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04-24-2020, 11:31 AM | #15 | ||
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You're going to want a real amp to power real speakers, which is going to require real wiring. ------- EDIT: Reading through this thread again, it seems the OP has no idea what he really wants. He went from wanting an amp setup that would power new door speakers from the OEM head unit, to getting a new headunit, to saying he wants to power a subwoofer with it. If we add all this up at face value, it sounds like he's replacing all the door speakers, putting in a new headunit, and adding a subwoofer. No way are you powering that off the factory wiring. Unless he tells us exactly what he's wanting to do, we can't find solutions. Let's consider good practices in upgrading your audio system: Headunit is preference, you can make it work with OEM or aftermarket. Most find better results with aftermarket, but in the end it doesn't matter when it comes to wiring. Just keep in mind that with an aftermarket unit, best quality is from running appropriate RCA wires from the matching level outputs on the rear of the unit along with a remote turn-on wire. So, new set of wires #1. New door and dash speakers should be run with new wiring. Factory wiring is notoriously bad with anything beyond factory signals, so you want something that can carry a beefier signal. So right there, you already want to run new wires at least in the interior. New set of wires #2. Adding a new amp is going to play directly into this. A good ground is essential in all equipment, so utilizing a factory ground may or may not pose problems. Best way to avoid any potential issues with that is to run a dedicated ground for the new amp. To do all this, and not consider upgrading the source of power, is useless. A dedicated power supply of appropriate gauge wiring will protect the circuit and ensure the amp gets the juice it needs. New set of wires #3. All that, and then adding a subwoofer, is going to increase the power draw and ground requirements of the amp. Depending on the setup, maybe even a second amp and power distro blocks with a larger gauge wire from the battery to the blocks. So yeah, run new wires for your audio system. Don't try to use stock wires. Last edited by sharpsicle; 04-24-2020 at 11:51 AM. |
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04-24-2020, 11:57 AM | #16 | |
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I agree with you. My only thought is that if the OP's most important criteria (for whatever reason) is to use the factory wiring, there is a way to gain a little more power for the doors and add a minimal subwoofer function without new wiring. It's not what I would do but it fits his one clear criteria. |
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04-24-2020, 08:07 PM | #17 | |
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you're right, the ktp-445u would connect to the existing power. but it's a ton of money and headache for an almost immeasurable performance difference. there are no adapter harnesses for the factory amp connections, which means that every wire must be cut into, risking potential irreversible damage that would require a whole-vehicle body harness if anything got cut too short, or to re-connect the factory setup. the ktp-445u will work at 90 watts rms bridged-- so it could potentially work for a sub with a ton of caveats. but it only contains high pass filters, which means that a line level converter must be used, as well as an external crossover. line level converters are non-powered, but most external crossovers are powered, which can potentially be powered by the same existing circuit, but leaves extremely limited headroom in the circuit, posing a potential issue to the sound cutting out and blowing the fuse, from enthusiastic turns of the volume knob. so basically, to avoid wiring through the firewall, it's functionally possible, but one would end up rewiring half of the existing system, using a bunch of gear that has limited use for any other purpose-- a purpose that this setup would fill better on paper than reality, and end up costing roughly the same as it would to just simply run a power wire through the firewall to a proper amplifier setup. and if i'm going to do all that work, jamming my big body into a trunk to do all those connections, it'd better be friggin worth it!
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04-24-2020, 11:37 PM | #18 | |
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These are the installation instructions but of course they don't go into any wiring detail. http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/...190-20inst.pdf
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04-25-2020, 01:55 AM | #19 | |
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If it's not, more wiring would need to be done behind the radio to force the amp on with the ignition. Besides that, it shouldn't be extremely terrible. The assumption I've otherwise made, assuming the radio is properly telling the amp to do it's thing, is that the radio is sending out high level/speaker level audio, when the amp is expecting low level audio. To convert it, you need to cut a line output converter into the factory wiring before the amp to make the right signal, and then a rca interconnect cable needs to be cut up and connected to the amp to give it the signal it wants. Given your wireless subwoofer preference, just about any competent car audio shop should be able to handle it all in less than a day and about $50 ($862.41CA) in parts But i can work up a diagram later if you would prefer to shoehorn yourself into the tiny recesses of the trunk for a fun weekend project.
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04-25-2020, 02:09 AM | #20 | |
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04-25-2020, 02:39 AM | #21 |
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Yes, but there's 2 'power' wires. There's the main power and then theres the 'remote turn on/trigger' wire, which is basically the radio telling the amp to do something.
