NonStopTuning Pulley Kit Info, Dyno Charts, User Feedback

[0351USMC]

Originally Posted by churchx

0351USMC: i'd advise to not do both lightweight crank pulley and lightweight flywheel, but choose between them, as some familiar with EJ and FA20 engine maintenance/rebuilding, reported here observed soon appearing bearing failures/heavy wear in cases where both were installed. Rest of pullies - no problems (but of course almost no gains, as stock are not as big/heavy as crank or flywheel ones). And if choice is LWCP or LWFW, imho better go for later one, though then again former might be simpler to replace.

Assuming this proves to be true, what should I look out for to see if this is becoming an issue? If it's not working as well I can pull off the crank pulley as its easier, and it's not as much of a hit on the checkbook when I resell it (but keep the rest of the set).

[churchx]

It's your car, your parts, your choice . In defence of NST view Perrin and FT86 SpeedFactory reps also posted that it should be safe. I myself prefer to play more on safe side, as it's my daily driver car that i plan to use many years to come, and if cited Infamous Performance warned against changing both, probably would go for one of them. He also posted that he prefers lightening FW on manual and CP on automatical. Don't know reasoning behind that, always driven manual shifter only, no clue about specifics for autos, hence planning on using all LW pulleys but CP one, LWFW & carbon driveshaft in future on mine.

[DC2R]

Originally Posted by Cross

HMMM I have both a 13lbs flywheel and all lightweight pulleys on the engine I am putting in now only the Crank one has not been installed as I need to use the starter trick once it was on the car.

If these motors are internally balanced I did not expect to have an issue with running both that concerns me as I refuse to not run a LWFW as that provides the best rev response... not to mention I also bought a one piece lighter drive shaft too....

lol yeah i was tempted to jam a wrench against the car and turn the motor over to break the alternator bolt loose. Only ever done it on a $400 buick. Will borrow a impact when possible.

[DC2R]

Soooooo I went to the dyno...........

[Zaneman]

Originally Posted by DC2R

Soooooo I went to the dyno...........

And.....

[DC2R]

So I just dynoed my car. Below are my results. According to everything I read I should be at 200 WHP or more.

This would mean that Openflash header, Openflash E85 tune, and a pulley kit net you only 14 WHP?

Filter, stage one, 93:
174 WHP, 143 WTQ
Filter, stage 2 UEL, Openflash header, E85, pulley kit:
188 WHP, 149 WTQ

I was hoping to see what power these added and report back. Unfortunately it seems something else is off. Might start new thread. Don't want to derail this anymore.

[churchx]

Imho it should be more from just catless header & E85 & of the shelf tune. I'd expect ~ 30hp from these only. Your gains sounds more like for stock tune. For noticeable gains from lightening rotational mass imho also worth to think about lightened drive shaft & wheels for that to play bigger role. Though don't know if it will show up in dyno, it certainly should in real driving.
P.S.
You haven't mentioned, but imho worth to install also aftermarket dropin airfilter, if you haven't already. Should be cheap.

[NonStopTuning]

Originally Posted by DC2R

So I just dynoed my car. Below are my results. According to everything I read I should be at 200 WHP or more.

This would mean that Openflash header, Openflash E85 tune, and a pulley kit net you only 14 WHP?

Filter, stage one, 93:
174 WHP, 143 WTQ
Filter, stage 2 UEL, Openflash header, E85, pulley kit:
188 WHP, 149 WTQ

I was hoping to see what power these added and report back. Unfortunately it seems something else is off. Might start new thread. Don't want to derail this anymore.

Originally Posted by churchx

Imho it should be more from just catless header & E85 & of the shelf tune. I'd expect ~ 30hp from these only. Your gains sounds more like for stock tune. For noticeable gains from lightening rotational mass imho also worth to think about lightened drive shaft & wheels for that to play bigger role. Though don't know if it will show up in dyno, it certainly should in real driving.
P.S.
You haven't mentioned, but imho worth to install also aftermarket dropin airfilter, if you haven't already. Should be cheap.

A few things to consider when using dynos...

Weather will affect dyno numbers. Going to the dyno today in 70 degree weather and then going back in the future in 90 degree weather will affect numbers. Humidity levels will also affect numbers. Changes in dyno calibration/recalibration can and will also affect numbers. We could go on and on.

This is the exact reason why we always conduct our before and after numbers on the same dyno, on the same day, to try to keep those other factors as unchanged as possible.

Bottom line though, your numbers are up, that matters more than anything else.

Best of luck with all your projects!

[NonStopTuning]

Any new user reviews, photos, etc?

please

[DC2R]

Originally Posted by churchx

Imho it should be more from just catless header & E85 & of the shelf tune. I'd expect ~ 30hp from these only. Your gains sounds more like for stock tune. For noticeable gains from lightening rotational mass imho also worth to think about lightened drive shaft & wheels for that to play bigger role. Though don't know if it will show up in dyno, it certainly should in real driving.
P.S.
You haven't mentioned, but imho worth to install also aftermarket dropin airfilter, if you haven't already. Should be cheap.

The first dyno was filter and stage 1 tune.

Originally Posted by NonStopTuning

A few things to consider when using dynos...

Weather will affect dyno numbers. Going to the dyno today in 70 degree weather and then going back in the future in 90 degree weather will affect numbers. Humidity levels will also affect numbers. Changes in dyno calibration/recalibration can and will also affect numbers. We could go on and on.

This is the exact reason why we always conduct our before and after numbers on the same dyno, on the same day, to try to keep those other factors as unchanged as possible.

Bottom line though, your numbers are up, that matters more than anything else.

Best of luck with all your projects!

Same dyno, same weather.

[NonStopTuning]

Anyone else with new pics and reviews?

[cdrazic93]

I notice they are made from 6061 aluminum. Whats stopping a company from making it out of titanium?

[churchx]

Costs. For example - are you ready to pay 3x-4x of current price just to have them made of Ti? And even if you are .. it more likely will be one-off, as not much other customers have no budget constraints, hence prices will be even above that. Economy of scale.
(And don't think just of material costs. Tooling may be needed different to cut from ti billets, tooling wear might be different, time and manhours to manufacture and so on ..)

[NonStopTuning]

Originally Posted by churchx

Costs. For example - are you ready to pay 3x-4x of current price just to have them made of Ti? And even if you are .. it more likely will be one-off, as not much other customers have no budget constraints, hence prices will be even above that. Economy of scale.
(And don't think just of material costs. Tooling may be needed different to cut from ti billets, tooling wear might be different, time and manhours to manufacture and so on ..)