KPower Industries K24 swap

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

Hmm, how much of that is just due to milage or user error. Not saying you in can't drive properly.lol I suspect vast majority aren't having issue yah know.

Track day abuse, so I would say that falls in the user error category I can still get away with both those shifts if I am slow and deliberate with them. Driving on the street it is not that noticeable.

[Petah78]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Right? Cams, set of springs and retainers. 240-260whp and 8200RPM

The only concern is drivability from a project car like this, you will always have to tinker. If it can be relatively problem free, this is a VERY attractive option. Maybe I don’t have faith in suby engines but I highly doubt the new FA24 is going to drive/perform better than the K24.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by Petah78

The only concern is drivability from a project car like this, you will always have to tinker. If it can be relatively problem free, this is a VERY attractive option. Maybe I don’t have faith in suby engines but I highly doubt the new FA24 is going to drive/perform better than the K24.

The amount tinkering is probably dependent on how far down the rabbit hole you go in the engine build. The K series aftermarket it amazing. You can build a near 300whp on 93oct in your garage. The lets be honest the FA24 will maybe/hopefully do near 230whp on E85 while a K24 does it with drop in cams on 91oct while saving 140lbs and more reliability.

[Petah78]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

The amount tinkering is probably dependent on how far down the rabbit hole you go in the engine build. The K series aftermarket it amazing. You can build a near 300whp on 93oct in your garage. The lets be honest the FA24 will maybe/hopefully do near 230whp on E85 while a K24 does it with drop in cams on 91oct while saving 140lbs and more reliability.

I am sure the engine (K24) is going to be solid. It’s the supporting parts like wiring, fuel lines, custom mounts, engine management etc. With the transmission sitting 4 inches further back, you are likely looking at a custom driveshaft. Will that cause more vibrations? Longevity? Stuff like that.

[ZDan]

The transmission is, I think, going to be at a very different angle vs stock. The stock engine sits very high, and at a significant angle, sloping downward going aft. K24 sits a lot lower, presumably closer to parallel with the ground. That would mean the stock diff will be oriented at the wrong angle (more nose-up) relative to the trans in the K24 swap. Hopefully this has been addressed and the trans output and diff input are parallel or very close to it...

[NoHaveMSG]

In their pictures looks like they are using a one piece aluminum driveshaft and the diff is lower then the transmission.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

The amount tinkering is probably dependent on how far down the rabbit hole you go in the engine build. The K series aftermarket it amazing. You can build a near 300whp on 93oct in your garage. The lets be honest the FA24 will maybe/hopefully do near 230whp on E85 while a K24 does it with drop in cams on 91oct while saving 140lbs and more reliability.

You forget to mention that a 300whp K24's life is measured in hours.

IMO, the real purpose of this swap is to run a mild K24 for a long time, rather than to get a short life high output K24.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You forget to mention that a 300whp K24's life is measured in hours.

IMO, the real purpose of this swap is to run a mild K24 for a long time, rather than to get a short life high output K24.

I didn't forget anything. I felt it wasn't needed. There was nothing particularly crazy with the 300whp builds as they were done with off the shelf parts and aren't even revving super high. Anyone seriously attempting one will see the pro-cons in their research and trials.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

I didn't forget anything. I felt it wasn't needed. There was nothing particularly crazy with the 300whp builds as they were done with off the shelf parts and aren't even revving super high. Anyone seriously attempting one will see the pro-cons in their research and trials.

It's a bit misleading for those unfamiliar with the K.

Making the power is easy, but making big NA power is not sustainable, and does result in a not so street friendly powerband.

On the other hand, for someone who is willing to rebuild annually (fairly inexpensive), a 40-50 hour K24 is friggin awesome.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's a bit misleading for those unfamiliar with the K.

Making the power is easy, but making big NA power is not sustainable, and does result in a not so street friendly powerband.

On the other hand, for someone who is willing to rebuild annually (fairly inexpensive), a 40-50 hour K24 is friggin awesome.

I'll agree to that. Personally I plan to stop at a stock K24A2 longblock with DIC, 50* cam gear and maybe type S oil pump. If I get bored of it in a few years that's when I'll start dumping money into the head.

[Petah78]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

I'll agree to that. Personally I plan to stop at a stock K24A2 longblock with DIC, 50* cam gear and maybe type S oil pump. If I get bored of it in a few years that's when I'll start dumping money into the head.

This is a stock TSX engine, right? How much HP will it yield with those mods? I believe this engine has true VTEC but I see people putting K20Z3 (8th gen si) heads on them. Why would they do that if the TSX engine already has true VTEC?

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by Petah78

This is a stock TSX engine, right? How much HP will it yield with those mods? I believe this engine has true VTEC but I see people putting K20Z3 (8th gen si) heads on them. Why would they do that if the TSX engine already has true VTEC?

Couldn't tell you, it was my understanding that those two in particular flow about same stock but the K20Z3 has more material available to open the ports up.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast

I'm just amazed how Subaru managed to make an all-aluminum 4 cylinder weigh 140 lbs more than another all-aluminum 4 cylinder - both fully dressed.

For those that don't know, these guys make the "K Miata" kits in the Miata world and they know what they're doing. I have absolutely no doubt in my mind this kit will be of the highest quality. Not to mention, 17+ FA20's sell for $3,000+ while you can pick up a decent K24 for like $600 lol

The 140lbs difference may be a combination of things that go beyond just the motor. I think the motors are probably close to 75-90 pounds different.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Don't forget the huge oil pan sub-assembly. Boxer crankshafts are usually quite a bit lighter though. I am a bit concerned with their use of the OE transmission.

The OEM transmission is not the strongest, but it is good enough. Many people are running double the power and torque. I'm running a bar of boost on E85. I have some gear grind, but I think this was more from the previous owner maybe missing 5th often than the transmission being faulty. The S2000 transmission is slightly better. I don't know if the choice to use the factory transmission is because it fit better, or they will be able to sell more parts, or they found that it reduces the costs for consumers.


I'm curious about their high horsepower transmission option. I don't know if they will use the CD009. If so then it will probably take some tunnel modifications if the engine sits against the firewall. The CD009 just barely fits with the FA20 with minor clearance issues.