Stock Lug Nuts having trouble tightening/loosening

[scottryan]

Hey guys,

So I was pulling my wheels off yesterday and putting them back on in order to make sure they go on with the proper 89ftlb of torque (Bought my car used 2 months ago, old guy didn't drive it nor do much work on it), and noticed that my lugs nuts were VERY hard to turn as soon as the thread made contact with the stud. (My locking nut goes on and spins just fine, so it's not a problem with the wheel studs).

Does anyone know what might be wrong?

Info: About a month or so ago, I didn't have a torque wrench, but wanted to tighten the lugs a bit so I went around with a breaker bar and gave a small tighten to all the lugs (Definitely over 89ftlbs).

Thanks in advance!

[rcm47]

The stock studs and lug nuts on this car cross thread easily. Highly suggest upgrading to ARP aftermarket wheel studs.

[scottryan]

Originally Posted by rcm47

The stock studs and lug nuts on this car cross thread easily. Highly suggest upgrading to ARP aftermarket wheel studs.

Will definitely be doing that, just needed to confirm that the stock lugs are trash! Thanks dude

[Trueweltall]

When you thread on the first nut it's going to center the wheel due to the tapered lug nut, that first one will be feel different than all the rest. Also the factory studs will stretch and wear out over time.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Start with a better set of steel lug nuts first. The stock ones are very cheaply made and don't do well after even a handful of tire changes. I can recommend a set of Muteki SR35 nuts. If you take care of the lug nuts you shouldn't have any trouble with the studs either.

[why?]

brand doesn't matter, the stock stuff can be a problem.

Hell, material of the lug nuts are made from doesn't matter, don't buy cheap garbage and you'll be fine. Both the Rays forged lugs and the Gorilla forged lugs I have never have an issue and are just as strong as steel.

[scottryan]

Originally Posted by why?

brand doesn't matter, the stock stuff can be a problem.

Hell, material of the lug nuts are made from doesn't matter, don't buy cheap garbage and you'll be fine. Both the Rays forged lugs and the Gorilla forged lugs I have never have an issue and are just as strong as steel.

I hear you, I ordered a set of Enkei RPF1 wheels along with Gorilla lugs and will see how smoothly the new lugs slide on, if there's any problem I'll go through with an order of APC studs to make sure everything is on properly, thanks for the information!

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by why?

brand doesn't matter, the stock stuff can be a problem.

Hell, material of the lug nuts are made from doesn't matter, don't buy cheap garbage and you'll be fine. Both the Rays forged lugs and the Gorilla forged lugs I have never have an issue and are just as strong as steel.

Material does matter depending on use. If you have anyone but yourself touch the lug nuts with a wrench I'd stick with steel. Aluminum, even 7075 can gall. AL is much easier to cross thread too. For a set that will last the life of the car on a street car I'd stick with steel.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by scottryan

Hey guys,

So I was pulling my wheels off yesterday and putting them back on in order to make sure they go on with the proper 89ftlb of torque (Bought my car used 2 months ago, old guy didn't drive it nor do much work on it), and noticed that my lugs nuts were VERY hard to turn as soon as the thread made contact with the stud. (My locking nut goes on and spins just fine, so it's not a problem with the wheel studs).

Does anyone know what might be wrong?

Info: About a month or so ago, I didn't have a torque wrench, but wanted to tighten the lugs a bit so I went around with a breaker bar and gave a small tighten to all the lugs (Definitely over 89ftlbs).

Thanks in advance!

There are a chain of events here that are both comical, and sad. You started going sideways when you assumed that, because the old guy didn't do much work on it, the wheels needed worked on. It's either that, or you've already realized that you did it to yourself but were holding out hope that it might have been the old guy's fault.

Sadly, you damaged them when you, without first verifying the torque, cranked on them extra hard in order to break them loose in the tightening direction to give them all "a small tighten."

All fasteners settle in over time. It takes WAY more than spec torque to break them loose. There are physical terms; hysteresis, static friction, whatever, but the main point is that we already know you over-torqued the lugs because you overcame that friction in order to get the nuts even tighter.

With or without a torque wrench, if checking a fastener, always start by breaking it loose. Then carefully re-tighten to torque.


With one, just go to spec torque. The fastener will not move.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

There are a chain of events here that are both comical, and sad. You started going sideways when you assumed that, because the old guy didn't do much work on it, the wheels needed worked on. It's either that, or you've already realized that you did it to yourself but were holding out hope that it might have been the old guy's fault.

Sadly, you damaged them when you, without first verifying the torque, cranked on them extra hard in order to break them loose in the tightening direction to give them all "a small tighten."

All fasteners settle in over time. It takes WAY more than spec torque to break them loose. There are physical terms; hysteresis, static friction, whatever, but the main point is that we already know you over-torqued the lugs because you overcame that friction in order to get the nuts even tighter.

With or without a torque wrench, if checking a fastener, always start by breaking it loose. Then carefully re-tighten to torque.


With one, just go to spec torque. The fastener will not move.

This. Always assume spec is running torque, so always loosen first.

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by Trueweltall

When you thread on the first nut it's going to center the wheel due to the tapered lug nut, that first one will be feel different than all the rest. Also the factory studs will stretch and wear out over time.

They are a lifetime item. If they are not holding up it may be due to user not torquing the lug nuts correctly, using lube or anti seize on the threads, or not keeping the threads clean of debris.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by stevesnj

They are a lifetime item. If they are not holding up it may be due to user not torquing the lug nuts correctly, using lube or anti seize on the threads, or not keeping the threads clean of debris.

I agree. The hardware always seems to get the blame, but more often than not, it's the monkey on the end of the wrench. (or impact)

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Trueweltall

When you thread on the first nut it's going to center the wheel due to the tapered lug nut, that first one will be feel different than all the rest.

It's better for both the wheel and studs to gently lift the wheel onto the hub center before inserting the first lug nut.

Also the factory studs will stretch and wear out over time.

In all the vehicles I've owned and serviced, I have never mangled a single wheel lug or nut. This one is no different.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Material does matter depending on use. If you have anyone but yourself touch the lug nuts with a wrench I'd stick with steel. Aluminum, even 7075 can gall. AL is much easier to cross thread too. For a set that will last the life of the car on a street car I'd stick with steel.

You can do that, but I'm going to tell you it doesn't matter. Steel can be crappy too. I've had Rays forged aluminum on my Yaris for a decade and let everyone at them. Never had an issue.

Good quality parts are what counts.