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Old 06-30-2020, 12:29 PM   #1
JBezugs
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DIY: Greddy Oil Cooler Install

Were you so tired of your FA20 running HAWT at the track or on the highway, that you decided to do something about it?

You looked at all the options, but you decided to ball out and pick up the Greddy Oil Cooler, for 2 reasons:
  • Maximum Cooling capacity and a thermostatic sandwich plate so it'll work for both NA and possible future FI application with lots of overhead
  • To be a JDM CLOUT GOD

However, being a JDM CLOUT GOD does not come without a price; your new cooler only comes with Japanese (JDM AF BOYEEE) instructions, and lameo-ass USDM English instructions don't exist!

Well, today is your lucky day. I paid the cost to be da boss, and below is a DIY on how to install your Greddy Oil Cooler. Took me about 6 hours including cleanup.

Before we start, big thanks to @CSG Mike for convincing me to buy it (I got it for a steal) and @Chuckable for his thread which had super helpful photos and info!

Tools/things you will need:
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Adjustable wrench, good to adjust out to at least 1 1/8"
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • Wrenches and sockets in the following sizes: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm, 22mm.
  • Metric Allen Key set
  • An extra 1L of oil. I use Eneos 0w-20.
  • Teflon Tape (recommended) or high-temp thread sealer for the sensor adapter bungs.
  • MOST IMPORTANTLY: A compatible oil filter - the Greddy sandwich block uses a 3/4-16UNF thread size, so our OEM M20x1.5 filters are not compatible. They'd be too wide anyways. You can use the Greddy OX-01, OX-03 or any filter listed for a Toyota 3SG, such as the Fram XG4386. I got a good deal on the Greddy OX-03 from RHDJapan, so that's what I went with.

Optional but good to have:
  • 27mm deep socket and wrench (size confirmed by @CSG Mike)
  • AN-fitting Wrench

Note that I forgot to note some of the sizes of specific bolts during the install. Where I remembered the size I've called it out, but if I didn't, sorry! It will be one of the sizes noted in the tool list above; just fish around your toolbox a bit.
Also, you may notice the pictures get thinner as the work proceeded. I forgot to take photos in a few key areas, but I'll fill in the gaps where I can.


Part 1 - Bench Work

Prior to installation, you will want to lay out all of the pieces of the kit in-front of you; we will need to do some prep work before going out to the car.


Lets start with the cooling core.
Place the provided foam strips on the cooler core as shown to seal the ducting around the interior edges. The two thick pieces of foam strip will go on the sides of the cooler, and the thinner roll can be cut in half and run along the top and bottom. Then place your duct onto the cooler by slipping it over top. Since the large piece is only 3 sided, this can be done very easily.





Then, take four (4) of your small bolt/washer/lockwasher/nut combos, as well as the thick u-shaped bracket, and affix them to the left side of the cooler. The order should be as follows:
  • Bolt
  • Duct
  • Washer
  • Cooler
  • Bracket
  • Lockwasher
  • Nut


The same can be done on the right side of the cooler, however instead of the U-bracket in the middle, there is an S-shaped bracket that needs to be mounted on the top of the cooler. Order as follows (thanks @TwinFTW)
  • Bolt
  • Bracket
  • Duct
  • Washer
  • Cooler
  • Lock washer
  • Nut


From there, we can mount the 4th side of the ducting using the four (4) button-head allen bolt/washer/nut combos. Washers should be on the nut-side.



And just like that, our cooling core is ready to be mounted!


Not so fast though! We need to prep our sandwich plate as well. As fun as it is to eat gabagool straight from the fridge, it does taste nicer in a fresh ciabatta.

Grab your sandwich plate bag and lay everything out. Also, make sure you have your oil handy.
You can first install the two bolts that sit in the lower holes of the sandwich plate. Crack open your bottle of fresh oil and lube up those o-rings, then rest the o-ring in the dedicated ridge on the bolt before threading into place. I find it's helpful to hold the sandwich plate vertically so the o-ring doesn't fall out or lose its seat while threading it. Get them finger snug for now, we will tighten them later.

