(Boosted) Blown Motor Advice - AFTER RECALL

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by pbirmingham1988

Thanks for the advice. My only issue now is that the built block that I bought has a compression of 10.5:1 with the JE Pistons, and now I don't know if that's a good combination with the Garrett 2860R now.

I'm not sure why people continue to do that and go with lower compression. Lower compression should be a thing of the past. The turbo will be ok, but you will just have to run a lot more boost to run the same amount of power as a car with the same turbo and the OE compression. In my opinion, going with a lower compression doesn't make any sense. I would have kept the compression the same, put in some really good rods and some bearings and called it a day. The fact that we have BOTH port and direct injection saves us from needing to go with a lower compression.

[ybotspawn]

Maybe I'm naive, but if this is your 400 crank horsepower daily, have you not thought of transmission upgrades? Our transmission isn't bad, but start to break the 350whp threshold and they begin to show some weakness.

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[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by pbirmingham1988

Hello Everybody,

So… I ran into a beautiful problem last week, and my MOTOR BLEW AFTER I got my 2013 Scion FRS back from the TOYOTA RECALL. Toyota refused to help me because I’m boosted (Turbo: JDL Garrett 2860R). However, I received the car back with oil, coolant, and transmission leaks, and I returned the car back to the dealership with those concerns. They claimed there were no leaks, and 2 weeks later my motor threw a rod and blasted a nice sized hole right through the block. Oh… and my heads look finished too so I need new heads as well. Also, everything is doused in oil and coolant. Mind you, I had a CEL and the codes that were thrown were P0700 & P2757. P2757 reads as Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off.

I’ve never had a motor blow on me before, so I’m scared to put everything back together, and it blows all over again.

Sooo… my question is What list of parts do I need for repairs if I wanted to go for 400whp and keep in mind this is my daily?

I recently bought a new short block with the current specs:
10.5:1 JE Pistons & Ring Kit
CP Carrillo Rods
KING Bearings for rod and main bearings
WPC Treatment
ARP bolts (case)

My current build:
JDL UEL GTX 2860R Turbo w/ PTP T3 Turbo Blanket (295 Tq - 355whp on e85)
Moto-East Flex Fuel Kit
Deatschwerks 700cc Injectors
Deatschwerks dw300 Fuel Pump
Radium Single Catch Can
Motiv Overpipe
HKS Dual Resonated Frontpipe
Borla Catback
Perrin Oil Cooler
Stark Performance Transmission Cooler

Now I’ve been told I need to purchase the following:
1000cc Injectors
Upgraded Fuel Lines
Heads with Supertech dual retainer springs, black nitride intake (OEM), and Inconel exhaust (OEM)
ARP Bolts for the heads
Reimax Oil Pump
Fluidampr Harmonic Dampener
2 x 3/16” hose clamps
Sparkplugs (Brand?)

I have bought all the new OEM gaskets from Toyota already. Am I missing anything here or is some of this overkill? Thanks in advance for all your input.

Sorry to hear about your motor, sad how this recall has played out. You might want to check out our build here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133475 on the latest car. Basically what we tried to do there is use make some budget conscious decisions that at the same time will help with reliability and max out the strength that you have with the open deck. Big things that are strongly recommended are the oil pump, oil baffle, valve springs and head studs. Rods and pistons you have many great options, but the high end rod bolts aren't needed below 9000 RPM. Reimax makes a thicker oil pump now. Some have had concerns regarding using the baffle plate in conjunction with the a high volume oil pump, logic being that the baffle slightly reduces oil return speed and the oil pump can empty the oil pan quickly. These are all things we see on the RB platform but on the FA20 I'm not quite so sure. We just completed the motor build and will be track testing the setup once we get the turbo on, but I don't think the oil pump/baffle option will be a problem. There is still space around the baffle and the flaps are very soft at high engine temps so there should be no issue with return. Emptying the oil pan is always a concern at high g turns and sustained RPMs, but the only way to properly address that is with an oil pressure failsafe map using EcuTek (short of a dry sump).

Stock fuel lines are good to 550+ whp on e85. 700's are good to 450+ whp on e85.

For spark plugs use OEM, and I do not recommend using ARP case bolts unless you line hone the cases. Valvetrain wise we usually use GSC beehive springs, they are light and will go north of 8000 RPM no problem. We have not seen any melted OEM valves with good tuning so unless you go oversize you can probably keep those.

Bearing wise we used aftermarket bearings in 2015-6 and went back to OEM in 2017 due to some QC issues, however, I think that was likely just one batch. This last motor we went to King bearings, slightly undersized for extra clearance.

