Wheel stud replacement - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Dave-ROR · 11-06-2012, 01:20 PM

This covers the replacement of the wheel studs and assumes you have access to a press. You can hammer out the old studs on the car and install using a lugnut and washers, but I have access to a press and wanted to document the "preferred" way of doing so.

Currently this covers the front studs, I'm waiting on the studs for the rear to be delivered.

Required parts:
-New Studs, either ARP or OEM:

-Comparison of OEM vs ARP:

1. Remove brakes:

2. Remove these 4 bolts (not the lower bolt joint bolt, but the four that hold the hub/bearing to the knuckle):

3. Remove ABS speed sensor:

4. Use base surface mounting area to support it on press blocks:

5. Use the special tool.. or sockets to support hub from moving/tilting:

6. Press out each stud, repeat for the next 4.

7. Clean surface a bit:

8. Put back in press as follows:

9. Press new studs in:

10. Reinstall hub, torque 4 hub/bearing carrier bolts to 48ft-lbs.

11. Reinstall speed sensor, torque speed sensor bolt to 5.5ft-lbs.

12. Reinstall brakes. Caliper bracket to knuckle bolts get torqued to 59ft-lbs.

Also tested the socket installation method instead of the press, but I messed it up. Easy to use a press. If you hammer them out and use washers it works, but I suggest the proper way

Example of messed up stud due to socket (too lazy to find large washers, washers should NOT do this):

Dave-ROR · 11-06-2012, 01:21 PM

Rear studs: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=43

Dave-ROR · 11-06-2012, 01:22 PM

Reserved for any additional expansion.

jdrxb9 · 11-06-2012, 01:35 PM

Nice write-up.

One alternative to both the press or the hammer is:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

I couldn't bring myself to beat on my nearly new hubs, so I used this tool to change out 2 studs with severely damaged threads. Did the install by the traditional nut and stack-of-washers method with no problems.

markitect · 11-06-2012, 01:58 PM

On a much older crappier car that had a broke stud I used the wheel and lugnut to get it back on, that way you don't need any washers. Simply hammer out half the studs at a time, then put the new studs in, and attach the wheel with the ones you aren't replacing, then put on the remaining lugnuts and pull the studs in place. Then take the wheel back off and replace the other half.

Dave-ROR · 11-06-2012, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markitect

On a much older crappier car that had a broke stud I used the wheel and lugnut to get it back on, that way you don't need any washers. Simply hammer out half the studs at a time, then put the new studs in, and attach the wheel with the ones you aren't replacing, then put on the remaining lugnuts and pull the studs in place. Then take the wheel back off and replace the other half.

That can scratch the hell out of the mating surface between the wheel and lugnut though, depends on how much you care I suppose

Rayme · 11-06-2012, 02:23 PM

Nice write up thanks.

Are these to install spacers? (the good way?)

Dave-ROR · 11-06-2012, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ottopilot

Nice write up thanks.

Are these to install spacers? (the good way?)

I installed them for a couple of reasons, spacers to clear the replacement front brakes was one of them. Also the studs are stronger than OEM and a few track guys have already had to replace some OEM ones. I try to use them on cars I track because they don't break as often (I've yet to have one break). they also make it easy to mount the wheel, they hold the wheel on much easier than the stock short studs, not a big deal if you use jackstands but annoying to have it on a lift and have to lift tire/wheel, hold it while grabbing lugnuts.

Hanakuso · 11-06-2012, 02:57 PM

Awesome. I was thinking of doing this but I had no idea. I'm probably going to go with stock length studs, that's if they make them

King Tut · 11-06-2012, 03:31 PM

Thanks for the DIY Dave. Looking forward to your write up for the rears.

Dave-ROR · 11-06-2012, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King Tut

Thanks for the DIY Dave. Looking forward to your write up for the rears.

I'm not.. lol

Evil86 · 11-09-2012, 09:23 AM

I don't have access to a press, but I did have a ballpeen. If done on the car, the hub has to rotated a bit to remove and replace the stud, but it is not a real pia.

My washer definitely didn't do what your socket did.

And now I know what kind of studs to use. The stock one are kinda sucky. I've broken three, two in the back and one in the front. I keep two spare just in case now.

Dave-ROR · 11-09-2012, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evil86

I don't have access to a press, but I did have a ballpeen. If done on the car, the hub has to rotated a bit to remove and replace the stud, but it is not a real pia.

My washer definitely didn't do what your socket did.

And now I know what kind of studs to use. The stock one are kinda sucky. I've broken three, two in the back and one in the front. I keep two spare just in case now.

Yeah the washers won't do it, I was just too lazy to go find washers to document that method

Probably easy enough to take the hub out of the car, use a vise (or anything else) and do the hammer method, space would be a lot more abundant that way.

cobrabyte · 11-09-2012, 09:49 PM

Regular lug nuts fit these things or do you need open-ended lug nuts?