You can do the same now with the upper bolts. On the right side, the AN fitting bolt will sit right on the sandwich plate.




For the left side, you will first install the sensor port adapter, than the AN fitting bolt. For the sensor port adapter, make sure that you apply some Teflon Tape (recommended) or high-temperature thread sealant on the three (3) hex bungs prior to install. This will make sure they don't leak later (I learned the hard way, had to fix it once it was on the car). Otherwise, the same prep steps apply for each piece, lubing your o-ring then threading on.


Then, tighten down each fitting. 19mm for the lower bolts, 22mm for the upper AN fitting bolts, and the sensor port is a 24mm (maybe? I just used an adjustable wrench).

HUZZAH! Part 1 is complete, now to attack vehicle install.


Part 2 - The Cooler Core

Finally, we are in the garage and ready to go.


Now, for some movie magic - I will save you the 40 minutes of swearing at clips that it took to take my bumper off. There are many DIYs for this, uSe ThE sEaRcH fUnCtIoN.


That's better.
The cooler will mount in this area on the passenger side of the vehicle. There are obviously a few things in the way here, so lets deal with that.


First, remove the plastic air ducting piece. There are two clips for it - one on the plastic lower chin which you can see easily, and one on the longitudinal bumper bar support towards the top of the duct piece.


Now, remove your high-tone horn and outside temperature sensor, including brackets. The horn bracket is two pieces, it can be taken apart. Make sure you save the horn-bracket chassis side mounting bolt for later, as we will use this to mount one side of the cooler.


Using the provided black M6 bolts in the kit (two bolts, but only 1 nut) the large L shaped bracket piece can be mounted onto the car. The lower hole is pre-threaded; the upper hole is not and will require the nut.


Now we are ready to mount the cooler! Or, nah.
Upon fitting the cooler, you will realize that you will have to split the ambient temp sensor from the horn harness for it to fit in its designated location on the side of the cooler ducting. So, pull the damn cooler off and start splitting that harness. Take your time and make sure not to cut any wires. The split loom cover on the wiring makes this easy, but the wires are still very thin.

Split that loom right back to the top of the bumper bar, and then rewrap those now loose wires in a solid layer of electrical tape from top to bottom. Then, send the ambient temp sensor down the other way as shown.


Okay, now you can actually mount up your cooler. Using the 12mm bolt from the old horn bracket, mount up the right side of the cooler to the corresponding M6 hole underneath the bumper bar. Take this time to attach your ambient temperature sensor to the side of the ducting - it will click into place.


Then, take your four (4) large 14mm bolt/washer/lockwasher/nut combos and the two remaining long bracket pieces (I will refer to them as longbois below for simplicity), and thread into the L-bracket on the car, then thread the other side onto the U-bracket that we mounted on the left side of the cooler. Make sure you mount up your horn too, as shown. I put them in the following order:
  • Bolt
  • Longboi Bracket
  • Washer
  • U-Bracket/L-Bracket
  • Lockwasher
  • Nut


Your cooler core is now mounted!



Part 3 - Pop The Hood, It's Time For That Sandwich (Plate)

Now it's time to piece the rest of this thing together. But, before we run our sandwich plate, lets run our hoses.
Put the split-loom provided onto each hose, positioning the split-loom towards the 120 and 180 degree ends of the hose, as these will be closer to the cooler core. The 180-degree end will be run along the channel closest to the radiator, then behind the cooler core where it can then be fitted onto the left side of the core. Finger tighten for now.


Then, connect the 120-degree fitting to the right side of the cooler core, once again finger tightening for now.


Now we can run the lines up to the engine bay. Run the lines along to the drivers side, going underneath the drivers side air-duct towards the washer fluid reservoir, with the 120deg hose sitting in front of the 180deg hose. Make sure they do not cross over at any time, as their orientation is important when they reach the engine bay. You may have to trim that drivers side air-duct a bit so that the hoses can pass underneath it without binding, but you shouldn't have to.


