Camber options.

[yzf219]

So I double checked my bolts and I'm pretty sure they are installed correctly. I marked the bolt head to show where the lobe is. I referenced the SPC instructions and they seem to be installed correctly can anyone please verify. My bolts aren't SPC they are DORMAN bolts but the theory is the same. Thanks

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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Just a "lets butcher a base sedan Civic to make it cool" reference. Was not intended to be accurate nor truthful.

Mustang factory service manual has instructions for slotting the struts to gain camber.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/thr...uctions.54909/

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Mustang factory service manual has instructions for slotting the struts to gain camber.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/thr...uctions.54909/

This is NOT a Mustang.

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Mustang factory service manual has instructions for slotting the struts to gain camber.



https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/thr...uctions.54909/

My old E46 was factory slotted at the top mounts. And I see plenty of autocrossers slot top mounts/struts.



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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Let me know what your specs are



Tire size

Wheel width

Wheel offset

I'll tell you what you can get away with

I just might take you up on that offer.

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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

This is NOT a Mustang.

You're right it's a scion and new struts are cheap. Some of them, like konis come with enlarged holes for more camber off the shelf already.

Originally Posted by yzf219

My old E46 was factory slotted at the top mounts. And I see plenty of autocrossers slot top mounts/struts.



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Slotting strut towers diy is less common, the drift guys do it but they fuck with geometry more. The tenth gen civic has slotted strut towers for camber.

You certainly could slot the strut, but you shouldn't have to with your goals. Grab another pair of camber bolts and go to a good alignment shop. More then that bite the bullet and get camber plates/coilovers, you'll want them to be competitive in class at autox anyway.

Edit reread your op, top hat is centered in the hole, you'd have to hack up the whole hole to do that. Don't do that. Don't hack up your strut towers, totally unnecessary.

[HaXx]

Originally Posted by yzf219

So I double checked my bolts and I'm pretty sure they are installed correctly. I marked the bolt head to show where the lobe is. I referenced the SPC instructions and they seem to be installed correctly can anyone please verify. My bolts aren't SPC they are DORMAN bolts but the theory is the same. Thanks
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Heres what i would have you do

keep the bottom oem bolt in the bottom hole, and put the camber bolt up top and push the top of the wheel in.

I have learned a fair amount about how people run double digit camber. while we are idiots, we're not stupid. they ALWAYS anchor the bottom hole with the bottom oem bolt. you dont want 2 sketchy connections. people running big camber will get their adjustment from the top hole, either slotting inward, or in your case with a camber bolt, but the bottom hole is ALWAYS oem, that is the anchor that we dont mass with.(im not going to bring up FLCA in this thread)

i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.

many people do many different things, different bolts in different holes, but i recommend having the bottom be your anchor. hey, im not a fan of slotting struts either, thats why i got the onimade camber plates.

with the oem bottom bolt in the bottom hole, and an eccentric bolt up top, that will give you camber that is appropriate for the ability of most track enthusiasts.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by HaXx

i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.

This is how the scca official ssc class gets their desired -3 degrees of camber but they use koni yellows that have an enlarged upper hole to help.

[HaXx]

im just going to go ahead and say for the record

dont slot your struts please

even big camber boys bash people for doing it the hack way, and boast having setups that are achieved properly by complete adjustable arms setups, namely raxerx fab.

ie: "are you on slotted struts?"
- "lol, nah bro, racerx everything"

subjective aside, it is objectively hard to pull off fender to lip static fitment on 50k+ springs. its not even about how it looks, its the fact that they are able to do it, and the work that went into it that is impressive. i mean, drop your car 4 inches and tell me if you are able to drive it.

[yzf219]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Let me know what your specs are



Tire size

Wheel width

Wheel offset

I'll tell you what you can get away with

Hey thanks again for the offer I managed to obtain more camber and have pretty much maxed the clearance out between the spring perch and tire. I can only fit a credit card in between. So I won't be requiring your expertise.

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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by finch1750

find a different alignment shop. You should be able to get -2.5 from that set-up, or at least very close to it.



I dont believe option 1 will benefit any more than current. Option 2 could but I don't think it's necessary. I dont know that I would cut my strut tower in any way like Option 3

You sniped it man, I loosened all the suspension bolts and the strut mount, then I lowered the car on a piece of 2x4 placed on the outer edge of the tire to max out the slack. I got EXACTLY -2.5. Thanks a ton!

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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by HaXx

Heres what i would have you do



keep the bottom oem bolt in the bottom hole, and put the camber bolt up top and push the top of the wheel in.



I have learned a fair amount about how people run double digit camber. while we are idiots, we're not stupid. they ALWAYS anchor the bottom hole with the bottom oem bolt. you dont want 2 sketchy connections. people running big camber will get their adjustment from the top hole, either slotting inward, or in your case with a camber bolt, but the bottom hole is ALWAYS oem, that is the anchor that we dont mass with.(im not going to bring up FLCA in this thread)



i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.



many people do many different things, different bolts in different holes, but i recommend having the bottom be your anchor. hey, im not a fan of slotting struts either, thats why i got the onimade camber plates.



with the oem bottom bolt in the bottom hole, and an eccentric bolt up top, that will give you camber that is appropriate for the ability of most track enthusiasts.

Thanks! I managed to get the camber I wanted with one OEM bolt and one camber bolt, albeit with the camber bolt at the bottom. Probably not as safe as what you suggested but I'm happy I was able to keep one OEM bolt.

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[yzf219]

Originally Posted by HaXx

im just going to go ahead and say for the record



dont slot your struts please



even big camber boys bash people for doing it the hack way, and boast having setups that are achieved properly by complete adjustable arms setups, namely raxerx fab.



ie: "are you on slotted struts?"

- "lol, nah bro, racerx everything"



subjective aside, it is objectively hard to pull off fender to lip static fitment on 50k+ springs. its not even about how it looks, its the fact that they are able to do it, and the work that went into it that is impressive. i mean, drop your car 4 inches and tell me if you are able to drive it.

Can't even imagine what a stiff spring rate would feel like. Yikes.

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[TommyW]

Originally Posted by yzf219

Hey thanks again for the offer I managed to obtain more camber and have pretty much maxed the clearance out between the spring perch and tire. I can only fit a credit card in between. So I won't be requiring your expertise.

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that is probably too close once the tire starts moving around a bit in turns. You'll most likely rub. Depending on wheel with\tire width relationship and tire pressure those factors will make a difference on tire squirm. You'll most likely end up needing 5mm spacers.