In digging some more, it appears the factory amp uses speaker level inputs, so it 'should' be even simpler in that all that needs to be done is connect the trigger wire to the accessory wire behind the radio. According to this for a 2013: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24658 On the 10 pin connector behind the radio, pin 3 is supposed to be a black/blue wire, which should be the ignition circuit. On the same connector, pin 9 is supposed to be a brown wire. That is supposed to be the amp trigger. Connecting this with pin 3 should turn the amp on whenever the car is on(after reversing the Hakone installation method). But i would first meter the connections to verify, as those guides are consistently wrong with their colors, though they are usually pretty good about connector locations.
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04-25-2020, 10:11 AM | #22 |
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i should also add, getting the amp working is only to potentially fix the music audio problem. it's not going to correct the bluetooth issue you talked about, where a disembodied voice is still trapped within the door.
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04-25-2020, 01:56 PM | #23 |
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The question is, why didn't (or can't) they use the factory amp? I'm wondering if the the new HU has a higher speaker level output level than what the stock amp can handle. Does anyone know what the advertised output wattage is for the new HU?
Also: The diagram below shows what the jumper with the yellow wires is doing. Up until now, the dash midrange and tweeter speakers were 4 ohms each which when connected in parallel results in a 2 ohm load. The door speakers always used to be 2 ohms. With the jumper in place and if they are using the same drivers we would have 2 ohms in parallel with another 2 ohms resulting in a load of only 1 ohm presented to the HU amplifier. That is almost a dead short across the front speaker output of the HU and hopefully not what they did. If so, this may explain poor sound quality due to the HU amp distorting. Perhaps the Hakone (or all 2020 models) have different door speakers of a higher impedance value (4 ohms at least?) and may not sound the same as what came before??? Last edited by LimitedSlip; 04-25-2020 at 02:46 PM. |
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04-25-2020, 05:07 PM | #24 |
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that's a question i'm not sure we'll ever get answered. but it has crossed my mind since the hakone issues started popping up. they very intentionally changed things, for what appears to us to be no significant benefit.
but note that tcoat has said that bluetooth calls go only through the lower door speakers, meaning that there's some other significant changes made for the wiring as well. i have been curious to try a 4, 6, or 8 ohm speaker in the doors just to see if it makes a difference in the final quality, but i'd have to find a willing hakone victim first.
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04-25-2020, 06:46 PM | #25 | ||
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I wasn't aware of this:
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1. As Tcoat posted above, there are dealer installation instructions for the Harmon radio. What is in the dash when the 2020 models arrive at the Port of Entry? Some other HU? A hole in the dash? The Toyota web site seems to indicate that all 2020 86 models have a HU with "Clari-Fi" which is a Harmon trademark. So, no more Pioneer head units? 2. I can come up with two ways that the phone audio can work as Tcoat describes: a. The door speakers are wired directly to their own amplifier channel in the headunit. b. There is a low pass filter being applied to the phone audio eliminating the high frequency audio If 2a is the case it would explain how Harmon is dealing with the "short circuit load" concern. It would also require completely different wiring of the D49 dash junction connector AND four additional conductors to the rear of the HU. The usual 6 and 10 pin speaker plugs are already fully used. The 28 pin connector has a few available locations but it usually only carries low level signals, not speaker outputs. The instructions don't indicate that there are any new connectors on the rear of the HU. If 2b is the case, it might be some part of the "Clari-Fi" processing but reviews suggest that Clari-Fi boosts the highs, not eliminate them. And, eliminating the high frequencies from audio causes it to be muddy and unclear, the opposite of what would help clarify it. Conclusion? Someone needs to either find a 2020 wiring diagram or take a 2020 dash apart and make a few measurements. |
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04-25-2020, 07:21 PM | #26 |
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my conclusion is to rip the entire thing out and run wire that i know where both ends go. but some call that excessive for some reason.
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04-26-2020, 10:46 PM | #27 |
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I'm going to ask this here, while theres a current thread about audio going:
My driver door speaker is on it's way out, getting rattly. I was looking at interior partouts for a replacement, but I generally upgrade when something needs replacing Is there such thing as a drop in upgrade main door speaker upgrade? I am 100% not looking to get a new head unit, bigger amp, or anything else. I appreciate sound, but i simply am not invested that much.
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04-26-2020, 11:02 PM | #28 | |
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it might be worthwhile to consider changing to a 4 ohm speaker, but the output will suffer to some extent that i don't fully know until someone tries it. i hesitantly suggested this speaker as a replacement to another person, but haven't heard if they've even tried it. https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...-ohm--264-1148 could also try these: https://www.parts-express.com/pyrami...oofer--290-270 like i said, there really aren't any direct replacements/upgrades, unless oem+ starts selling individual speakers, and the options i'm listing will have an 'output tax' of a currently-unknown amount because of the different resistances.
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