he STI looks more convenient to order [SpeedFactory].
I lol'ed at the price, but for peace of mind is worth it
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:40 PM   #19
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Great mod with straightforward instructions if you prepare all the tools called out. I think there was a typo is one step with a direction reversed (either left/right or front/rear) but it will become obvious.

I already had the STI short shift lever (identical to the JDM TRD short shift lever) prior and felt there was still some slop after the transmission warmed up that could be cleaned up. This USDM TRD quickshifter bracket tightened it up with the right amount of notchy, positive feel.
How is the slop compared to stock? I would say stock is pretty good enough for me right now.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:00 PM   #20
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How is the slop compared to stock? I would say stock is pretty good enough for me right now.
Any lash comes from inside the transmission. Unless the bushings are blown out, the linkage is plenty tight. Short shifter decreases the overall throw so it has the same effect on how lash is perceived.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:07 PM   #21
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Any lash comes from inside the transmission. Unless the bushings are blown out, the linkage is plenty tight. Short shifter decreases the overall throw so it has the same effect on how lash is perceived.
Thanks a lot! I've seen your previous comments in other thread. So basically I give up on TRD quickshifter right now and am looking for alternatives. JDM seems legit and how about IRP SHORT SHIFTER? Any ideas?
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:01 AM   #22
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Thanks a lot! I've seen your previous comments in other thread. So basically I give up on TRD quickshifter right now and am looking for alternatives. JDM seems legit and how about IRP SHORT SHIFTER? Any ideas?
It looks really nice but I have no practical experience with it. I suggest checking out your regional sub-forum. I'll bet you can hook up with someone close to you that has some type installed. It's worth experiencing before buying because the change is pretty drastic.
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:40 AM   #23
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How is the slop compared to stock? I would say stock is pretty good enough for me right now.
Stock slop and JDM short shift lever slop are not noticeable when cold. Only when the transmission is warmed up either starts to feel mushy with less mush remaining on the shorter lever.
TRD short shift bracket eliminates that remaining mush so a warmed up transmission feels the same as when cold but still easier to slide into 1st/2nd when warm. I don't aggressively slam the gas regularly enough to induce lash from the driveshaft so can't comment in that regard.

That other thread bashes the TRD bracket pretty brutally lol. Wonder if everyone tightened down the 7mm hex adapter bolt (the culprit to everyone's problem) til their torque wrench clicked like step 3c says. In my first attempt at tightening it reached a point where it stopped regressing down the hole and got quite resistant to turn. Almost felt I should stop tightening because I might strip it and was tight enough to move on to the next step. But the torque wrench not clicking bothered me so I took the adapter off and found an O-ring clogging the hole as noted in the instructions:

"Note: There is an OE O-ring installed inside the shift lever lower end, which will provide some resistance to the adapter bolt going through. If this occurs, turn the bolt and the bolt thread will pull the bolt through the shift lever lower end. The bolt should thread into the adapter and torque down properly."

People like @Ultramaroon also seemed to have clearance issues and alignment problems with that bolt seating cock-eyed. Maybe my JDM short lever alleviated that because the adapter bolt threaded straight in. Probably the easiest out of all bolts to torque down after I sild the O-ring further past the threads.
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:55 PM   #24
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Stock slop and JDM short shift lever slop are not noticeable when cold. Only when the transmission is warmed up either starts to feel mushy with less mush remaining on the shorter lever.
TRD short shift bracket eliminates that remaining mush so a warmed up transmission feels the same as when cold but still easier to slide into 1st/2nd when warm. I don't aggressively slam the gas regularly enough to induce lash from the driveshaft so can't comment in that regard.

That other thread bashes the TRD bracket pretty brutally lol. Wonder if everyone tightened down the 7mm hex adapter bolt (the culprit to everyone's problem) til their torque wrench clicked like step 3c says. In my first attempt at tightening it reached a point where it stopped regressing down the hole and got quite resistant to turn. Almost felt I should stop tightening because I might strip it and was tight enough to move on to the next step. But the torque wrench not clicking bothered me so I took the adapter off and found an O-ring clogging the hole as noted in the instructions:

"Note: There is an OE O-ring installed inside the shift lever lower end, which will provide some resistance to the adapter bolt going through. If this occurs, turn the bolt and the bolt thread will pull the bolt through the shift lever lower end. The bolt should thread into the adapter and torque down properly."

People like @Ultramaroon also seemed to have clearance issues and alignment problems with that bolt seating cock-eyed. Maybe my JDM short lever alleviated that because the adapter bolt threaded straight in. Probably the easiest out of all bolts to torque down after I sild the O-ring further past the threads.
If you can get a torque wrench in there without the car on a lift, I'll follow your instruction, but I installed on jackstands in a garage, and my tq. wrench it like 24" long. There is no way I was getting a torque wrench in there. Secondly, it was nearly impossible to get the allen socket in the bolt, much less with a wrench on it.
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Old 01-25-2017, 03:39 PM   #25
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I found that a 7mm hex bolt was pretty damn impossible to locate, so I just used a 9/32 Allen/hex bit that came with my cheapo socket set.
Worked perfectly with my ratchet (albeit with a slight angle) - I pretty much torqued it down as much as I could (as noted by @JohnJuan, it's almost impossible to fit a torque wrench in there - besides, my torque wrench has a minimum of 10lb/ft and I think instructions called for 7-8lb/ft).

One thing I did notice: It seems many people who had issues with the TRD getting loose, did not apply loctite. You must apply loctite to get it locked in (no pun intended). You don't have to drown the threads in it, but at least get a few threads with loctite so that it provides enough resistance to prevent vibrations from knocking the thing loose.
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Old 01-25-2017, 03:50 PM   #26
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If you can get a torque wrench in there without the car on a lift, I'll follow your instruction, but I installed on jackstands in a garage, and my tq. wrench it like 24" long. There is no way I was getting a torque wrench in there. Secondly, it was nearly impossible to get the allen socket in the bolt, much less with a wrench on it.
I worked with only 2 jack stands (https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43004-...ds=jack+stands) in front at their tallest setting and there was sufficient space to torque with the wrench lever staying more parallel than perpendicular to the ground. You can use a regular small ratchet to tighten most of it then switch to the torque wrench with enough angle to tighten at least 1 click for the final turn. I used this 3/8" drive 5-80 ft. lbs. torque wrench: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rench-807.html, and this rounded (like the instructions call for, NOT squared) 7mm hex bit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RYT942A...ywords=7mm+hex. They look similar in size to what's pictured in the instructions.





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Old 01-25-2017, 04:44 PM   #27
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Folks, please vote in this new poll: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114885
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Old 01-25-2017, 07:05 PM   #28
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You'll hear all the stories how it's a bad design and blah blah blah but it's a good part when installed exactly as instructed. The one thing is the lack of sufficient loctite on the bolt. Had mine on coming up on 2 years with no issue.
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