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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 10-22-2021, 05:34 PM   #15
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Thanks for answers. I'm always trying to rev match when going 2 -> 1 and it works in like 9 out of 10 cases but there's always this one that is embarrassing because from behind it looks like you stalled xD

I've been to Subaru dealership/service where I bought this car and asked about it, they said that I can lift back and engage 1st gear during warmup for a while cuz' that's how they do that in pits before races XDDD Those guys are wicked, they're racing competitively in MX5 Cup. I love this place typical dealerships are like "hurr durr not stock, gtfo, warranty voided" while those guys are like "ayo lets get you some nice set of coilovers, STI struts and semi slicks for a good start". Also they deadass called me p*ssy when I said I don't drive my MX5 NB now because it's cold outside. I guess that's one type of customer service XD

Okay so I guess I'll just get used to that and try more rev matching
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Old 10-22-2021, 05:44 PM   #16
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I also seem to often notice a lot of people talking about having a hard time shifting into first, unless stopped. It always intrigues me, because I never feel the need to shift into first UNLESS I am stopped. Are half the people ready to race when they start their car on their local street in cold weather??
In stop/go sometimes traffic slows to a crawl, but doesn't stop.

AT a low speed like that i'd like to be in first, but if i cant get it in first then i have to do any acceleration in second.

Not a big deal since any car has enough power to accelerate out of second from a stop but its alot smoother and not as bogged down in first.
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:02 PM   #17
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Thanks for answers. I'm always trying to rev match when going 2 -> 1 and it works in like 9 out of 10 cases but there's always this one that is embarrassing because from behind it looks like you stalled xD
What do you mean by rev matching? Rev matching is not double-clutching. Describe what you're doing.
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:44 PM   #18
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When doing 2-1 shift, push clutch in, move from 2nd to neutral, let clutch out and give it a blip of throttle, push clutch in and shift to first.
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Old 10-23-2021, 07:44 PM   #19
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When doing 2-1 shift, push clutch in, move from 2nd to neutral, let clutch out and give it a blip of throttle, push clutch in and shift to first.
Oh okay, I was just giving some throttle with clutch engaged when shifting 2->1. I wasn't releasing clutch on neutral. I'll try doing that.
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Old 10-25-2021, 03:53 PM   #20
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What oil? MT-90 works pretty well in low temps. I understand certain brands available to us may not be available to you but oil makes a big difference.
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Old 10-25-2021, 05:36 PM   #21
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Rev matching from 2 to 1 I doubt is necessary. When approaching a stoplight or stop sign just coast up to it in 2 with the clutch in and go to 1 after you're stopped and never force it. If you HAVE to go to 1 when moving just do it gently. Think of the shift knob as a raw egg.
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:23 PM   #22
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...and when that doesn't work because there is tremendous variation in effectiveness of the first gear limit mechanism, - some work properly while others allow syncro clutch engagement at any speed - forget what people say "should" be easy and do what works best for you.

It should NOT be easy to engage first on a roll. There is a mechanism in the first gear syncro to prevent [syncro] clutch engagement when the speed difference between output and input sides is too great. Both of my transmissions function normally but I've driven at least two others in which the device seemed to be missing altogether. I don't know why.
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Old 10-25-2021, 07:41 PM   #23
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...and when that doesn't work because there is tremendous variation in effectiveness of the first gear limit mechanism, - some work properly while others allow syncro clutch engagement at any speed - forget what people say "should" be easy and do what works best for you.

It should NOT be easy to engage first on a roll. There is a mechanism in the first gear syncro to prevent [syncro] clutch engagement when the speed difference between output and input sides is too great. Both of my transmissions function normally but I've driven at least two others in which the device seemed to be missing altogether. I don't know why.
My dad had an 89' CRX that was his commuter and had a similar issue. It would also pop out of gear if you let off the throttle. It was less of a problem when the block developed a window.
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:17 PM   #24
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It was less of a problem when the block developed a window.
LOL It's all about priorities.
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:39 PM   #25
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LOL It's all about priorities.
He refused to replace the trans until the engine blew. He drove it that way for 5-6 years. The way he saw it, it still worked
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:54 PM   #26
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My dad had an 89' CRX that was his commuter and had a similar issue. It would also pop out of gear if you let off the throttle. It was less of a problem when the block developed a window.

The syncro springs were probably flattened out which is what keeps it in gear. My Integra had this issue. It wouldn’t stay in 3rd when making a left hand turn without keeping it in place with my hand. Right hand turns were fine ofcourse because the g load would hold the syncro hub in place. The syncros were also completely worn out. It would only downshift if you double clutched. I drove it that way for over a year and to this day I can’t break the habit of double clutching. The syncros in my Twin are probably mint. Hahaha
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Old 11-03-2021, 07:31 AM   #27
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In Chicago winters (going on my 8th now with this car) it can take a long time to get the trans warmed up. I've made it halfway to work (about 5 miles) and the gears still feel stiff. The rule I use when its below freezing is let the car warm up until the heat im blasting inside starts to feel warm-ish, then I start driving. Take it slow and don't go above 3k. Someone already posted but the trans will "heat up" by using it. At stoplights, I'l keep my foot on the brake and clutch in, then move the shifter through all the gates to make sure nothing is sticking. Not sure if it does anything except make me feel better though.
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Old 11-03-2021, 08:04 AM   #28
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In Chicago winters (going on my 8th now with this car) it can take a long time to get the trans warmed up. I've made it halfway to work (about 5 miles) and the gears still feel stiff. The rule I use when its below freezing is let the car warm up until the heat im blasting inside starts to feel warm-ish, then I start driving. Take it slow and don't go above 3k. Someone already posted but the trans will "heat up" by using it. At stoplights, I'l keep my foot on the brake and clutch in, then move the shifter through all the gates to make sure nothing is sticking. Not sure if it does anything except make me feel better though.
Not sure this achieves much beyond wearing your clutch and synchromeshes.

In the advice-with-no-technical-reason-for-existence category, I found that making the level go through the neutral position when shifting from 1st to 2nd (without clutching in) helps the shifter get into 2nd gear smoothly.
The only explanation I found was that it ensures my timing's right and the primary shaft is spinning at the correct speed when I engage the gear.

I'd generally stay away from downshifting too much (especially under 20-25mph) in really cold weather, I'd rather reduce the pad's lifespan a bit than the clutch's & synchro's.
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