No Communication!! ECU/ECM/PCM/BCM

[RZNT4R]

Originally Posted by Glock_86

For one I did not just throw parts at the car.

Originally Posted by Glock_86

...so i decided to just get a new battery (needed a new one anyhow... ...but still would not start my car. [...] So i went to autozone and got a brand new starter. After installing the new starter, i attempted to start the car again... nothing happened... ...I replaced [the ignition switch] and nothing happened.

I think my assessment is on point.

I think you threw parts at a car that has a bad ground.

Even now, you're tearing into the Main Body ECU... For what reason? Someone on the internet told you? That's a terrible reason, what logical flow led you to that component? What test did you do? What role does that component play in the starting system, and are the symptoms you see, the measurements you take, even compatible with that conclusion?

[Glock_86]

Alright, well I’ll take your “advice” and look for these bad grounds you speak of... I wouldn’t know what would be a bad ground since the only things that were replaced were the battery and starter... that clearly needed to be replaced because I bench tested both of these items. “Not throwing parts at the vehicle” I understand your trying to make a point.

[Glock_86]

I should just give this car to you so you can professional diagnose the issue. The reason I’m coming on here is to ask question, see if people are willing to help me with finding out the issue, and go from there... not to see a meaningless comment that is harassing me about the way I’m going about diagnosing the issue at hand. You could atleast give some tips but of course what can I expect out of a forum... like come on...

[RZNT4R]

Look, make it easy. do you have booster cables?

If yes, just put the black clamp on the engine block and the other black clamp directly on the battery negative, that's a simple test anyone can do, and a starter clicking on but not turning the engine over is a very good hint.

Cars typically don't have 5 things go wrong at once unless you drink 5 red bulls and start poking things with a screwdriver. The dash flickering was hint 1, you changed the battery and it stopped flickering, you touched or moved something, but the ground was still resistive, the starter was clicking on but not turning the engine over, that was hint 2, you started changing stuff willy nilly like the ignition switch and poking at the main body ECU which isn't involved in the starting system (according to the OEM wiring diagram in front of me now). 4 things going wrong at once is hint #12825 that you're on the wrong track.

That the dealer tried to throw parts at it is expected, it's a dealer, THEY SUCK SHIT at diagnostic, even more when it's caused by human intervention. You never EVER bring a car in for diagnostics at the dealer unless you know that poor helpless tech has a TSB or recall to steer him right, because without that, they throw parts at problem.

Oh, also, never check a strting system with a voltmeter. It's a high amp circuit, even a bad ground will show 12V on a voltmeter. The GOOD way to check high amp circuits is with a 55W headlight bulb as a test lamp. A bad frame ground on a GMC Savana won't let the fuel pump run, it happens all the time. a voltmeter will show 12V in the pump connector, a regular test light will light up bright as day, but the truck won't run. You have to load a circuit to find out the truth.

[soundman98]

ok, i'll play nice.

where's your amp ground located?

[Glock_86]

Okay tomorrow I’m going to look at grounds. May have something to do with my starter negative wire that mounts into my engine.

[Lantanafrs2]

Relay?

[Glock_86]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

Relay?

Could be gunna check tomorrow

[vladniko86]

I had the same thing on a civic just today, ended up needing to tighten the positive on my starter and the ground cable that goes from battery to body

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by vladniko86

I had the same thing on a civic just today, ended up needing to tighten the positive on my starter and the ground cable that goes from battery to body

exactly why i asked where his sub amp ground is..

but he's too busy dodging the questions.

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by soundman98

exactly why i asked where his sub amp ground is..

but he's too busy dodging the questions.

I think I would be more interested in finding out where he connected his +12V power wire for his amplifier that he installed and how he ran it from the engine bay through the firewall and back to the trunk. This bit of information would tell me a lot.

Maybe he can post some pictures of his electrical connections?

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

I think I would be more interested in finding out where he connected his +12V power wire for his amplifier that he installed and how he ran it from the engine bay through the firewall and back to the trunk. This bit of information would tell me a lot.

Maybe he can post some pictures of his electrical connections?

agreed.

but when he posts a massive block of text and starts throwing parts at it, it's best to start simply.

[Glock_86]

yeah you right soundman! block quotes are annoying. And i understand where you guys are coming from.
I fixed my problem. Turns out half the ECU was fried. Replaced it with a new one yesterday and got techstream, so i registered the VIN. Everything works now. Thank you for "some" of your guy's help!
"the symptoms you see, the measurements you take, even compatible with that conclusion?" lol!

[vladniko86]

Originally Posted by Glock_86

yeah you right soundman! block quotes are annoying. And i understand where you guys are coming from.
I fixed my problem. Turns out half the ECU was fried. Replaced it with a new one yesterday and got techstream, so i registered the VIN. Everything works now. Thank you for "some" of your guy's help!
"the symptoms you see, the measurements you take, even compatible with that conclusion?" lol!

That's wild. How the hell did you fry half of it jeez


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