11-06-2012, 01:20 PM	#1
Dave-ROR Site Moderator Join Date: Dec 2010 Drives: Stuff Location: Florida Posts: 10,317 Thanks: 955 Thanked 5,965 Times in 2,689 Posts Mentioned: 262 Post(s) Tagged: 8 Thread(s)	Wheel stud replacement This covers the replacement of the wheel studs and assumes you have access to a press. You can hammer out the old studs on the car and install using a lugnut and washers, but I have access to a press and wanted to document the "preferred" way of doing so. Currently this covers the front studs, I'm waiting on the studs for the rear to be delivered. Required parts: -New Studs, either ARP or OEM: -Comparison of OEM vs ARP: 1. Remove brakes: 2. Remove these 4 bolts (not the lower bolt joint bolt, but the four that hold the hub/bearing to the knuckle): 3. Remove ABS speed sensor: 4. Use base surface mounting area to support it on press blocks: 5. Use the special tool.. or sockets to support hub from moving/tilting: 6. Press out each stud, repeat for the next 4. 7. Clean surface a bit: 8. Put back in press as follows: 9. Press new studs in: 10. Reinstall hub, torque 4 hub/bearing carrier bolts to 48ft-lbs. 11. Reinstall speed sensor, torque speed sensor bolt to 5.5ft-lbs. 12. Reinstall brakes. Caliper bracket to knuckle bolts get torqued to 59ft-lbs. Also tested the socket installation method instead of the press, but I messed it up. Easy to use a press. If you hammer them out and use washers it works, but I suggest the proper way Example of messed up stud due to socket (too lazy to find large washers, washers should NOT do this): __________________ -Dave Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles

11-06-2012, 01:21 PM	#2
Dave-ROR Site Moderator Join Date: Dec 2010 Drives: Stuff Location: Florida Posts: 10,317 Thanks: 955 Thanked 5,965 Times in 2,689 Posts Mentioned: 262 Post(s) Tagged: 8 Thread(s)	Rear studs: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=43 __________________ -Dave Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles Last edited by Dave-ROR; 02-10-2014 at 03:43 PM.

11-06-2012, 01:22 PM	#3
Dave-ROR Site Moderator Join Date: Dec 2010 Drives: Stuff Location: Florida Posts: 10,317 Thanks: 955 Thanked 5,965 Times in 2,689 Posts Mentioned: 262 Post(s) Tagged: 8 Thread(s)	Reserved for any additional expansion. __________________ -Dave Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles

11-06-2012, 03:31 PM	#10
King Tut NASA SpecE30 Racer Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 2006 Honda S2000 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 7,279 Thanks: 607 Thanked 5,759 Times in 3,055 Posts Mentioned: 274 Post(s) Tagged: 10 Thread(s)	Thanks for the DIY Dave. Looking forward to your write up for the rears. __________________ - King Tut Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 \|\| Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 \|\| Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 \|\| 2013 Subaru BRZ \|\| 2012 Porsche Cayman R \|\| 2009 Chevrolet Z06 \|\| 2009 BMW M3 \|\| 2004 BMW M3 \|\| 2004 Nissan 350Z

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11-06-2012, 01:35 PM	#4
jdrxb9 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Drives: ND2, formerly BRZ (MT/CBS) Location: PA Posts: 200 Thanks: 27 Thanked 73 Times in 42 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Nice write-up. One alternative to both the press or the hammer is: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html I couldn't bring myself to beat on my nearly new hubs, so I used this tool to change out 2 studs with severely damaged threads. Did the install by the traditional nut and stack-of-washers method with no problems.

11-06-2012, 01:58 PM	#5
markitect Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Drives: Scion FRS Location: Michigan Posts: 216 Thanks: 17 Thanked 58 Times in 39 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	On a much older crappier car that had a broke stud I used the wheel and lugnut to get it back on, that way you don't need any washers. Simply hammer out half the studs at a time, then put the new studs in, and attach the wheel with the ones you aren't replacing, then put on the remaining lugnuts and pull the studs in place. Then take the wheel back off and replace the other half.

11-06-2012, 02:23 PM	#7
Rayme The Answer Join Date: Sep 2012 Drives: Mazda 2 Location: Moncton, NB Posts: 1,233 Thanks: 488 Thanked 661 Times in 315 Posts Mentioned: 6 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Nice write up thanks. Are these to install spacers? (the good way?)

11-06-2012, 02:57 PM	#9
Hanakuso Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Drives: FR-S Location: California Posts: 1,956 Thanks: 294 Thanked 673 Times in 390 Posts Mentioned: 11 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Awesome. I was thinking of doing this but I had no idea. I'm probably going to go with stock length studs, that's if they make them

11-09-2012, 09:23 AM	#12
Evil86 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Drives: Monkey-butt red FR-S Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 795 Thanks: 26 Thanked 184 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I don't have access to a press, but I did have a ballpeen. If done on the car, the hub has to rotated a bit to remove and replace the stud, but it is not a real pia. My washer definitely didn't do what your socket did. And now I know what kind of studs to use. The stock one are kinda sucky. I've broken three, two in the back and one in the front. I keep two spare just in case now.

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