KPower Industries K24 swap

[RedReplicant]

I think I might have gotten mixed up with some Miata people or something since I also travel in those circles, my mistake

I'm glad I didn't go through a dealer since I had the opportunity, just didn't see the point

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I think I might have gotten mixed up with some Miata people or something since I also travel in those circles, my mistake

I'm glad I didn't go through a dealer since I had the opportunity, just didn't see the point

I am a bit surprised they are still 45-60 days or more out on delivery. At this point I would expect them to have a small surplus to fulfill orders.

[Ebush]

Just got word from David at kpower that the fuel level issue has been fixed. We just need to wait for Haltech to release a firmware update. Kpower will send out an email to everyone when the firmware is available.

[captain awesome]

Glad to hear that. I’ve had a couple close calls lately.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Ebush

Just got word from David at kpower that the fuel level issue has been fixed. We just need to wait for Haltech to release a firmware update. Kpower will send out an email to everyone when the firmware is available.

Oh god. Firmware update…scary

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Glad to hear that. I’ve had a couple close calls lately.

I have a 5gal can of E85 in the trunk. I would like to offload that.

[captain awesome]

Finally got my AC filled the other day and yesterday was the first warm day to really use it. 30 minutes of cool air all the way home and when I was pulling into the garage the fan stopped running. It blew the 10a fuse under the dash. I blew 3-4 more testing various things but ended up having to disconnect the compressor as it was causing the blown fuse. When disconnecting the plug I saw a massive leak on the vacuum large hose at the crimp.


At that point I took it to the shop that filled it to have a look. So far what I can tell the line failed. No visible signs of misuse or damage. I can't believe it's a brand new custom line that's not sealed right. Bad crimp? Weakened aluminum? Don't know the real cause yet as the line hasn't been pulled but just sent an email off to Kpower to see what they want to do about the situation. For now I'm just without AC I guess.


Edit:


Kpower is send me a new line. I'll report back when I get it sorted.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Finally got my AC filled the other day and yesterday was the first warm day to really use it. 30 minutes of cool air all the way home and when I was pulling into the garage the fan stopped running. It blew the 10a fuse under the dash. I blew 3-4 more testing various things but ended up having to disconnect the compressor as it was causing the blown fuse. When disconnecting the plug I saw a massive leak on the vacuum large hose at the crimp.


At that point I took it to the shop that filled it to have a look. So far what I can tell the line failed. No visible signs of misuse or damage. I can't believe it's a brand new custom line that's not sealed right. Bad crimp? Weakened aluminum? Don't know the real cause yet as the line hasn't been pulled but just sent an email off to Kpower to see what they want to do about the situation. For now I'm just without AC I guess.


Edit:


Kpower is send me a new line. I'll report back when I get it sorted.

I’m a little confused how the shop didn’t find this problem because their job is to test the system. Most won’t just fill it up. They have to perform a vacuum test and see if it holds vacuum for 20-30 minutes then vacuum pump the system for 45 minutes, and then they can fill the system. A leak is bad for the environment, so they have to verify before filling.

So the AC was blowing a fuse from what? It was just running high without resistance or something? It seems odd if that was the case because an empty system wouldn’t do that normally.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I’m a little confused how the shop didn’t find this problem because their job is to test the system. Most won’t just fill it up. They have to perform a vacuum test and see if it holds vacuum for 20-30 minutes then vacuum pump the system for 45 minutes, and then they can fill the system. A leak is bad for the environment, so they have to verify before filling.

So the AC was blowing a fuse from what? It was just running high without resistance or something? It seems odd if that was the case because an empty system wouldn’t do that normally.

The initial vacuum test held for whatever amount usually required for testing like normal so at some point the seal on the crimp let go or just got larger as the days went by. I lost a hair over half a pound pound of refrigerant.


My guess and from what I can tell is that the compressor was working OVERTIME with the leak which caused it to "lock up" or just require more energy to trip the clutch which then fried the fuse. The day before I thought it was weird the fans kept kicking on an off like crazy but didn't get a chance to look at the reason for it.



So when I got home yesterday from the shop I did a test. I took a jumper wire to the clutch directly from the battery while the car was running and it labored to kick over the first time. After a few cycles it tripped just fine so I plugged it back into the stock harness. It didn't blow the fuse once after cycling it a couple times. Granted this was a dry system so I kept it small short cycles just to see. Either way I think that kinda proves my theory. The compressor was close to failure I think. Hopefully it's not trash but we will see once it's all hooked back up.

[Four_wheel_drifts]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

It didn't blow the fuse once after cycling it a couple times. Granted this was a dry system so I kept it small short cycles just to see. Either way I think that kinda proves my theory. The compressor was close to failure I think. Hopefully it's not trash but we will see once it's all hooked back up.

The problem with losing refrigerant is that you also lose the oil that lubricates the compressor. Just like with your home ducted air conditioner or heat pump, this puts stress on the compressor until it fails ("burns up").

Timewise, it doesn't seem like you had enough run minutes on it to kill it. I hope it's ok.

[Irace86.2.0]

My cruise control doesn’t work. The light comes on, but that is it. I hadn’t tested it until today. Also the gear indicator flickers and isn’t accurate. Does anyone know if it is possible to change the shift light past the limit of 7400 limit? I’m hoping the update might fix some other issues besides the fuel gauge.

[captain awesome]

My cruise control has always worked. I've seen someone else mention the gear indicator wasn't reading right. Curious about the shift light as well.

[Ebush]

My gear indicator didn’t work at first. I never did anything to try and get it to work, but then one day it started working after a few hundred miles of completing the swap. I pulled the engine out to swap head gaskets, and I’ve driven it for 1000 miles since then and haven’t been able to get the gear indicator to work again. I haven’t even mentioned the issue to kpower.

I have a bad front wheel speed sensor, but haven’t bothered to replace it since I deleted abs and don’t really need it other than for cruise control. I plan to fix that issue soon so I can have cruise again, hopefully. Bad front wheel speed sensor could possibly affect my gear indicator, but it’s been bad even since I completed the swap. Not too sure why it went bad during the swap though as I never had issues before.

[RedReplicant]

I emailed KPower yesterday asking for an update and they said they were going to do a partial shipment that is everything but the oil pan, which they said they were also waiting on from their fabricator. I suppose that is fortunate.