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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 01-30-2015, 06:57 PM   #15
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I'm sorry, but ignore everything else in this thread and get a K&N air filter. Problem solved.


Enjoying our placebo pill are we?
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:30 PM   #16
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I'm sorry, but ignore everything else in this thread and get a K&N air filter. Problem solved.
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:55 PM   #17
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It's a slow car, what'd you expect?
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:20 PM   #18
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If not wanting to effect warranty then lighter wheels / tires (to reduce un-sprung weight), drop in air filter, aluminium drive shaft and change your diff ratio. OFT or a custom tune would also do wonders, but impact on warranty. All said and done though mine is pretty good and seems to be improving as I wind on the km.
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Old 01-30-2015, 11:17 PM   #19
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throttle controller http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop...2007-p-58.html
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:06 PM   #20
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It seems pretty responsive to me.. I have like two days driving the brz and it does not feel slow like many people claims to be. it pulls hard and sound sweet even as stock!
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:14 PM   #21
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i think my BRZ low end is pretty responsive and that is what sold me the car. 3k-5k felt pretty pathetic however and that is the famous power dip
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:19 PM   #22
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i think my BRZ low end is pretty responsive and that is what sold me the car. 3k-5k felt pretty pathetic however and that is the famous power dip
It is nearly impossible to get any dip in power/rpm (or get negative number from derivative of power curve) .
Torque is what is dipping, and it only ~15lbf*ft, that is 10%, anyway, in few mouths i should get BRZ and experience terror myself of that famous dip
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:35 PM   #23
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What you could buy that would actually make a difference. All of these combined would basically make a NA short track monster for sure.
1. A tune
2. High quality headers
3. light weight fly wheel
4. Light wheels
5. Light weight drive shaft
6. New rear dif (to shorten the gearing)
7. Throttle controller
8. Light weight crank pulley
9. High quality air filter
10. Clutch adjustment on the manual (feels nice, it helps)
11. larger downpipe/mid pipe (the back end really is all for sound)
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:41 PM   #24
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It is nearly impossible to get any dip in power/rpm (or get negative number from derivative of power curve) .
Torque is what is dipping, and it only ~15lbf*ft, that is 10%, anyway, in few mouths i should get BRZ and experience terror myself of that famous dip
Umm, HP = (Torque X RPM)/5252

So saying the HP does not drop, but the torque does is nonsense.

It's like those people who say "It's not the volts that gets ya, its the AMPS".
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stugray View Post
Umm, HP = (Torque X RPM)/5252

So saying the HP does not drop, but the torque does is nonsense.

It's like those people who say "It's not the volts that gets ya, its the AMPS".

Torque is dipping 10%, so power should dip too, but it stays nearly flat.

And yes, only current is killing. two different persons can have different effect on same voltage, but will have same exact effect on same current, due to variations in resistance.
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:38 PM   #26
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Try sprintboostersales.com. Not sure they have an application for the twins. Pretty popular with the R8 crowd.
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Old 02-02-2015, 05:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stugray View Post
Umm, HP = (Torque X RPM)/5252

So saying the HP does not drop, but the torque does is nonsense.

It's like those people who say "It's not the volts that gets ya, its the AMPS".
Quote:
Originally Posted by kilohercas View Post
Torque is dipping 10%, so power should dip too, but it stays nearly flat.

And yes, only current is killing. two different persons can have different effect on same voltage, but will have same exact effect on same current, due to variations in resistance.
It does not work that way.

HP = (Torque X RPM)/5252

If torque dips, so does power (UNLESS you have a corresponding increase in RPM).
So IF you change the Torque at a given RPM, you also change the HP.
You cannot change one without the other (at a given RPM).

But since we are not talking about one point in time (fixed RPM), then saying "dip in torque" is ambiguous.
Is it a "reduction of torque at a given RPM"
or is it "lower torque through the same RPM range"?
or "Torque decreased as RPM increased" which might be a constant HP

And as far as the current vs voltage:
Current differs from voltage by a constant R.
So current and voltage "track together". (they differ by a constant)
So I can argue that since the Voltage DRIVES the current, it is the voltage that kills you.
OR I can argue that Current is DEPENDENT on Voltage and Resistance So the current kills you.
OR I can say that it is your body's resistance that kills you because IT is what lets the current flow.

See all three comparisons are meaningless.
In truth, it is the POWER that is dissipated across the resistance in your body that kills you.
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:06 PM   #28
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...."It's the watts!" LOL
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