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05-15-2013, 03:12 PM | #1 |
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Building audio setup. Need amplifier advice from the experts
So I started ordering the pieces for my sound system. I started with 2 way components:
http://www.morelhifi.com/car-audio/tempo/tempo-2-way-2 And will be getting 2 alpine 10inch type r subs 4ohm http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-10d4/ Or 2 ohm http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-10d2/ Question is is there a good 4 channel amp that can run the 2 subs and components, and should I get the subs in 2ohm or 4ohm Just to mention that my knowledge in this stuff is basic but limited..... Thanks! |
05-15-2013, 04:30 PM | #2 |
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RF T1000-4ad will run all of that with ease but you would probably max out the alt!
Link to amp on amazon [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-T1000-4ad-Channel-Ampllifier/dp/B004T166YK#productDetails"]Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate Power Series T1000-4ad 4 Channel Ampllifier: Car Electronics[/ame] RF Link http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...?itemid=116206 Question about the subs 4ohm or 2ohm it doesn't matter with the T1k-4ad as you can run the channels at 4,2,1 ohms |
05-15-2013, 05:50 PM | #3 |
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thanks for the reply!
what can i do to avoid maxing out the alternator? would a capacitor help? i was debating whether i should go for 2 8 inch subs instead of 10s (same brand) since i want bass, but not absurdley insane amount bass that you cant hear the music, and they would also require less power |
05-15-2013, 06:10 PM | #4 |
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A cap won't help with electrical demands but it will make sure there's no noise on the high end spectrum of the audio chain... most stock electrical systems can support up to 1kw before upgrading the alt,batteries Etc. You should be fine as the amp will not constantly draw 150amps of current as music is dynamic, the amp will only ramp up output power when its needed. What are you gonna do as far as a head unit?
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05-15-2013, 06:11 PM | #5 |
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It depends on how much sound you want, for example; I'm running a 6.5" component set (Pioneer Premiere TC-S720-PRS) as active (individual channel for each tweeter and mid driver) EQ'd discretely at the head unit (Pioneer DEH-80PRS), and two 8".JL 8W3v3 subs, one in each corner of the trunk in small fiberglass enclosures. It's all being driven by a single 5ch Alpine PDX V9 and it sounds spectacular, 100w x 4, and one 500w mono channel for the subs. Even with only 500w at 2ohms (subs wired in parallel) they have enough power to vibrate the entire car and tickle my hair, but I never listen to it that loud. My goal was substantial improvement in SQ and I'm more than happy.
If you're looking for richer SQ more so than raw SPL, you won't need much power and shouldn't tax the alternator enough to worry about it. Definitely consider some sound deadening, as well. |
05-15-2013, 06:19 PM | #6 |
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That PDX v9 might also do the trick for you OP!
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05-15-2013, 06:32 PM | #7 |
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if you decide on the PDX v9 get 4ohm subs and wire in parallel to get a 2ohm load.
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05-15-2013, 06:41 PM | #8 |
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on the topic about power too much power is better than not enough. even if you never use all of it, it will be there when you need it, Some of the best SQ cars on the planet run high powered setups.
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05-15-2013, 08:13 PM | #9 |
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for HU, the BRZ came stock with a Pioneer AVIC-X9310BT ... i figured that would be good enough!?
so if i were to go with two 8 inch apline type R subs rated at 350 RMS each, and the Morel components which are 120 RMS, does that mean i should go with the RF t400-4 or t600-4 amp instead of t1000-4ad? |
05-15-2013, 08:26 PM | #10 |
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Does that deck have preamp outs? And you could go with any amp you choose its up to you but you want something that will power the subs without going into clipping to get decent volume or go with a very efficient enclosure!
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05-15-2013, 08:30 PM | #11 |
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The enclosure will determine how loud the subs get more than the amount of power on them. I've ran a DD9512g a 3+kw sub on a kicker zx300.1 and was louder than guys with 2 subs. Have you ever heard of pwk designs? Pete will design you a very efficient enclosure to where you don't need kilowatts to get loud check him out!
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05-15-2013, 10:09 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
For example I'm running 400rms on each of my doors 6.5" midbass, 150w per 3.5" midrange, and 75w (class A) on the tweeters. It is tuned so that I have full volume control range of my head without distortion or clipping. Where you see some guys with say 50w even and they cant turn it up past halfway without issues. |
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05-15-2013, 10:59 PM | #14 |
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Looks like a simliar system to mine. I'm running a PDX V9 as the amp, with a SWR-10D4 for the sub (still waiting for the box though). For the speakers I'm running Hertz HT-25 Tweeters and Focal Polyglass 6.5 mids, each with their own channel from the amp. Sounds amazing, and using the active crossover on the amp gives you a lot more control then a standard passive crossover.
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