Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[Randoman5]

Let me preface this by saying that I realize rotrex failures are probably much more rare than this forum would lead one to believe. Guys who have a rotrex on their only car what are you doing if the supercharger fails. What would need to be done to go back to NA temporarily other than replacing the airbox and reflashing? Do you also need to replace pulleys brackets etc?

I’m thinking you could probably buy a replacement rotrex and have it shipped or rent a car for 3 months.... or keep a spare.

I’m probably overthinking this but it would be a problem I had to solve in the short term and I’d like to have a plan. Also.... I’ve been stuck at home for a month not making the money I was planning to spend on a supercharger.

[steved]

Originally Posted by Jackson Racing

The Track Cooler kit was on our supercharged SCCA STU car, which was ran very hard and won a lot of races. Aftermarket header no cat. Oil temps never exceeded 260F, typically 240-250, and that is driving at the limit for 40min.

As long as you have the factory plastics installed so that the air ducts across the coolers properly and not out the bottom, you can run the Track Cooler kit with SC on 300hp cars no problem. I have personally tracked street and race cars with this setup A LOT.

-Oscar Jr.

vs

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Hood vents, and keeping or emulating/replicating the factory ducting is key!

So which is it..

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by steved

vs



So which is it..

Do you have a racecar trailered and towed to the track (Jackson's setup), or a street driven car? (my setup)


Overall, mine is more robust, but costs more. The only real difference between what I aside and what JR said is that I added hood vents.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Randoman5

Let me preface this by saying that I realize rotrex failures are probably much more rare than this forum would lead one to believe. Guys who have a rotrex on their only car what are you doing if the supercharger fails. What would need to be done to go back to NA temporarily other than replacing the airbox and reflashing? Do you also need to replace pulleys brackets etc?

I’m thinking you could probably buy a replacement rotrex and have it shipped or rent a car for 3 months.... or keep a spare.

I’m probably overthinking this but it would be a problem I had to solve in the short term and I’d like to have a plan. Also.... I’ve been stuck at home for a month not making the money I was planning to spend on a supercharger.

partially remove the SC kit and go NA; leave all the piping in place and plugged.

Or, cross-ship.

[steved]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you have a racecar trailered and towed to the track (Jackson's setup), or a street driven car? (my setup)


Overall, mine is more robust, but costs more. The only real difference between what I aside and what JR said is that I added hood vents.

If the all caps wasn't originally enough I'll add bold to emphasize my question:

Originally Posted by Jackson Racing

The Track Cooler kit was on our supercharged SCCA STU car, which was ran very hard and won a lot of races. Aftermarket header no cat. Oil temps never exceeded 260F, typically 240-250, and that is driving at the limit for 40min.

As long as you have the factory plastics installed so that the air ducts across the coolers properly and not out the bottom, you can run the Track Cooler kit with SC on 300hp cars no problem. I have personally tracked street and race cars with this setup A LOT.

-Oscar Jr.

If it's tested OK, why would the hood vent be necessary?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by steved

If the all caps wasn't originally enough I'll add bold to emphasize my question:


If it's tested OK, why would the hood vent be necessary?

300hp =/= 300whp, e.g a car on E85, vs the 100 octane that Jackson Racing uses on their STU car.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

300hp =/= 300whp, e.g a car on E85, vs the 100 octane that Jackson Racing uses on their STU car.

And your car is turbo, right? Turbo can lead to additional heating in the engine bay where hood vent can help. I am sure vent would be helpful with JRSC as well.

I think the tune is also an important part of engine heat. Do you have any comments on that?

[steved]

So here the question is focused on going from 200 to 300 hp. This would infer standard kit install, factory or diy tune should be pretty similar in power if all else is equal:

Originally Posted by mrg666

You are giving me ideas. But I am starting to feel tired of modding my car. I should resist.

Can we move on from this "my car is heating up" complaints? I am more interested in "how I cool my engine posts". We have increased power from 200 to 300 hp. Engine heating up on track is obviously expected. Tell us how you cool down.

But then hood vents are brought in, a product your company develops and markets:

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Hood vents, and keeping or emulating/replicating the factory ducting is key!

