Choosing brake pads for daily and track

[MassTroy]

I've got a stock brake system for my BRZ and I'm looking for new brake pads. I daily drive my car and I don't feel like changing the brakes every time I go to the track, but I will change back to stock for the winter.

I've been running Hawk HP+ but I've dealt with a lot of rotor wear and had a decent amount of fade on the track towards the end of a session. Also a lot of dust and squeal but not sure if I can avoid that.

I want something that will operate at ambient temperatures for daily driving, with fade resistances at higher temps than what I have. Currently I'm looking at either the G-LOC R6 (identical to Carbotech AX6) or the Winmax W3. Any suggestions on choosing between these pads?

G-LOC:
Front: http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...t86-front.html
Rear: http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...gt86-rear.html

Winmax:
Front: http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...preza-wrx.html
Rear: http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...preza-wrx.html

[JazzleSAURUS]

G-LOC R6 description right on the product page says that it's a horrible street pad.

Winmax W3 seems like a decent compromise, though I'm not sure I understand the value proposition to the W3 vs W4 based on their performance based on temperature chart.



Some of the recommendations around the net I found is that the W3 is great for aggressive street driving, with light track use, (sounds good for a weekend car that gets beat on everywhere it goes, might see a track day.)

I don't think you'll like the results from a compromise pad.

[wparsons]

R6 is an autox pad, if you're overheating HP+ you'll definitely overheat the R6. No direct experience with winmax pads, but I imagine you'll have the same issue with W3's. I'm daily driving R10's right now, and there's some noise and dust, but I just turn up the music if it's annoying me. I've heard good things about the HP Street/Race pads from a friend, but there's probably still going to be some noise.

[LOLS2K]

You might not like this answer:

Run dedicated track and street pads.

[Shark_Bait88]

I've gotta agree with @LOLS2K, it's the better decision for your car, safety on track, and wallet in the long run.

[RJasonKlein]

Dedicated street and dedicated track pads are the best solution. That said, if you're like me and unwilling to go through that hassle, I'd recommend looking at the Project Mu Racing999 pad. It's a sintered compound that has some unique advantages. It's generally quiet on the street with a ridiculous amount of torque when cold, but still has a very high maximum operating temperature that works great on the track - the only downside is that they're expensive. I got mine from @CounterSpace Garage and highly recommended them.

[Pat]

Also consider Ferodo DS2500 as a dual-purpose pad.

[ZDan]

I've streeted/tracked for months on Carbotech XP8 in the S2000, XP10 in the RX-7. Not bad at all... Some dusting but it cleans up relatively easily

[Icecreamtruk]

Ferrodo DS2500 or Hawk Street-race (also known as dtc-30). Skip another set of HP+ or other "street but trackable" pads, they are a waste of money.

Also, when you go to the track, make sure to use the first session to heat up the pads, put a lot of steady heat into them and then just cool them down (several laps without touching the brakes) and let them cooloff at the pits. For your next session, and the rest of the day, and quite a few days after the track session, you rotor will have a transfert layer of pad material onto them. They will brake better, and they will not squeal when you brake while the layer lasts. Basically this is bedding, except that you cant really bed track pads at the street, so you have to do it at the track, and every time you go (cuz the layer will be cleaned off during street use, since the pad doesnt heat nearly enough).

[MassTroy]

@JazzleSAURUS The G-LOC R6 says it is "widely used for street" but "NOT recommended for road racing". But it seems like it should be able to handle the 20 minute HPDE sessions that I've done. The reason I'd choose the Winmax W3 instead of the W4 is price and its cold temp seems to be lower.

@wparsons I might consider doing the R8 instead of the R6. But it says its min temp is 74F as opposed to 0F. The R6 still looks like it is more fade resistant than the HP+.

@LOLS2K, @Shark_Bait88, and @RJasonKlein you're probably right that dedicated race and street pads would be better. But I'd rather not have to deal with it before and after every event. I already have to get to the track super early, and the city with no garage makes it a pain.

@RJasonKlein those Project Mu Racing999 are pretty expensive and look like they are rated for 200-800. Seems like they'd eat rotors when cold and fade quicker than the R6 or W3 would.

@Pat the Ferodo DS2500 looks pretty nice, but it looks like it fades after 600 degrees

[Shark_Bait88]

Originally Posted by MassTroy

@LOLS2K, @Shark_Bait88, and @RJasonKleinI already have to get to the track super early, and the city with no garage makes it a pain.

Been there, done that.

Doing it the day before and a day or two after the event makes it much more bearable.

The city part is definitely tricky, but there are a good number of solutions to that conundrum. Do them at a friend's place the day before (you're welcome to come do them at the new storage unit I'm moving to near Schaumburg), parking garages can work (I've done it before), there's that new garage place (although it seems pricey), and other options if you get creative.

It's definitely more of a pain, and I know it can be taxing. It's just a matter of weighing the costs and benefits. If you really are set on a single pad, I'd opt for something with greater focus on the track. I'd much rather deal with dusting and noise from an aggressive track pad while street driving than risk cooking a more street oriented pad while on track at speed.

[Colin86]

I've used the Hawk HP+ pads on another platform for split duty and just put Hawk Street/Race pads on my FRS.

Haven't been to the track yet in the FRS with the new Street/Race pads but compared to the HP+ (admittedly on another platform) the Street/Race pads are quieter, way easier to modulate, and seem to perform more consistent when on the street/cold. The Street/Race pads still make some noise on slow stops, and the dusting is perhaps worse than anything I've seen on the street.... but so far I'm happy with them and would recommend you give them a shot.

Hawk lists the HP+ as being able to handle up to 800 degrees, and the Street/Race as being able to handle 1200 degrees. If you're barely fading the HP+, the Street/Race should work well for you.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by MassTroy

@Pat the Ferodo DS2500 looks pretty nice, but it looks like it fades after 600 degrees

It has the most stable coefficient of friction over a wide temperature range than any streetable pad I am aware of. You are choosing to compromise with all of these. I stand behind my recommendation.

[Shinigami301]

Tires are part of the equation as well- you don't mention whether you're running street tires or track sets.

For street tires and light track use I've had acceptable results with Endless MXRS. I buy mine when I visit Japan and end up spending about 2/3rds of the cost here.

They do require more wheel cleaning than the stockers though