Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Z06ZN6]

Your method seems reasonable. Maybe try running a vacuum line off your car to the actuator and have someone rev up the engine while you verify its opening smoothly and fullly through a few cycles?

[rixon]

Has anyone tried using studs to act as alignment tool and then

install the normal hardware? It seems like if would prevent sliding
the manifold around when installing. It looks like the bolts are vertical
not at an angle so it seems this would work.

[Z06ZN6]

Originally Posted by rixon

Has anyone tried using studs to act as alignment tool and then

install the normal hardware? It seems like if would prevent sliding
the manifold around when installing. It looks like the bolts are vertical
not at an angle so it seems this would work.

Hi Rixon, that could be helpful to prevent having to slide the manifold around to align it, pre-aligning on the studs before resting its weight on the gaskets. Thats what killed my first set of gaskets as they pulled out of the groove during sliding described in the instructions and got squashed and sliced when I torqued the bolts down. After a few installs, I really found no reason to have to slide the manifold around to gain access to the rear coolant hoses as the instructions stated, so I just zip tie all the hoses and harnesses away from the top-down installation path and put the manifold precisely in place. I then immediately torque it down. Studs would be helpful, but not really necessary.

[BR-ZED]

Well, the bypass valve is installed. Now am waiting for some issues with my license to be resolved prior to starting the actual install.

Regarding the bypass install, I did what I listed above, with the feeler gauge and set screw. However, there were a few surprises:

1. The "hardest" part was taking the old one off. The 3 locking nylon nuts on the bypass itself would not come off. It seemed as though maybe they were stripped from whomever installed the bypass? Because only 1 came off; the other 2 spun but did not back off. Not sure... fortunately i was able to pull the b bypass + bracket off as one piece.

2. I determined the full "open" position by eyeballing when the blade was perpendicular to the bore. I set the bracket, tightened it down, then backed out each bolt one at a time and applied a small amount of threadlocker (per Tony's suggestion).

3. I used my method of adjusting the bypass.

I took a few videos I plan to upload to youtube.

My only concern is that when the bypass is subjected to vacuum, it opens, and the lever touches the little "bubble" on the bracket as it comes to the fully actuated position. It is hard to tell if it is stopping before the point of full actuation or not. If it was physically stopping before the valve is fully actuated, I could see that putting some stress on the valve long-term. But if it is stopping before full actuation it is only very, very slight, as the lever touches the "bubble"just as the blade is fully open in the bore. So it would only be on the order of millimeters in terms of the difference.

It seemed that from the factory the bore was potentially open a little less than I currently have it. So am contemplating loosening everything up and shifting the whole bracket forward (thereby avoiding contact between the lever and the bubble on the bracket) but not having the bore as "open" when subjected to vacuum.

Probably over thinking this....

Edited. Here's what it looks like in action with vacuum drawn and released. First one is bypass, second is blade.

As it draws the bypass open you can hear a click as the rod contacts the bump on the bracket. This is really close to the point at which it is actuated completely (shortest position of the rod).

[BirdTRD]

So I have the second TMAP sensor installed and wired temporarily, need to shorten the new wiring harness, remove the D-box harness and clean it up a bit.
Seems to be operating normally so I took a short drive and grabbed a log if someone wants to have a look. https://datazap.me/u/birdtrd/separat...r?log=0&data=7
I'll put together a list of materials I used to put everything together and where I got them if anyone is interested. For the wiring I basically took a 4 pin extension harness and spliced the appropriate wires from a 4 pin pigtail for the second TMAP which only provides MAP signal and the original in runner TMAP provides IAT.

[BR-ZED]

So first full day of my install. Taking my time. I'm impressed some of you can do this in 6 to 8 hours. I'm about a full day in and am probably less than half way done. But I'm taking my time and labeling everything as I go, also had a few things not go right that led to me taking a few detours.

I've tried now 3 days in a row to get a hold of Tony at Edlebrock, with no luck. They have less people working because of Covid and no one can answer supercharger questions except for him.

So here's my concerns so far:

When relocating my clutch banjo bolt, I foolishly didn't gave my torque wrench ready. But then realized I didn't gave a 1/4" 14mm socket for my inch lb. Torque wrench. So i went to get my other torque wrench. But that was locked in the trunk.... but couldn't open the trunk since the battery is disconnected.... tried to go through the back but my seats closed over the release strap. Tried to get in with the key but it didn't open. Tried the back seats again, no luck, lost a shoe, then finally got in the back with the key with the help of a pliers. Got the torque wrench and finally torqued it. But that entire time it wasn't as tight as I thought it was and leaked a bunch.

Reservoir is now empty, below min.

When I torqued the line, it rotated with the wrench. It is now at an angle, pointed to the front of the car. Part of me thought this is good, because it gives more clearance for the bleeder valve to release (because the gap between the heater hose and the clutch line makes it tough to rotate a wrench to bleed the clutch.

So my questions (hopefully someone here can help)

1. Will the angle its at now be ok clearance wise for the supercharger? See pics below.
2. Can you still bleed the clutch with the supercharger on, or do you need to remove it? If so that sucks.....
3. Any issues with the fact I let the fluid go down so low?

I have not bled it yet because I didn't have an 8mm wrench in my set. Doh!

4. Also, the fuel banjo fitting (that connects to the fuel pump) was impossible to torque with my torque wrench because of clearance. So I tightened by feel. Does that line easily leak if not torqued enough or should I be ok there? It felt pretty tight. Didn't want to over torque it though.

[Z06ZN6]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

So first full day of my install. Taking my time. I'm impressed some of you can do this in 6 to 8 hours. I'm about a full day in and am probably less than half way done. But I'm taking my time and labeling everything as I go, also had a few things not go right that led to me taking a few detours.

