TEYES CC3 Android HU

[ermax]

So I had to swap my pins too.

Here I am highlighting the pins that need to be swapped:


Here you can see the pins in the correct positions after swapping:


Here you can see how to release the pin. I used a safety pin to run dead center above the pin until you see the latch lift. When it lifts it will turn more white. If it doesn't turn white then you probably missed the latch. Pull the safety pin out and try again. Once the latch lifts, press the wire into the socket a little to release it and then pull it out. Once both pins are removed you simply press them back into the socket and they should click into place.

[ermax]

So I installed this thing in the parking lot when I got off work. Hahaha. Took 15mins and that includes the time it took to connect to WiFi and then download/install the Car_Link app to add CarPlay support. At first the factory USB port wasn’t working so I pulled the HU back out and double checked the harness. Turns out the adapter wasn’t fully plugged in. It’s really tight so you have to push it really hard until it clicks. After that the port worked and wired CarPlay worked. Then I paired my phone with BT and now CarPlay will activate wirelessly. I need to download the Automate app and configure it to auto launch the CarLink app when ever my phone connects via BT because this will be my default use.

First boot only took about 6secs. Every boot after that is instant. Screen is really bright. Haven’t driven at night but I suspect it will be too bright at the default setting. Default has it at 100% when the headlights are off and 50% when they are on.

My backup camera isn’t working right now but I think that is because the reverse wire came loose. I literally just wedged the wire into the connector when I first added the camera to my OEM HU and it comes loose almost every time I mess with the HU. I have a jumper with actual pins that I never got around to installing so I will install that later today. Also, the OEM HU supplies 6v to the camera when you put it in reverse. It looks like the Teyes does not so I’ll need to rewire the camera to my backup lights for power I guess.

Edit: correction, the Teyes supplies 12v to the camera. Need to double check that my camera will run on 12v. I’m trying to avoid using the camera that came with the HU because it’s kind of a bitch to fish all the wires.

[ermax]

[ermax]

I connected the reverse wire and now it lowers the volume when I put it in reverse (because no one can backup with loud music playing) but I don't get video. I'm thinking that although the Teyes camera uses an RCA connection it must not actually be a composite video signal so my current camera isn't going to work with this HU. So I guess I get to fish the wires for this new camera. Fun fun.

[FR-S2GT86]

There are many more vehicles out there that are much more difficult to route wires through. Do yourself a favor and remove the back seat on the side that you plan to run the cables.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

There are many more vehicles out there that are much more difficult to route wires through. Do yourself a favor and remove the back seat on the side that you plan to run the cables.

Yeah it's not bad, I installed the camera I have now. The one I have now has slim connectors rather then standard RCA so it's easy to route. The camera that comes with this HU has a full size RCA connector so it's going harder to get through the rubber grommet.

Anyways I got my current camera working. I simply unplugged the harness from the HU and plugged it back in and it started working. So I guess I didn't have it pressed all the way in.

I'm excited to have adjustable guide lines now. I got it almost perfect so I the lines are actually useful now.

Next step is to test fit the camera that comes with the HU to see how it compares to the one I have now. If it's better I will go through the work of routing the wires properly.

[ymshulman]

Originally Posted by ermax

So I installed this thing in the parking lot when I got off work. Hahaha. Took 15mins and that includes the time it took to connect to WiFi and then download/install the Car_Link app to add CarPlay support. At first the factory USB port wasn’t working so I pulled the HU back out and double checked the harness. Turns out the adapter wasn’t fully plugged in. It’s really tight so you have to push it really hard until it clicks. After that the port worked and wired CarPlay worked. Then I paired my phone with BT and now CarPlay will activate wirelessly. I need to download the Automate app and configure it to auto launch the CarLink app when ever my phone connects via BT because this will be my default use.

First boot only took about 6secs. Every boot after that is instant. Screen is really bright. Haven’t driven at night but I suspect it will be too bright at the default setting. Default has it at 100% when the headlights are off and 50% when they are on.

My backup camera isn’t working right now but I think that is because the reverse wire came loose. I literally just wedged the wire into the connector when I first added the camera to my OEM HU and it comes loose almost every time I mess with the HU. I have a jumper with actual pins that I never got around to installing so I will install that later today. Also, the OEM HU supplies 6v to the camera when you put it in reverse. It looks like the Teyes does not so I’ll need to rewire the camera to my backup lights for power I guess.

