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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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01-13-2021, 07:29 AM | #1 |
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How GOOD are IAG short blocks?
Just like the title says this thread is for discussion of recent IAG short block builds... Thinking about purchasing one anyone have any recent feedback or experiences with IAG? Thank you
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01-13-2021, 07:40 AM | #2 |
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I've seen plenty of good blocks with goofy installs, plenty of good blocks with good installs, and a couple blocks with bad machining from them. Read their recommendations and follow them to the T. Especially head gasket thickness, recommended oil weight, start up and break in procedure, etc.
Make sure the builder is someone who understands the FA series of Subaru engines; it is not like the EJ. Any low production engine block service is likely to have some jig or machining issues once in a blue moon; just be in close contact with the builder and ask a lot of questions and make sure everything seems good (deck clearance mostly) and you should be good. The more " built" an engine is (closed deck, bored, sleeved, etc) the more points of failure you're introducing. The closer you stay to stock measurements, the more likely you are to be safe from machining mishaps I have one sitting in the room I'm typing this in. Should be going in within a couple months ( I hope). I watch several IAG blocks get installed on EJ and FA cars monthly at a shop I help out at (not an employee, I just do menial tasks for them since they're close friends of mine) Very rarely have there been issues, but I will say that getting IAG to cover something with their warranty is nearly impossible. Edit: If you don't mind discussing it, why do you feel that you'd like a built block? Unless you've put a window in your block, I'd suggest having a shop tear your current functioning engine apart and just replace the pistons/rods/bearings in accordance with your power goals. A block from a company like IAG isn't inherently stronger; you're paying for them to install and machine stock casehalves to fit. A lot of the cost of the build is casehalves (that you already have and can re-use unless you put a hole in it from some sort of failure)
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
JDL EL Recirc manifold, Boostlab BL58x Turbo w/ T51R, 17x9 ARC-8, IAG block Last edited by DarkPira7e; 01-13-2021 at 07:58 AM. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to DarkPira7e For This Useful Post: | brandonblt2 (02-01-2024), Joveen (01-13-2021) |
01-13-2021, 10:19 AM | #3 |
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When my motor went south after the recall I used an IAG shortblock. While everything needed to be RE done it made sense to be to use a block rated for over double the hp that it puts out. Better internals and improved oiling. The most important factor is the shop doing the work. I searched out the best and it wasnt cheap however going through what I did with breaking down in the middle of the freeway far from home is something I’d rather not do again and the IAG seemed like good insurance.
If you re use the heads, etc there is a lot of follow up work to do and if you have an oil cooler it needs to be replaced. These are things to do if there is metal in the engine |
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01-13-2021, 01:39 PM | #4 |
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Not bad if you don’t mind making warranty claims. Make sure your install is meticulous and well documented.
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01-13-2021, 01:56 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
50 Miles 500 miles 1500 miles All with break in oil All must be documented The IAG Block, the right shop, the correct break in period and staying NA. If this isn't as bulletproof as possible I don't know what is and be sure to use the KB oil pickup tube |
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01-13-2021, 11:19 PM | #6 |
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I went with outfront closed, Killer B pick up, greddy baffle and while set for 6-700 hop I am only looking for no more than 400hp. I do have full break in oil and doing 50, 500, 1000 and 3000 mile break in.
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