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Old 02-04-2019, 11:52 AM   #15
finch1750
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Yeah I tried that. Car won't start, just go into accessory when turning the key all the way

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I understand. The car doesn't have to start to check voltage.

Just take the batter to Autozone or something and have it tested then
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:53 AM   #16
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I understand. The car doesn't have to start to check voltage.



Just take the batter to Autozone or something and have it tested then
It's about 11.85 when off and 11.5x when trying to turn it over

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Old 02-04-2019, 11:54 AM   #17
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It's about 11.85 when off and 11.5x when trying to turn it over

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It's at 11.5 in ACC and 11.5 when holding it to Start? It should drop when holding it in Start
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:55 AM   #18
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Yes

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Old 02-04-2019, 11:56 AM   #19
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Boost it and see what happen.
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:03 PM   #20
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Yes

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The easiest thing to do is take the battery down to Autozone or something to have tested. Otherwise troubleshooting just gets more time consuming and complex.

Because your battery seems dead based on the resting voltage and is the strongest battery ever when cranking. So I'd still start there.
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:24 PM   #21
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The easiest thing to do is take the battery down to Autozone or something to have tested. Otherwise troubleshooting just gets more time consuming and complex.

Because your battery seems dead based on the resting voltage and is the strongest battery ever when cranking. So I'd still start there.
We get this same issue brought up every month or so. Nobody ever seems to want to start with the battery. Look at all the posts in this thread alone that are saying "starter" or "alternator". The results of these threads where it just stopped working are the battery at least 99% of the time yet people still want to try everything else first.


Electrical trouble shooting hierarchy


1 - Power supply
2 - power transfer (wires and fittings)
3 - Powered equipment.


Don't start looking at equipment if you can not confirm supply.
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:27 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
We get this same issue brought up every month or so. Nobody ever seems to want to start with the battery. Look at all the posts in this thread alone that are saying "starter" or "alternator". The results of these threads where it just stopped working are the battery at least 99% of the time yet people still want to try everything else first.


Electrical trouble shooting hierarchy


1 - Power supply
2 - power transfer (wires and fittings)
3 - Powered equipment.


Don't start looking at equipment if you can not confirm supply.
Will do! Thank you

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Old 02-04-2019, 12:36 PM   #23
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Holy crap people, 11.8V isn't slightly low, it's beyond discharged.

A 12V battery is full between 12.6 and 12.8, and below 12.2 is considered completely discharged. Below 12.4 it shouldn't even be load tested.
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:37 PM   #24
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Holy crap people, 11.8V isn't slightly low, it's beyond discharged.

A 12V battery is full between 12.6 and 12.8, and below 12.2 is considered completely discharged. Below 12.4 it shouldn't even be load tested.
Going to get it tested and get a new battery

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Old 02-04-2019, 01:20 PM   #25
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As someone who just bought a new battery, go to the dealership. It was one of the cheapest and had the best warranty.

$110 with 7 year warranty.
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Old 02-04-2019, 02:57 PM   #26
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As someone who just bought a new battery, go to the dealership. It was one of the cheapest and had the best warranty.

$110 with 7 year warranty.
I find it hilarious that they offer a 7 year warranty on a replacement battery but the one that comes with the car is only covered by the general new car warranty.


I put a new battery in my car yesterday. The dealership wanted $180 for the stock one. I got a better one for $160.
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Old 02-04-2019, 03:38 PM   #27
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It's a sports car; not a Jeep. It isn't supposed to turn over.
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Old 02-04-2019, 03:44 PM   #28
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It's a sports car; not a Jeep. It isn't supposed to turn over.
Well it can. Once.
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