Bring them up around the washer fluid reservoir, then into the engine bay underneath the AC hardline and the washer-fluid neck. Once again, make sure they don't cross over.


WE MADE IT INTO THE ENGINE BAY!
Take out that OEM oil filter and throw it out. You won't be needing this where we're going. Then, take your sandwich plate riser/adapter and lube up that big o-ring with fresh oil. Place it on the oil filter location, o-ring side down and take the black threaded adapter that it was packaged with and snug that boi down.
I used an adjustable wrench for this but admittedly, a large deep socket would be better suited. I think its a 26mm, I will confirm soon. (EDIT: 27mm deep-well socket is confirmed)


Now, get your thermostatic sandwich plate and lube up that o-ring with fresh oil as well. Place it down onto the sandwich plate riser, then take the silver threaded adapter and snug 'er down with the sandwich plate clocked to where the plate is as close to the engine oil cap without touching. Once again, I used an adjustable wrench for this, but a large deep well socket would be better suited. I'll confirm size shortly. (EDIT: 27mm deep-well socket is confirmed)

Now that the sandwich plate is mounted, take the opportunity to snug up all of your fittings on both ends of the cooler kit, and secure each 90-deg AN fitting onto the sandwich plate using the adjustable wrench. Provided you haven't crossed your lines, they should be orientated correctly. If you want to verify your connections, it will be as follows:
  • 120-deg hose - left side of sandwich plate
  • 180-deg hose - right side of sandwich plate
You can then plop on your oil filter, following typical instructions (lube o-ring on bottom of filter, spin on to snug, then turn another 3/4 turn).


If you need to, you can clock the left-side hose so that it clears the back of the airbox.


Home stretch! Tighten down your fittings on the cooler core side, and verify your lines aren't snagged anywhere. Once you're happy with placement, you can use the provided tie-wraps to secure the hoses together as required, which is recommended as follows once again from @CSG Mike: "Use some zip ties to space the lines in intervals for posterity. One big tie going around both lines, and a second going in between the lines making a loop around the big zip tie. Tighten the center one first, then the big ones."

Ready to start? Almost! Add 1L of oil to your vehicle. Before 1st start, you can prime the oil cooler by putting your car into the on-position, then holding down 100% throttle before pressing the start button. This will prevent the car from turning over. I did this for about 5 seconds twice over before firing up. Now, start your car and check for leaks. If your AN fittings are weeping, you can tighten them up. Mine were all good. If you can, take it for a bit of a drive, making sure you get the oil up to temperature.

Since it's the first time getting heat into the system, heat can expand seals and cause some weeping. Tighten stuff down if you need to. After my first drive, I noticed a slight bit of weeping from the sensor adapter on the sandwich plate.

A little bit of tightening while things were hot seems to have remedied that.


You're now done! Put your bumper back on, and enjoy the cooling.



Now, where to put the clout badge...

Last edited by JBezugs; 02-18-2021 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:31 PM   #2
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Awesome write up.

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Old 06-30-2020, 01:38 PM   #3
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Awesome write up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Second that! Very thorough and even entertaining!


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Old 06-30-2020, 03:33 PM   #4
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That was a nice write up. Entertaining

I assume that the OEM oil filter fits the Greddy Sandwich plate?
Or is the oil filter a specific one?

Would love to hear more details down the line about time taken to reach full operating oil temp from cold. And how good/bad it is when street driven ?

Many thanks.
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Old 06-30-2020, 03:34 PM   #5
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Great write up !

Can someone explain to me why the cooler is always mounted on the passenger side while the oil filter is on the driver's one ?


To me its uneeded hoses extra length but maybe it's easier / cheaper ?


Thanks
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Old 06-30-2020, 03:49 PM   #6
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You've now become the English install instructions!
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Old 06-30-2020, 03:49 PM   #7
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Great write up !

Can someone explain to me why the cooler is always mounted on the passenger side while the oil filter is on the driver's one ?


To me its uneeded hoses extra length but maybe it's easier / cheaper ?


