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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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02-19-2020, 08:31 PM | #1 |
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Turbo supporting mods
I'm buying a Greddy T518Z turbo within the next couple of weeks and I just want someone to look over my list of supporting mods I have so far and to let me know if there's anything else I should buy. This will only be for daily driving so I won't be upgrading fuel components and I'm not running a BOV.
So far I have: T518Z turbo kit 3bar map sensor oil pan with pre-welded oil return fitting aftermarket crash bar boost gauge oil catch can Anything missing that you would recommend? is it necessary to have an oil temp gauge or oil cooler if I'm running <10psi? what about a turbo blanket and wrapping my headers? Thanks |
02-19-2020, 08:35 PM | #2 | |
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02-19-2020, 10:05 PM | #3 |
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STI PCV Valve, the stock one is not designed for boost. The STI one has a check valve that will seal off and keep you from pushing boost into your crank case.
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02-19-2020, 10:19 PM | #4 | |
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He already has a catch can, likely will delete it.
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02-19-2020, 11:17 PM | #5 | |
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02-19-2020, 11:30 PM | #6 | |
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https://www.reddit.com/r/ft86/commen...car_read_this/ See this thread http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=20 |
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02-19-2020, 11:31 PM | #7 |
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02-19-2020, 11:44 PM | #8 |
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Cheap insurance against compressor surge and better response.
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02-19-2020, 11:52 PM | #9 | |
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On-throttle compressor surge is a major issue, and will wreak havok; a BOV won't address this in any way. A BOV releases pressure, meaning you have to re-pressurize more between shifts, or during modulation. |
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02-20-2020, 12:05 AM | #10 | |
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Depending on the extent of the surge, pressure can stop or reverse flow. Wouldn’t it be better to have a compressor that is continuing to spin instead of not spinning or reverse spinning? It is like the difference in heal-toeing to maintain rpms as high as possible versus dropping rpms to idle or going in reverse; the goal is a seamless transition.
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02-20-2020, 01:30 AM | #11 | |
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02-20-2020, 04:51 AM | #12 | |
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back to the topic at hand, i recently did a turbo build. you can find it in this forum. depending on climate, unless you are going to track this car an oil cooler is not necessary, but wont hurt. I live in queensland australia which averages about 33 degrees C this time of year (about 91 F) and my temps rarely exceed 100 (210 F) unless im going balls to the wall for extended periods (which you shouldnt be doing on the road anyway) Oil pan is quite easy to do yourself, we ended up brazing our fitting in in the end. all we needed was a blow torch and some brass braze. as for supporting mods, if you are just going for wastegate pressure no need to touch fuel yet, and stock clutch should be ok for anything below 8 PSI. there really is not much needed to FI these cars when you are only targeting ~300hp. as for sensors, we ended up monitoring AFR, boost, oil temp and oil pressure. I would simply suggest that what ever you choose to get/do, do it with good quality components. good gaskets, brass oil feed adapters, lines, fittings, oil, etc. Last edited by krauterz; 02-20-2020 at 05:02 AM. |
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02-20-2020, 05:09 AM | #13 |
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I have a Forester heat exchanger, more to get oil temps up faster so I can thrash it sooner.
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02-20-2020, 06:55 AM | #14 |
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