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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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08-13-2019, 11:36 AM | #57 | |
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The great thing with this platform is that you can start to approach the track with the car almost stock. Pads, oil, brake lines and tires and you are good to go IMHO. If you can pace yourself, this car gives you the opportunity to learn a lot because is simple and really communicative. If you start with slicks, bbk, more power ecc. ecc. ignoring the fact that it may be dangerous, a lot of the root causes of your mistakes are not clear. (wrong braking technique for example). I've started with that config, and upgraded when it stopped being enough. Now i'm running 265,ap racing (made by a company named essex, btw if you don't know them check out their website!! great products), more power, cooling ecc. ecc. It is a journey as it should be for every car you track independently of your experience. And yes I'm slow driver, no offense! taken I still pay for my track days, cars, mods, tires and gas. When you are fast usually you are getting payed. |
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09-13-2019, 05:49 AM | #58 |
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Short review of the new setup (Stoptech slotted rotors, Carbotech XP10 pads - front only - Stoptech brake lines all around and same Castrol SRF).
During the pad's bed-in period the squealing was unbearable. This process took quite a long time, up to 600 miles of mixed driving (20% city, the rest up in the mountains). Now, after more than 1k miles it seems to be a bit less noisy and I hope that's the case because they are bedded in properly and not because the outside temps have dropped in the last 2 weeks. Up the mountains they behave great, lot's more feedback, no issues whatsoever. On the track however there's an obvious tendency on straight hard braking for the back to slide around quite a lot. This was not the case before and my guess is because of the different pads in the back (yellowstuff). Also, the difference in feedback is not obvious on hard braking (and this is the case on most corners). Maybe there should not be any difference or I'm still to new in this and unable to see it, or maybe I did not pushed them hard enough for the difference to became obvious. Lap times are on par with those from my last trackday so I'm a bit disappointed. Ar least I'm more confident in my brakes. I'll keep the pads for now, but I think I'll try something different next time (mostly because of the noise). Next on my list were Club Racer and DTC-60, does anyone know how these compare (noise wise) with XP10? P.S. worth mentioning is that this time I did some cooling laps every 5 minutes or so |
09-13-2019, 07:09 AM | #59 | |
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Look up bedding track brake pads. |
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to new2subaru For This Useful Post: | churchx (09-13-2019), CounterSpace Garage (09-13-2019), Pat (09-13-2019), Tristor (09-13-2019), wparsons (09-13-2019) |
09-13-2019, 07:50 AM | #60 |
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+1. Track pads have high working temps. Normal daily driving rarely heat them up to those. If anything, one of main reasons for many track pads to squeal is for daily driving light braking pattern to wear down bedded layer from rotors in few days, thus asking for rebedding from time to time if one chooses using track pads all the time.
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09-13-2019, 12:28 PM | #61 |
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Normal street pads you would drive a ton of miles and they naturally bed themselves.
Track pads you need to be quite the lunatic but it only takes 10 min. Accelerate to 60mph in 2nd gear. Slam on the brakes with 70% force until you slow down to 10mph. Do this 5 times in a row. Yes you will look like a crazy person so do this somewhere private. DO NOT come to a full stop as this may damage your rotors. Make a U turn on the road you were on and do the same thing but at 100% braking force (do not engage ABS as this’ll fuck it up too). Once you’ve done your 5 100% braking force 60-10mph brake runs drive around for 20 min (no full stops) to let the brakes properly cool. I say 5 times as a general guideline as this depends entirely on your brake compound and tires. 200tw tires get the brakes to proper temp quickly when braking hard, but it may take more than 5 brake runs with a true track pad. I like to do it until I can smell the brakes. Sometimes you can see sparks shoot out which is normal. |
The Following User Says Thank You to norcalpb For This Useful Post: | Tristor (09-13-2019) |
09-13-2019, 12:40 PM | #62 |
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And now some eye candy instead of text
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdPX6rzuINc[/ame] |
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09-13-2019, 01:01 PM | #63 |
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I find it hilarious that race tracks say absolutely no bedding on track. So where do they expect you to do it without the risk of getting pulled over??
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The Following User Says Thank You to norcalpb For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (09-13-2019) |
09-13-2019, 01:15 PM | #65 |
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BTW, regarding brake bedding topic - why not keep pressing accelerator simultaneously while braking? In most cars brake torque is way more then engine torque, and it will still slow down, also engine torque = less chance to lock up brakes, shouldn't it ease putting same amount of heat vs just braking in fewer iterations of slowdowns and from lesser top speeds? Or how about floored accel pedal at low gear to maximize torque, and mid-brake just about for constant speed .. shouldn't it also continuously just build up more and more heat in single cycle? Anybody know of possible illeffects of using engine torque during bedding, why such way is not mentioned in most bedding instructions?
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09-13-2019, 01:39 PM | #66 | ||
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Unpredictable braking down to slow speeds will cause a crash in a HUGE hurry on a track. Quote:
In the paddock, or on a brake dyno (you can buy pre-bedded rotors/pads from race shops).
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09-13-2019, 01:41 PM | #67 |
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no need to overstress the drivetrain since brake pads for racecars go on racecars that may have powertrains that aren't super durable
Also many modern ECU's cut power when brake and gas are applied simultaneously due to the Prius accidents like 15 years ago, it wouldn't be possible on a lot cars. Also @biggie get XP10's for the rear as well, it will totally fix the instability, and agreed that you didn't properly bed them in until you started doing laps. Yes they don't feel radically different but you should be able to use them harder and longer than what you had before. |
The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | DarkSunrise (09-13-2019) |
09-13-2019, 01:56 PM | #68 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to NoHaveMSG For This Useful Post: | wparsons (09-13-2019) |
09-13-2019, 03:29 PM | #69 |
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09-13-2019, 03:36 PM | #70 | |
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If I had to guess, dragging the brakes may create too much heat in the rotors to develop a transfer layer, but I dunno |
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