Hopefully that helps you a bit.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by Xero-Limit

Sorry to hear about your motor, sad how this recall has played out. You might want to check out our build here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133475 on the latest car. Basically what we tried to do there is use make some budget conscious decisions that at the same time will help with reliability and max out the strength that you have with the open deck. Big things that are strongly recommended are the oil pump, oil baffle, valve springs and head studs. Rods and pistons you have many great options, but the high end rod bolts aren't needed below 9000 RPM. Reimax makes a thicker oil pump now. Some have had concerns regarding using the baffle plate in conjunction with the a high volume oil pump, logic being that the baffle slightly reduces oil return speed and the oil pump can empty the oil pan quickly. These are all things we see on the RB platform but on the FA20 I'm not quite so sure. We just completed the motor build and will be track testing the setup once we get the turbo on, but I don't think the oil pump/baffle option will be a problem. There is still space around the baffle and the flaps are very soft at high engine temps so there should be no issue with return. Emptying the oil pan is always a concern at high g turns and sustained RPMs, but the only way to properly address that is with an oil pressure failsafe map using EcuTek (short of a dry sump).

Stock fuel lines are good to 550+ whp on e85. 700's are good to 450+ whp on e85.

For spark plugs use OEM, and I do not recommend using ARP case bolts unless you line hone the cases. Valvetrain wise we usually use GSC beehive springs, they are light and will go north of 8000 RPM no problem. We have not seen any melted OEM valves with good tuning so unless you go oversize you can probably keep those.

Bearing wise we used aftermarket bearings in 2015-6 and went back to OEM in 2017 due to some QC issues, however, I think that was likely just one batch. This last motor we went to King bearings, slightly undersized for extra clearance.

Hopefully that helps you a bit.

At which oil pressure would your failsafe custom map activate?
thanks

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

At which oil pressure would your failsafe custom map activate?
thanks

This would be profiled for each car. You would have to log it first, and then we set thresholds somewhat below to ensure it does not trigger needlessly.

[tomm.brz]

got it
does it depend mostly on specific oil used, or is really so different for each car?
where do you usually attach the sensor output? rear o2, cpc?

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

got it
does it depend mostly on specific oil used, or is really so different for each car?
where do you usually attach the sensor output? rear o2, cpc?

Don't forget that pressure varies with RPM. I have this on my car for a while now using rear O2 input. I would guess that the oil pressure trips would depend on where the sensor is as the pressures seen are different.

[tomm.brz]

where did you put your sensor kodename? in place of stock sensor?
i d like to do too but my rear o2 is occupied by the wideband, and i never figured out what do i have to do to use the cpc input,... i don t even know where it is located and what I have to do/to cap/to remove in the EVAP system to be able to use this input

[the new guy]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

where did you put your sensor kodename? in place of stock sensor?
i d like to do too but my rear o2 is occupied by the wideband, and i never figured out what do i have to do to use the cpc input,... i don t even know where it is located and what I have to do/to cap/to remove in the EVAP system to be able to use this input

You can tap the engine galley plug on top for an oil pressure sensor. Other people tap the sandwich plate of their oil cooler.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/files...e%20Sensor.pdf is what I used.

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

where did you put your sensor kodename? in place of stock sensor?
i d like to do too but my rear o2 is occupied by the wideband, and i never figured out what do i have to do to use the cpc input,... i don t even know where it is located and what I have to do/to cap/to remove in the EVAP system to be able to use this input

This is the harness for the "CPC" input, also known as the evap harness. You can use MAF voltage as well if using a full speed density tune.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by Xero-Limit

This is the harness for the "CPC" input, also known as the evap harness. You can use MAF voltage as well if using a full speed density tune.

so the only way to feed the cpc input is to connect directly to the ecu? isn t there a simplier contact like the reae o2 input that you can plug directly into the black harness for the rear lambda?

What do I have to disable/disconnect to be able to use the cpc input without problems? do i have to remove evap solenoid?

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

where did you put your sensor kodename? in place of stock sensor?

With the stock sensor in T

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

so the only way to feed the cpc input is to connect directly to the ecu? isn t there a simplier contact like the reae o2 input that you can plug directly into the black harness for the rear lambda?

What do I have to disable/disconnect to be able to use the cpc input without problems? do i have to remove evap solenoid?

If you have an aftermarket wideband in the rear o2 then the evap is the next choice. You do not have remove the evap solenoid or anything, it can be left on. The evap INPUT is used on JDM cars and not the USDM, so it can be hijacked without a problem.

[tomm.brz]

I have a EU car
what i do not understand is, can i connect to a more comfortable point under the hood to reach the cpc input, or the only way is to go directly to the pin in the ecu?
thanks