Thanks
No washer bottle in the way on the passenger side.
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Old 06-30-2020, 03:56 PM   #8
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That was a nice write up. Entertaining

I assume that the OEM oil filter fits the Greddy Sandwich plate?
Or is the oil filter a specific one?

Would love to hear more details down the line about time taken to reach full operating oil temp from cold. And how good/bad it is when street driven ?

Many thanks.
The OEM oil filter unfortunately does not fit for two reasons:
  1. Thread pitch is wrong (OEM is M20x1.5, Greddy Sandwich Plate is 3/4-16UNF)
  2. It's too wide to fit on the sandwich plate.

Basically any oil filter made for the 3S-GTE will fit (think 91-95 MR2 Turbo). Examples are the Greddy OX-03 (what I'm running on my car), Fram XG4386, Toyota 90915-10004, etc.
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Old 06-30-2020, 04:14 PM   #9
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No washer bottle in the way on the passenger side.

Ok thanks for the explanation.


Looking at this picture I was thinking it was ok on both sides :
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Old 07-01-2020, 02:44 AM   #10
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The OEM oil filter unfortunately does not fit for two reasons:
  1. Thread pitch is wrong (OEM is M20x1.5, Greddy Sandwich Plate is 3/4-16UNF)
  2. It's too wide to fit on the sandwich plate.

Basically any oil filter made for the 3S-GTE will fit (think 91-95 MR2 Turbo). Examples are the Greddy OX-03 (what I'm running on my car), Fram XG4386, Toyota 90915-10004, etc.
That is some good info.

3SGTE oil filters are widely available, so its not an issue.

If one is really fussy about mounting the cooler on the left side ( for its passenger side as I'm RHD, the proper side )))) ) then is it possible to relocate the washer bottle to the right side. It shouldn't be so difficult, just some wire extension and small hose is needed.
The question is, the reduction in hose length that will result after the relocation of the washer bottle will have any considerable effect on the oil pressure?

Thanks for your inputs.

PS: I thought Greddy sold only blue cooler cores. Haven't seen red ones.
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:18 AM   #11
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That is some good info.

3SGTE oil filters are widely available, so its not an issue.

If one is really fussy about mounting the cooler on the left side ( for its passenger side as I'm RHD, the proper side )))) ) then is it possible to relocate the washer bottle to the right side. It shouldn't be so difficult, just some wire extension and small hose is needed.
The question is, the reduction in hose length that will result after the relocation of the washer bottle will have any considerable effect on the oil pressure?

Thanks for your inputs.

PS: I thought Greddy sold only blue cooler cores. Haven't seen red ones.
Red cores were a limited production of 50.

No meaningful effect on pressure, as this is way far back in the chain.
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Old 07-01-2020, 05:15 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Thefalls View Post
That is some good info.

3SGTE oil filters are widely available, so its not an issue.

If one is really fussy about mounting the cooler on the left side ( for its passenger side as I'm RHD, the proper side )))) ) then is it possible to relocate the washer bottle to the right side. It shouldn't be so difficult, just some wire extension and small hose is needed.
The question is, the reduction in hose length that will result after the relocation of the washer bottle will have any considerable effect on the oil pressure?

Thanks for your inputs.

PS: I thought Greddy sold only blue cooler cores. Haven't seen red ones.
That was the other point I had in mind
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:09 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by JBezugs View Post

For the left side, you will first install the sensor port adapter, than the AN fitting bolt. For the sensor port adapter, make sure that you apply some Teflon Tape (recommended) or high-temperature thread sealant on the three (3) hex bungs prior to install. This will make sure they don't leak later (I learned the hard way, had to fix it once it was on the car). Otherwise, the same prep steps apply for each piece, lubing your o-ring then threading on.
Just to verify, youíre saying Teflon tape on the 3 very small hex screws located on the sensor port adapter in this picture?
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:50 AM   #14
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Just to verify, youíre saying Teflon tape on the 3 very small hex screws located on the sensor port adapter in this picture?
That's correct.
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