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Old 09-16-2021, 05:19 PM   #15
norcalpb
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I’d be rocking a fan on my cooler now but it looks like you need at least 25 rows on the Setrab 6 series models…I’d love a baby fan on my 613 as opposed to buying a 619.
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Old 09-16-2021, 07:05 PM   #16
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I used
2 - Coolerguys 120mm (120X120X38) High Airflow Waterproof IP67 12v Fan
2 - Coolerguys 120mm (120X120X25) High Airflow Waterproof IP67 12v Fan
For oil cooler
4 - Coolerguys 80mm (80X80X25) High Airflow Waterproof IP67 12v Fan
For trans cooler

White Water ABS Black Plastic Louvered Vent Size:
58824B - 5-1/2” x 4-7/8”
For the rear vent

IIRC CFM flow was equivalent to about 30-35mph of air flow, assuming 100% open airflow to cooler surface. Most setups have restrictions, coverings, ducting, heavy modding to bumper for good airflow etc… probably closer to around 45-50mph CFM flow compared to most setups I see. Great for a daily, cold weather, canyons, back roads, auto x, drifting. And probably hold up well to tracking.

Pic from build thread
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Old 09-16-2021, 09:17 PM   #17
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Here's some shots of one I fabbed up. Added a small SPAL fan on a switch relay setup, but don't have the photos...
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Old 09-16-2021, 10:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
I used
2 - Coolerguys 120mm (120X120X38) High Airflow Waterproof IP67 12v Fan
2 - Coolerguys 120mm (120X120X25) High Airflow Waterproof IP67 12v Fan
For oil cooler
4 - Coolerguys 80mm (80X80X25) High Airflow Waterproof IP67 12v Fan
For trans cooler

White Water ABS Black Plastic Louvered Vent Size:
58824B - 5-1/2” x 4-7/8”
For the rear vent

IIRC CFM flow was equivalent to about 30-35mph of air flow, assuming 100% open airflow to cooler surface. Most setups have restrictions, coverings, ducting, heavy modding to bumper for good airflow etc… probably closer to around 45-50mph CFM flow compared to most setups I see. Great for a daily, cold weather, canyons, back roads, auto x, drifting. And probably hold up well to tracking.

Pic from build thread
Don’t the fans mount to the back (low pressure area)? I suppose the front works too
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Old 09-16-2021, 10:14 PM   #19
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Donít the fans mount to the back (low pressure area)? I suppose the front works too
Both?
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Old 09-16-2021, 10:31 PM   #20
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Here's some shots of one I fabbed up. Added a small SPAL fan on a switch relay setup, but don't have the photos...
man even has extra ducting for his radiator.
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Old 09-17-2021, 01:29 AM   #21
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Note, this cooler was for my AT, but this approach should work for Oil too.
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:35 AM   #22
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Way more input than I was expecting. Thanks everyone! Keep it coming, haha
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
JDL EL Recirc manifold, Boostlab BL58x Turbo w/ T51R, 17x9 ARC-8, IAG block
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Old 09-18-2021, 12:56 AM   #23
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I don't have photos of my stuff since my car is still on jackstands but when i did have my oil cooler on my passenger fog light area. I put a puller Spal fan on there and cut out an area in the wheel fender/liner.

I tested it with no fan and with a fan. I remember the ambient temps were 90F-95F driving on the freeway with no fan, my oil temps were at 195F. It got as high as 210F sitting at idle for an extended amount of time, but once i got any kind of forward movement, the temps would drop rapidly.
As for the oil cooler with the fan with the same type of weather, on the freeway, the temps would be around ~190F then with my tiny spal fan, it made the temp go down even more than that!

If you're doing just street driving then the fan is the way to go. Get a tiny spal fan. It' more expensive but those things move air.

Sitting at idle with the car hot. +195F oil temps. Turn that fan on and temps would drop to 180F probably more if i left fan on.

Last edited by jrhudson; 09-18-2021 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 09-18-2021, 12:08 PM   #24
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A properly sized oil cooler, with a puller fan in rear and well designed ducting shroud in the front is obviously the most ideal setup overall for cooling. However this often doesn’t lend well to overcooling concerns.

Depending on setup/goals/driving conditions/length of commute etc…

Having limited indirect airflow but still some airflow in and adequate airflow out, combined with a thermostat control valve, and both a puller and pusher fan, you effectively have no cooler when cold/warming up. And can still more than manage hot temperature concerns. Have your cake and eat it to so to speak. Don’t need to worry about block off plates in winter or having to baby the car for a few extra minutes everyday etc…

I got my oil over 200f in 80f weather then sat in a parking lot and watched as temps dropped to 169f pretty rapidly before I turned the fans off, even with my 198f thermostat valve. A 10second pull would net about 2f into the oil system in the time to get back to original speed, then continue to drop till next pull. A little less as it got hotter. short of tracking abuse that I never tested you really couldn’t phase the setup. Feel like it would have been more than adequate for that as well.
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Old 09-20-2021, 02:59 PM   #25
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I have the full race kit. It puts my oil cooler off to the side of the cooling stack quite a bit. I'm not having oil cooling issues, but I'd like to up the efficiency of it..


How effective do you feel like adding ducting to the cooler and running the duct to the passenger side fog light cover using parts from the Verus Engineering Brake ducting kit?
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Old 09-20-2021, 03:42 PM   #26
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I have the full race kit. It puts my oil cooler off to the side of the cooling stack quite a bit. I'm not having oil cooling issues, but I'd like to up the efficiency of it..


How effective do you feel like adding ducting to the cooler and running the duct to the passenger side fog light cover using parts from the Verus Engineering Brake ducting kit?
Probably very effective. Ducting is a big deal for heat exchangers

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Old 09-20-2021, 06:14 PM   #27
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You want the oil to regularly get up to temperatures approaching boiling point of water to drive moisture out. Regularly getting up to over 190F is better than keeping temps down at 180F.

Running an oil cooler with fans to prevent it ever getting up to 200ish is not a great idea IMO...


Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhudson View Post
I tested it with no fan and with a fan. I remember the ambient temps were 90F-95F driving on the freeway with no fan, my oil temps were at 195F. It got as high as 210F sitting at idle for an extended amount of time, but once i got any kind of forward movement, the temps would drop rapidly.
As for the oil cooler with the fan with the same type of weather, on the freeway, the temps would be around ~190F then with my tiny spal fan, it made the temp go down even more than that!

If you're doing just street driving then the fan is the way to go. Get a tiny spal fan. It' more expensive but those things move air.

Sitting at idle with the car hot. +195F oil temps. Turn that fan on and temps would drop to 180F probably more if i left fan on.
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Old 09-21-2021, 12:20 AM   #28
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Probably very effective. Ducting is a big deal for heat exchangers

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
Actually wont work. Took some measurements tonight and it's too tight. The duct won't fit. I guess I'll do the generic blitz/HKS styled ducting to the front cooling stack area.
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