Where are all the possible places oil can leak from the FRS/BRZ?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by CockpitCruiser

I'm workin on it but it's difficult to leave meaningful comments on former conversations until I get to 10

Just leave unmeaningful ones.

[CockpitCruiser]

Am I the only one who, with an oil leak around the timing chain cover, forgot to drain and refill their anti-freeze at or before 60k miles? I think this may have had some effect on the breakdown of the rtv seal around my timing chain cover.


Also, how feasible is it to create a rubber gasket for the chain cover, rather than using the rtv as a gasket?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by CockpitCruiser

Am I the only one who, with an oil leak around the timing chain cover, forgot to drain and refill their anti-freeze at or before 60k miles? I think this may have had some effect on the breakdown of the rtv seal around my timing chain cover.

No correlation between the two. Maybe if the engine overheated seriously at some point, but that's a whole other issue.

Also, how feasible is it to create a rubber gasket for the chain cover, rather than using the rtv as a gasket?

Nope. No way. This and many other modern engines are literally designed around the use of FIPS/FIPG Form In Place Gasket/Sealant.

[whataboutbob]

Sometimes the oil leaks aren't visible from the outside....

[Grady]

I can’t believe no one has stated the most common oil leak on our engine is the hole in the side of the block from the rod!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Grady

I can’t believe no one has stated the most common oil leak on our engine is the hole in the side of the block from the rod!

The rod usually cracks the top of the block. The heads are on the sides. If it is leaking from the side you have likely ejected a rocker arm.

[Grady]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

The rod usually cracks the top of the block. The heads are on the sides. If it is leaking from the side you have likely ejected a rocker arm.

You have never seen me drive.

[CockpitCruiser]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

No correlation between the two. Maybe if the engine overheated seriously at some point, but that's a whole other issue.

Ok. I read somewhere that the new 'blue' Subaru coolant had an additive that conditions the gaskets, but then that didn't make sense, because the coolant could only touch the parts that have coolant in them, not the ones that have oil in them. My mistake.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Nope. No way. This and many other modern engines are literally designed around the use of FIPS/FIPG Form In Place Gasket/Sealant.

Ok, that makes sense - Robots create engines now, whereas men built the engines that I've rebuilt in the past. But just because it was created that way, doesn't mean I couldn't create a gasket to make things easier, even though it would be a massive gasket.

[CockpitCruiser]

I saw on this website (somewhere,) a link to the exact sealant to use to complete this task, (timing chain sealant application,) and the complete directions from a manual to get the job done, but I was on another computer and google won't let me find that link on this computer. Can somebody help me find that link? I believe it was Tcoat that shared the link or info. Thank you

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by CockpitCruiser

Ok, that makes sense - Robots create engines now, whereas men built the engines that I've rebuilt in the past. But just because it was created that way, doesn't mean I couldn't create a gasket to make things easier, even though it would be a massive gasket.

It might be doable. The timing chain cover does quite a bit. It's also the oil pump housing, galleries, and ports to feed the heads and block. O-rings seal the ports to the block, camshaft position sensors, etc., etc. Just seems like a lot of work to avoid using the specified sealant.

[bcj]

The most recent sealing procedure info was updated for the valve spring replacement.
Should be in one of those threads.

This is the first one I could dig up. It says "Revised" but you could do some more digging.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/201...8V772-6522.pdf

[Ultramaroon]

I've saved every one of those files. It's worth just nabbing all and reading them. Good stuff in addition to the FSM. See link in my sig line.

[CockpitCruiser]

Originally Posted by CockpitCruiser

I saw on this website (somewhere,) a link to the exact sealant to use to complete this task... I believe it was Tcoat that shared the link or info

Ok, I'm on the correct computer now and fortunately, I've saved the page as a bookmark. It WAS Tcoat...






...who gave the following link; https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1413834741


Note in pdf above, page 4; re-seal using Liquid Gasket ThreeBond 1280B (Part No. SOA5499100) or equivalent


Now, a couple final questions, before handing this off to my tech

1. Does the chain cover have a gutter for the sealant to reside in, or are both mating surfaces flat?

2. Once the sealant is applied, what is the recommended time to wait for the sealant to properly cure before mating the surfaces? I read somewhere it's 24 hours, but then a tech on YT said a couple hours... (Robotic machines use a uv light to speed it up) Thanks

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by CockpitCruiser

1. Does the chain cover have a gutter for the sealant to reside in, or are both mating surfaces flat?



2. Once the sealant is applied, what is the recommended time to wait for the sealant to properly cure before mating the surfaces? I read somewhere it's 24 hours, but then a tech on YT said a couple hours... (Robotic machines use a uv light to speed it up) Thanks

If you follow the FSM, there is an area for the sealant, but you do not apply it into that area. I believe that is an area where a lot of techs that where doing the spring recall screwed up.



I used TB1217H when I did mine. Using a good caulking gun will give you better control when applying the sealant. Make sure you have a nice no slip work surface to place the timing cover, makes it a lot easier. The FSM has application instructions for the sealant, but you have like 10-15 minutes once you apply it to the cover, to get the cover on and torque it IIRC.



There are a bunch of different length bolts. Trace the timing cover onto a piece of cardboard and punch the bolt through the cardboard in it's location to keep track of it. The perimeter bolts are 8mm, three inner bolts are 6mm. They have different torque specs.








I would also go to the hardware store and get about 4 5in long 8mm bolts and grind the heads off to use as guides. Will make getting the cover on a lot easier.