I've tried now 3 days in a row to get a hold of Tony at Edlebrock, with no luck. They have less people working because of Covid and no one can answer supercharger questions except for him.

So here's my concerns so far:

When relocating my clutch banjo bolt, I foolishly didn't gave my torque wrench ready. But then realized I didn't gave a 1/4" 14mm socket for my inch lb. Torque wrench. So i went to get my other torque wrench. But that was locked in the trunk.... but couldn't open the trunk since the battery is disconnected.... tried to go through the back but my seats closed over the release strap. Tried to get in with the key but it didn't open. Tried the back seats again, no luck, lost a shoe, then finally got in the back with the key with the help of a pliers. Got the torque wrench and finally torqued it. But that entire time it wasn't as tight as I thought it was and leaked a bunch.

Reservoir is now empty, below min.

When I torqued the line, it rotated with the wrench. It is now at an angle, pointed to the front of the car. Part of me thought this is good, because it gives more clearance for the bleeder valve to release (because the gap between the heater hose and the clutch line makes it tough to rotate a wrench to bleed the clutch.

So my questions (hopefully someone here can help)

1. Will the angle its at now be ok clearance wise for the supercharger? See pics below.
2. Can you still bleed the clutch with the supercharger on, or do you need to remove it? If so that sucks.....
3. Any issues with the fact I let the fluid go down so low?

I have not bled it yet because I didn't have an 8mm wrench in my set. Doh!

4. Also, the fuel banjo fitting (that connects to the fuel pump) was impossible to torque with my torque wrench because of clearance. So I tightened by feel. Does that line easily leak if not torqued enough or should I be ok there? It felt pretty tight. Didn't want to over torque it though.

Be careful with the Edelbrock supplied crush washers on the fuel line banjo bolts. Others in this thread, including myself, have had small leaks with the supplied washers. The aluminum washer surfaces don't seem to seal well or crush much no matter how much you crank on it and can result in very fine leaks that are barely noticeable. I could feel a very light spray coming out of my install under the banjo and I have been doing brake banjos and similar without issue for 30 years. Never been a fan of solid aluminum crush washers. Some people have sanded them down a bit successfully but that wasnt for me. I replaced them immediately with used copper washers I had laying around and had no problem sealing at all with the same, good hand torque. I ordered and switched to the OEM seal (because OEM seals are usually the best) but I could have left the used copper ones in there indefinitely.
Yeah, I just used a box wrench to tighten them as its easier to access with. I gave them a good tighten. Been doing that for decades.

I'll let the MT people answer your MT fitment q's. If the resorvoir is below min, but you can still see fluid, your fine. Not sure what the 86 resorvoir config is but there is likely a hose under it with fluid in it too, so as long as you have a head of fluid above the cylinder you are fine. Once you drain below the cylinder, air gets in. If the resorvoir is dry and there's a hose underneath, try pinching it along the length to see if fluid comes up into the resorvoir.

[Z06ZN6]

Yeah, I took my time too. When I was in my teens I would have rammed it on in 5.8 hours flat, but now in my mid-40's I prefer to do things slowly and without shortcut. I find I get far cleaner installs, with fewer issues, rework or cursing. Thankfully I have a spare car to drive so I can take my time. No offense meant to those that need to get it on in a day so they can get to work the next.

[Pgh_Area]

I ran into a similar problem doing the clutch line relocation. You will need to bleed the clutch if you reservoir is empty. Do it before you install the S/C. You could use a vacuum pump, but IMHO having someone pump the clutch and giving you feedback is better.
I would definitely turn the clutch line in the direction the the manual states.

[BR-ZED]

Ugh. So looks like I'll need to get new crush washers to fix that, unless someone disagrees about the clearance issue. Hopefully the dealership stocks them. I'll wait to see if my fuel line leaks before I pull that one off.

I guess it depends too. The way I have it clocked would make it easier to service if you can get your hand in there after the supercharger is in place. Can you? I looked at pictures but can't tell. It looks tight. :-(

[BirdTRD]

As long as the hose isn't kinked or stressed the way you have it, it will be fine. Honestly, I don't think it would cause any service issues the way it's shown in the Edelbrock install (directly in line with the bleeder valve). To bleed it, you would attach a hose to it and just be cracking the valve open and closed during the process and probably never touch it again.

[aKaGorganZola]

Originally Posted by Z06ZN6

Awesome. Good luck with your order and install!

If I could recommend anything to go with this great kit, it would be a tune from Bill and Nazar at Delicious Tuning...

Yep that was my plan. When I decided on the Edelbrock I read through this entire thread to just be up to speed on it and seeing how much time and effort Bill and delicious out into helping customers and refining the tune made it an easy choice. I'll be ordering their ff and tune kit so I expect it'll be all up to date. To be safe I planned on calling them to double check that everything is the most recent spec and get a feel from them what to expect from the tuning process. Hopefully this east coast heat wave let's up by then

[BirdTRD]

Just discovered a very small leak in my bypass valve (old style). I ordered the new style a couple months ago anticipating it's replacement, now just have to find time (and motivation) to pull off the SC.

[Kellhound]

So I have a silly request. Been researching how to increase the Edelbrock SC whine on for the BRZ. Not that putting 340 ponies to the wheels isn't enough... I just want to warn the Mustang GT gang that im not stock as to give them a chance to not embarrass themselves whilst riding their girlfriends. Ive read that our intakes may be reducing the sound or that alternate pulleys my be a way to increase the noise.

Not looking to pipe the sound into the cabin with a tube. Just something you can hear from the car next to you. 8)