Edit: correction, the Teyes supplies 12v to the camera. Need to double check that my camera will run on 12v. I’m trying to avoid using the camera that came with the HU because it’s kind of a bitch to fish all the wires.

@ermax, I see you’ve posted in the past that you’d used the iPhone dock connector on your OEM headunit instead of Bluetooth for better sound quality.

How does using the new headunit with wired CarPlay compare for sound quality? What about wireless?


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[ymshulman]

Also. Is there any reason to get one with more memory, if one does not plan to store music locally?

[ermax]

Originally Posted by ymshulman

@ermax, I see you’ve posted in the past that you’d used the iPhone dock connector on your OEM headunit instead of Bluetooth for better sound quality.

How does using the new headunit with wired CarPlay compare for sound quality? What about wireless?

It's hard to say so far. I haven't done a lot of listening so far. I've just been blowing though menus trying to figure out what can be done with this thing. I suspect CarPlay is lossless though. It's essentially AirPlay (which is lossless).

[ermax]

Originally Posted by ymshulman

Also. Is there any reason to get one with more memory, if one does not plan to store music locally?

I also didn't need extra storage but contemplated going up in storage because it also comes with more ram. I got the 3/32 version because I planned to spend most of my time in CarPlay which just offloads processing to the phone anyways. But even with just 3GB of RAM it runs apps smoothly. I wouldn't stress much over the RAM/storage unless you plan to make heavy use of Android or plan to store a lot of stuff offline.

[ymshulman]

Originally Posted by ermax

It's hard to say so far. I haven't done a lot of listening so far. I've just been blowing though menus trying to figure out what can be done with this thing. I suspect CarPlay is lossless though. It's essentially AirPlay (which is lossless).

Do you know if wireless CarPlay also lossless? - meaning if it uses Bluetooth for the connection then, or an ad-hoc wifi connection?

Nervous because I’ve never done an install like this, but they’re on sale now, and it’s a beautiful unit.


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[ymshulman]

One more thing. Hope it’s okay with all the questions:

How is the call quality? Does it (can it?) use a new mic that gets wired up?


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[ermax]

Originally Posted by Butterballz

How did you guys install the rearview camera? Did you follow the wiring diagram? It says to connect the ACC to G3 ACC so am I suppose to splice the G3 ACC wire? I have a FR-S, do I need to install a reverse trigger wire? Thanks!

Now that I have my camera working I can confirm a little more about how it wires up. The directions tell you to splice into the ACC line (which is sort of lame) for power and then connect to the reverse lights in the trunk as a trigger for when you are in reverse. You don't absolutely have to wire it that way though. I have a sub in my trunk so I already had a remote line into the trunk so my camera is powered by that. For a reverse trigger I am using a line that comes off a connector down around your knee on the left hand side (I'd have to dig around to find the details on which wire this is). Mine was already wired up this way for my OEM HU so it was easy to migrate to this new HU. My only hang up was that I didn't get the harness plugged in snug enough so I spun my wheels doing other trouble shooting for about 20mins. Ahhh.

If I was doing it from scratch I'd probably do it the way the instructions say and just use one of those crimp splice deals on the ACC line and use the backup lights for the reverse trigger (easier than standing on your head under the dash trying to splice into those lines).

[ermax]

Originally Posted by ymshulman

Do you know if wireless CarPlay also lossless? - meaning if it uses Bluetooth for the connection then, or an ad-hoc wifi connection?

Nervous because I’ve never done an install like this, but they’re on sale now, and it’s a beautiful unit.

Correct, Wireless CarPlay only uses BT for the setup which initiates a WiFi Direct connection. There is more than enough bandwidth over WiFi for lossless. I can't confirm with athority if CarPlay is lossless though. I'm just making assumptions that it piggy backs on AirPlay which transcodes everything to ALAC.

I will do some research.

Edit: found something. Page 57 of this document: https://devstreaming-cdn.apple.com/v...art_1.pdf?dl=1


So wired would still be better but not as extreme as BT vs wired.