Her name is Mystery ( •_• )>⌐■-■ (⌐■_■)

[FeRS]

Since the garage function still doesn't work I'll add my stuff here. My goal for this car is a cheap, reliable dual duty (just like everyone else). In my defense, I'm a uni student so I haven't the time, money, or energy to get expensive parts or properly swap pads for a track day or autocross. Currently staying within Gridlife street class rules with the build.

Future Plans
Baffled oil pan
JDM battery
maybe oil cooler (I run 5w30 so..)
Weds TC005s or Titan7 TS-5s

Mods
Suspension and Unsprung
Tein Flex Z
SPC LCAs
Whiteline adjustable end links
Bridgestone RE003s
Endless RF-650
CSG CP pads

Not Suspension
Steve 93oct Tune
JDL 4-2-1 Header
Invidia catless front pipe
Just Gerald Projects Trac-Box
Winjet fog lights

Misc
Motul fluids
Speedbleeders
Fumoto oil drain valve

Pics

[FeRS]

Got an OMP TRS-e seat from a friend for $50. Need to order seat rails and figure out if the resistor needed is 2.2 or 3.3 ohms for that airbag. I'll likely get the bride fancy one since I can order some buddy club rails at the same time.

The headroom for a helmet will be appreciated, I hate how cramped it is with a helmet now (I'm on the taller side with a fair bit of that height in my torso).

[FeRS]

Yearly update.

Swapped in an HKS super air filter and gold heat taped my stock airbox. Will it do much? probably not. Does it look cool? hell yes. Plus the GR VLN team does this on their endurance 86 so... I guess there's merit to it.

I have the JDL 4-2-1 headers on the way as well. Some DEI titanium exhaust wrap is sitting on my table waiting for that before I install. I'll also be trying out both a custom 93oct tune from Steve as well as the OFT v2.076 EL E85 tune to see which yields better results. There's a local shop with a dyno I'll go to and report back. With the intake and catless front pipe, I'm hoping for 200whp. I might put the stock front pipe on if it sounds bad though.

The car also passed 100,000mi which is scary, Subaru engine and all.

I really haven't done as much with the car as I had wanted to after swapping over to CSG CP pads--I had intended to increase my tracking/autox frequency but instead have barely touched the car in the past year. Instead I was busy finishing my undergrad and applying to grad school--c'est la vie. Maybe I'll do more now. Maybe not since I'll be busy with my masters. oh well.

[ihavefat]

How’s the street driving with the csg cp pads, in terms of dusting/noise/braking?

Also just noticed you are in ATL. Any dyno shops you recommend?

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by FeRS

The car also passed 100,000mi which is scary, Subaru engine and all.

Meh. Mine is at 2.2x that many miles and no issues to speak of, if you don't count the battery hold down that failed and shorted out some main breakers a few weeks ago.

[FeRS]

Originally Posted by ihavefat

How’s the street driving with the csg cp pads, in terms of dusting/noise/braking?

Also just noticed you are in ATL. Any dyno shops you recommend?

They've been amazing--quiet when bedded in but great stopping power. I used hawk pads before so honestly anything is low dust to me lol.

I was planning to go to Dynoproven--friend of a friend owns the shop over near the airport.

[FeRS]

Some updates:
I have the JDL 4-2-1 back on the car and flashed Steve's 93oct tune. The car has a very linear power profile now and it's great. My butt dyno says it's a lot faster but I still need to get around to validating that. Oh the car also sounds like a raspy Honda now. And I have it unwrapped--I felt a bit uncomfortable wrapping it knowing that my engine leaks a wee bit of oil.

I also installed Gerald's trap-box and a switch panel. In order:
[Pedal Dance] [ABS Disable] [Rad Fans 100%] [Seatbelt chime + TPMS disable]

The tutorial video that mentions just drilling a hole into the back of that cubby lies--you need to cut out the entire rear section unless you cut the power and ground daisy chain wires reeeally short. Regardless, the convenience of having a switch do the pedal dance is nice as hell and now having the ability to disable ABS for future track usage is also really nice.

I need to do some miscellaneous stuff to the car as well--I think my coilovers are set too low in the front as I get a weird lean and steering angle change when taking high G right handers. My front left is actually slightly lower than my right so I think it's just a setup issue.

I also tried relubing my caliper guide pins and I guess I was too conservative with the application. Went back to lube them more but now I get a pull to the right under heavy breaking and a single pin on the front left caliper refuses to spin smoothly no matter how much I lube it--I got another pin to replace it. If replacing that fixes this that would be nice as this is bothering the hell out of me.

My Flex Zs are also getting kinda old at this point so I've been bouncing the idea of a set of Tein's Mono Racing coilovers around in my head. I'll get these other issues sorted before I do that though.

[RToyo86]

JDL header definitely has that K20 Honda rasp with no resonators paired with certain catbacks.
CSG touring pairs really nicely with it if you want a quiet mellow setup.

May also want to consider the CSG tein flex A for a track capable street coil. CSG and RCE are great supporter on the forums.

[FeRS]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

JDL header definitely has that K20 Honda rasp with no resonators paired with certain catbacks.
CSG touring pairs really nicely with it if you want a quiet mellow setup.

I honestly don't mind the sound--I have the stock resonator and muffler in place, only the front pipe is changed from stock other than the header. Definitely an interesting smell with no cats.

Originally Posted by RToyo86

May also want to consider the CSG tein flex A for a track capable street coil. CSG and RCE are great supporter on the forums.

Definitely a contender--I've bought from them before and love their stuff. Tein's EDFC system also seems like a fun thing to add and play with so that's on the table as well--whether its the Active Pro for the active performance or the older EDFC II for being actually legal in like... any series lol.

[FeRS]

Couple fun updates:

On the happier side, I fixed the caliper issue--I had used a bit too much of the lithium soap grease when relubing the slide pins actually. This was resulting in the pin attempting to compress the lubricant when the boot was slid over it, pushing the pin back out. The caliper pistons were fighting this pressure when compressing against the pads resulting in an uneven braking force on different corners. Fixed that and the car no longer pulls when braking


On the stupider side, I measured my corner heights and I realized, once again, I'm an absolute bozo.

In inches measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well,
FL: 24.625 FR: 24.5
RL: 25.59 RR: 24.875

lol.

The Tein manual talks about a ratio when changing the heights of 1:1 in the front and 1:1.3 in the rear (that is, if you want to raise 1in on the wheel, change the rear coilover height by 1/1.3 inches). This seems very close to our motion ratios and I think more accurately these ratios would be 1:1.05 and 1:1.31 (1.05 being the inverse of 0.95 and 1.31 being the inverse of 0.763). I intend to raise these up to a 0.8in drop from stock, reflecting when Moto-P mentioned that a 20mm drop would be ideal for our suspension geometry.


I also found a nail in one of my tires. And I think my TOB is going bad again.