Even though JR specifically said the kit + track oil cooler tests OK:

Originally Posted by Jackson Racing

The Track Cooler kit was on our supercharged SCCA STU car, which was ran very hard and won a lot of races. Aftermarket header no cat. Oil temps never exceeded 260F, typically 240-250, and that is driving at the limit for 40min.

As long as you have the factory plastics installed so that the air ducts across the coolers properly and not out the bottom, you can run the Track Cooler kit with SC on 300hp cars no problem. I have personally tracked street and race cars with this setup A LOT.

-Oscar Jr.

And now we're talking about flex fuel..

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you have a racecar trailered and towed to the track (Jackson's setup), or a street driven car? (my setup)


Overall, mine is more robust, but costs more. The only real difference between what I aside and what JR said is that I added hood vents.

And I really hope we're not talking about turbos and heat in the JRSC thread:

Originally Posted by mrg666

And your car is turbo, right? Turbo can lead to additional heating in the engine bay where hood vent can help. I am sure vent would be helpful with JRSC as well.

I think the tune is also an important part of engine heat. Do you have any comments on that?

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by steved

So here the question is focused on going from 200 to 300 hp. This would infer standard kit install, factory or diy tune should be pretty similar in power if all else is equal:



But then hood vents are brought in, a product your company develops and markets:




Even though JR specifically said the kit + track oil cooler tests OK:



And now we're talking about flex fuel..



And I really hope we're not talking about turbos and heat in the JRSC thread:

Can you please clearly state what you want to say instead of these half-smart attempts of sarcasm? What is your point?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mrg666

And your car is turbo, right? Turbo can lead to additional heating in the engine bay where hood vent can help. I am sure vent would be helpful with JRSC as well.

I think the tune is also an important part of engine heat. Do you have any comments on that?

My car is turbo, makes 400+hp, and is still cooled on the stock radiator.

I also have a fully sealed cooling stack, large hood vents in the appropriate loaction, and a divorced oil cooler.

Apples and oranges, for the sake of cooling a JRSC setup.

Additional radiant heat in the engine bay has no effect on how well your radiator cools in a constant stream of air, but it can lead to having to heat shield things in the engine bay, lest they cool in proximity to hot exhaust piping that wasn't there in factory form. The supercharger is MUCH simpler in that sense.

In a drag race, my car isn't any faster than a JRSC car with similar output. I went turbo to take on the challenge of "you can't make a reliable turbo FA20 track car". Turns out you can; it just costs 2x more than a SC of the same output.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by steved

So here the question is focused on going from 200 to 300 hp. This would infer standard kit install, factory or diy tune should be pretty similar in power if all else is equal:



But then hood vents are brought in, a product your company develops and markets:




Even though JR specifically said the kit + track oil cooler tests OK:



And now we're talking about flex fuel..



And I really hope we're not talking about turbos and heat in the JRSC thread:

You don't seem to differentiate between track and street car, and the fact that Jackson Racing actually takes their own installation instructions and recommendations to heart. I can personally vouch that neither their race cars, nor street cars, overheat, even in the California desert.

Now, the racecar is obviously not a fair comparison, because it's got more development in it than the average street car, as does my personal (turbo) brz.


long story short: added power? add cooling. Don't delete factory provisions. Add cooling to be safe.

[WC-BRZ]

I don't understand the comments regarding factory cooling and ducting around the plastics...?

Is it possible to get some kind of guidance on this with pics without the front bumper or something?

Thanks everyone for all the awesome insights in here

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

I don't understand the comments regarding factory cooling and ducting around the plastics...?

Is it possible to get some kind of guidance on this with pics without the front bumper or something?

Thanks everyone for all the awesome insights in here

The stock car ducts everything to force air through your cooling stack, rather than having it go around the stack. Fluids (air in this case) go the path of least resistance. When the only path is through the cooling stack, it must go through the cooling stack.

Keep your stock parts, and trim only what is needed for intercooler piping.

[WC-BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The stock car ducts everything to force air through your cooling stack, rather than having it go around the stack. Fluids (air in this case) go the path of least resistance. When the only path is through the cooling stack, it must go through the cooling stack.

Keep your stock parts, and trim only what is needed for intercooler piping.

Great, thanks for the explanation.

I also once saw a pic of a JDL install where there was some foam installed around the front. It was a while back and I didn't even think of saving that pic.

What is the purpose of the foam installation like that around the front?